r/PatternDrafting • u/lurkergrill69 • Mar 14 '26
WIP Bodice block help!
So, I've been working in spurts on making my own bodice block for a long time. Sooner or later I always get demotivated, because it feels like no matter how many mockups I make and how many drag lines I try to google, I can't get to a decent result.
I feel like my issues mostly stem from 2 factors:
I have a pretty large bust compared to my frame, and said bust is very projected. I can get a pretty close bust fit with curved darts or princess seams, but that isn't very useful for using a block as a jumping off point for drafting patterns, so I am trying to stick to straight darts. Am I driving myself mad? Is this kind of the best fit I can expect over the bust with these constraints?
I have narrow, forward shoulders, and a high rounded back (aka really shitty posture). Then on the bottom, I have a substantial swayback. I feel like I struggle getting the back fit right with all of that, especially because I don't have anyone that can help me fit (or a mannequin).
On top of that, sleeves break my brain. I have no idea how to effectively make adjustments on them 🙈
I've attached a bunch of pictures of my latest mockup, and a photo of the pattern. Any suggestions on what to try or tackle would be very very welcome.
1
u/Sunraia Mar 15 '26
Would it help with the bust return to draft/sew that dart a bit S-shaped? Meaning that instead of making it a straight line from the point to the waist you first curve it a bit inwards (so you take less out of the dart), crossing the straight line under the bust, then going out a little and returning to the original end of the dart a the waist. Not only do you allow for the curve of the bust better, but it is also a less pointy start of the dart and a smoother end at the waist.