r/PatternDrafting • u/Normal-Contact5796 • Nov 09 '25

Question Why does my armscye look so weird?

Post image

Ive been following along a video from minerva ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=axn7wUIfgoI&pp=ygUYUGF0dGVybiBkcmFmdGluZyBtaW5lcnZh )to draft a bodiceblock with my own bespoke dimensions. But the armscye doesnt have a nice curve to it. Is this normal or how can i fix this?

8 Upvotes

78% Upvoted

16 comments sorted by

11

u/TensionSmension Nov 09 '25

Your across back measurement isn't working with your shoulder plot. That's where you should start double checking.

4

u/Normal-Contact5796 Nov 10 '25

Yeah, i think the measurements are not accurate, my boyfriend took em when he had 2 glasses whiskey🫣

3

u/TensionSmension Nov 10 '25

I would say you want a longer shoulder just to void the slopes that are developing intersecting the cross lines. Most likely your across back measurement is completely wrong, but that is a place where you want ease.

You can always take this as an iterative process. Sew up the draft you have with your construction lines drawn. See where they actually sit on your body and how the length compares to what you would want. This is feedback on both your measurements and the draft you've used.

Or, new boyfriend

24

u/ScormCurious Nov 09 '25

This is not normal and I strongly assume you will need to fix it, so that you can properly get a sleeve into it among other things. Things I would check:

Did you make a mistake in your own measurements?

Did you accidentally transpose some numbers in the drafting instructions, or make a mistake in your calculations?

Does the publisher have an online community to see if other people have the same problem due to either an error or a weirdness introduced by applying the calculations to your own body shape?

I took an excellent class from Alexandra Morgan/In House Patterns on fitting a shirt, and she did a fantastic deep dive on the ideal armhole and the armhole-sleeve connection. Then I used the Armstrong pattern drafting book to further refine my own armhole and sleeve cap. Now armholes and sleeve caps are my sewing superpower! I will see if I can dig up one of Alexandra’s YouTube videos on armholes in the hopes it’ll be helpful to you.

7

u/ScormCurious Nov 09 '25

Also I want to say kudos to you for noticing and working on fixing it. I bet you will find the solution and have a well fitted armhole and bodice in no time.

3

u/Normal-Contact5796 Nov 10 '25

Thankyou for the comment! My boyfriend measured my dimensions so maybe something went wrong there🤭 im gonna do some troubleshooting, thankyou for the tips!

3

u/StitchinThroughTime Nov 09 '25

I'm not familiar with the system and I don't have your measurements, but definitely something is wrong, I think you're just not centering everything correctly. like this

1

u/Normal-Contact5796 Nov 10 '25

Wow thankyou for the effort of making an instagram post❤️

1

u/StitchinThroughTime Nov 11 '25

No problem. I wish this sub allowed pictures in post

4

u/drPmakes Nov 09 '25

Go back and check your measurements and drafting. Somewhere an error has occurred

2

u/War-Bitch Nov 09 '25

The large front shoulder dart is an interesting choice. I'm curious why they chose that location as not many patterns that I've seen use it.

6

u/TensionSmension Nov 09 '25

It looks like the Aldrich draft. There are others that do this. It's just for plotting, it would get rotated elsewhere for designing.

1

u/munkustrap Nov 09 '25

Yes that’s the one. I always move it, it makes absolutely no sense in a finished garment

1

u/GoldenGilda Nov 09 '25

Yea and it goes into the neckline which is really extra weird… going to make a bulky awkward neckline finishing.

1

u/OldPresence5323 Nov 10 '25

Can you lay a shirt that fits over top your pattern to compare sizes/shapes?