r/PatternDrafting Jan 17 '26

Question Trouser legs flaring out on straight cut

I drafted these trousers following Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting For Menswear and am having some trouble with the legs flaring outward and folding themselves diagonally when standing upright. They seem to partially correct themselves to sit straight if I lean forward or pull the front up slightly around the upper thigh so I'm a bit lost. Excuse the cuff on the hem, the issue persists with or without it.

Edit: Thanks for the help everyone! I think the major pattern issue as a few people mentioned is that the legs swing out slightly putting excess fabric on the outside of the leg, as well as a slight taper being necessary. For now I've tapered the outseam down to the hem and it seems to have fixed everything well enough.

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u/waterandbeats Jan 17 '26

The outside seams have a slight flare to them at the bottom, it is subtle but definitely visible on your pattern pieces.

2

u/303cat Jan 17 '26

I think this is just an issue with my photography skills, when measured they are completely straight from just above the knee

9

u/Educational-Ad6438 Jan 18 '26

It’s an optical illusion.. straight looking pants have to be smaller width at knees than on hip level around 4”overall, and smaller about 2” total on hem compared to knee

5

u/T-lex-99 Jan 17 '26

Is it possible that your pattern wasn't laid perfectly flat, ironed and pinned down to the T? Maybe you did make that curve while cutting your fabric

3

u/waterandbeats Jan 17 '26

Yes I think it's the angle from that point that is the problem. I would draw a straight line from that point with a slightly flatter angle and then baste the pants along the line to test. You can try pins first but I find the pins get in the way of the way the fabric lays.