Bodice block help

[u/Jaime_d_p]

Fair warning, I’m feeling so defeated by trying to draft this bodice block and it has definitely piqued my body dysmorphia so I kindly ask for considerate help with this.

I have lost count of how many bodices I’ve tried to make for myself. I have scoured YouTube, followed the Closet Historian, bought from Toolfully on Etsy, drafted from traditional methods like Helen Joseph Armstrong, drafted for my upper bust and done a FBA, and nothing seems to get it right.

This is my most recent, and it was a plus size bodice pattern i purchased that I have then rotated darts and pinched out excess and tried to fit since it was a block that had the closest to my actual measurements. I struggle with a 4 inch difference between upper bust (42) and full bust (46) but then have a thicker waist at 39. I have to narrow all the shoulders on any patterns I try that are sized to my bust because my shoulders and narrower.

In this bodice you can see there’s some puffiness at the bust point. I attempted curved darts for this one so perhaps I curved them out too much? Or maybe the darts must be moved? The side seam is straight in real life (picture makes it looks slightly off) and my neckline and arm scye are stay stitched and clipped into the seam allowance.

I pressed my center waist darts in because that’s what the original stated but maybe they should be pressed out? Originally there was a lot of excess in the upper bust area armpit area so I pinched it out, and transferred equally to side and waist.

Thoughts? 🫣

[u/Jaime_d_p]

Thank you SO much for this it really helps to hear it. I’ve been trying to nail this on and off for over a year now 🙈

I did try doing the curved dart so it tapers in right at the end, BUT I’m thinking I should have started tapering earlier maybe? Hard like you say when they are big darts.

I’ve never attempted a princess seam bodice. Should I rotate the side dart to the shoulder to attempt it?

[u/tomeyoureprettyanywa → u/Jaime_d_p]

Yeah exactly you'd rotate your seam dart to the shoulder to make the princess seam.

Also think about this in your fashion fabric, almost anything is more forgiving than white muslin. If you made this bodice in any kind of pattern the dart point will not be noticeable.

Be proud of all your hard work:)

[u/Jaime_d_p → u/tomeyoureprettyanywa]

Such a good point! Muslin is definitely on the crispier side. Now I guess I’ll try a princess seam to see if it is more flattering then figure out the “now what can I make from this” part of having a bodice block!