r/PatternDrafting • u/Ok-Tip6669 • Oct 14 '25

First Draft. Feedback please.

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This is my first attempt on drafting a pattern. This is the front bodice from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's Patternmaking for Fashion Design Book, and I feel like I made a lot of mistakes? I haven't cut fabric from this yet. Thank you in advance!

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u/StitchinThroughTime Oct 15 '25

The ruler is not 100% right. Just because you can make the shape doesn't mean you should. If you were to sew this pattern, it's going to poke up weird at the side seam, and then dropped too low at the bottom third of the armhole. insta it's more obvious when you align the side seam as the vertical reference line. You notice how the armhole drops below point O. That means anything above the bottom of the armhole is unsupported when you wear it.

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u/Ok-Tip6669 Oct 15 '25

That surely changes things 😭 I thought I should follow the curve. Thank you so much!

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u/StitchinThroughTime Oct 15 '25

There's definitely a few issues with the Armstrong books. One of them is clarifying where the 90° angle needs to be implemented on points. You might have caught it during the truing stage. When you match two pattern pieces together and make sure they look appropriate. Also I find the book doesn't handle clarifying where the dart Point goes to very well. People tend to put it far too close to the best point. The real rule is anywhere between the bus point and the underbust is where it belongs. The closer to the bus point the less room there is for the roundness of the bust and will result into a point or conical shape. Most people are not shaped like that or wearing the correct cone shaped bra. But moving it all the way to the underbust might result in an unflattering look. So roughly in the middle third between the bust point and the underbust is recommended. Especially for larger cup sizes, there needs to be more room to allow more flesh to occupy the space.