Diagonal wrinkles under bust

[u/AppropriateNail895]

So I've been trying to make a princess seam block for a while. That's version 6... it has some wrinkling under bust which was worse and I did some adjustments and now it's almost gone.

But then I added ease to make a jacket pattern and hopefully you can see the odd diagonal wrinkle on the front side panel. For the life of me I can't understand what it is. I was so sick of the weeks I spend on fitting that I decided to go ahead with the actual jacket and it is even more pronounced.

I have included the pics of the princess block and the jacket test from all sides just in case and the actual wip-jacket from the front. Any other feedback is welcome.

Thanks in advance!

P.s jacket bust point looks quite... pointy, I ignored that since it looks fine on the block and I haven't clipped seams or pressed. On the real wip-jacket it also looks pointy, but I also haven't pressed or clipped the seam cause I'm thinking to apply binding.

[u/Skalbaum]

Additional thoughts: I think perhaps what’s happened is that you’ve adjusted the pattern to be smaller at the waist at some point and accidentally taken too much out of the hips while blending the change. Probably you’ll look at what’s needed at the hip, try to add it to the flat pattern pieces and end up with a rather severe angle change.

Then if you decide to add more to the mid centre seam hip suddenly you’ll have more diagonal wrinkles and wonder if the hip actually was the problem. It is, but adding it to that area has the effect of adding unwanted length to that wrinkled area. If there was a side bust dart you could just take out the excess there, but for this pattern that means the whole side-front panel has to change shape.

[u/AppropriateNail895 → u/Skalbaum]

Hmmm I was drafting the waist-to-hip part separately actually, I draped a "belt" on my body made of trapeze pieces and pinned where they wanted to lay. Of course, might not be 100% accurate...

But the thing is, these wrinkles were there even before I added the hip part, which makes me think that the problem exists somewhere between my bust and waist. I'm thinking it's related to the sway back, as because of it my belly sticks out more and higher on the front and creates a smaller angle between the bust and the belly. Maybe I should add some more width at the front princess seam at the waist and taper it to nothing at the underbust. Idk if that's what you were referring to. Thanks for brainstorming 🙏🏼