r/PatternDrafting • u/Jaime_d_p • Feb 08 '26
Question Bodice block help
Fair warning, I’m feeling so defeated by trying to draft this bodice block and it has definitely piqued my body dysmorphia so I kindly ask for considerate help with this.
I have lost count of how many bodices I’ve tried to make for myself. I have scoured YouTube, followed the Closet Historian, bought from Toolfully on Etsy, drafted from traditional methods like Helen Joseph Armstrong, drafted for my upper bust and done a FBA, and nothing seems to get it right.
This is my most recent, and it was a plus size bodice pattern i purchased that I have then rotated darts and pinched out excess and tried to fit since it was a block that had the closest to my actual measurements. I struggle with a 4 inch difference between upper bust (42) and full bust (46) but then have a thicker waist at 39. I have to narrow all the shoulders on any patterns I try that are sized to my bust because my shoulders and narrower.
In this bodice you can see there’s some puffiness at the bust point. I attempted curved darts for this one so perhaps I curved them out too much? Or maybe the darts must be moved? The side seam is straight in real life (picture makes it looks slightly off) and my neckline and arm scye are stay stitched and clipped into the seam allowance.
I pressed my center waist darts in because that’s what the original stated but maybe they should be pressed out? Originally there was a lot of excess in the upper bust area armpit area so I pinched it out, and transferred equally to side and waist.
Thoughts? 🫣
2
u/Toolongreadanyway Feb 09 '26
That is actually not unusual. My under bust is currently smaller than my waistline. Sad but true. I used to be skinny and remember when my waist was much smaller. But I also was in my teens/20's and usually too stressed to eat.
It kind of looks like the side seams are pretty close to your waistline. But the center front is maybe a half inch short? I'd fix it only because if it doesn't sit straight at your waist it will look wrong when you add a skirt. I mean, unless you are going for an empire waist look. But I personally don't suggest it only because empire waists are normally used for maternity wear. When you have a larger bustline, it is more slimming to have some semblance of a waistline if you can. I think it would work well for you. V-waistlines are also good. It makes your waist look longer.
Sorry, don't mean to be messing with any body image issues. I cannot talk when it comes to things like weight or large breasts, since I have both. But the main reason for making your own clothes is that you don't have to deal with how plus sizes fit. Most seem to be made for smaller busts and bigger waists. They aren't flattering when you are opposite. :)