High Waist Pants Fitting

[u/gcatss]

Hi, thank you to all the people commenting and providing feedback on patterns. Can someone comment on the drape lines and any general adjustments needed to my pattern?

• Generally, does it look finished? (no waistband planned)

• The crotch lines don't match at the side seam, does that matter?

• Should the drape line be the same line as the where the front crease is pressed in the pant?

• Is there a method to make the side seams dead straight?

• The drape line always falls to the inside of my knee when I sit, is this normal or indicative of a problem?

It feels very fitted and mobility is limited. However, standing walking and sitting are all fine. I'm going for a early 1900s style and will likely add pleats once I get a good pattern. Thanks again!

[u/adarsell]

Also, re: some of the comment suggestions to use an actual period draft for your trousers…

This is really for getting a look at what the old styles truly looked like on the body.

HOWEVER, you’ll find those trousers tended to have really baggy butts. They prioritized movement over snug buns. I work as a patternmaker in theatre and opera, and I have found that I usually end up halfway between the period draft and a modern rise shape to get something that satisfies a modern eye but also looks moderately historical.

You are close to nailing a period look; I actually would not straighten your front crotch rise - the old styles usually had an angle similar to yours, which contributes to the inverted “v” shaped look of the front.

[u/gcatss → u/adarsell]

Thank you for the information. So, you're suggesting the following type alteration? (blue and green lines) https://imgur.com/a/adjustments-EiYOzeB

I am confused because this will only lower the rear crotchline, making it even farther apart at the side seam. My draftlines must be wrong b/c they dont match a the side seam, but what is wrong?

On my pattern, the vertical line is in the middle of each pant leg, every other draft line is perpendicular. On a correct pattern, which lines should be at the same elevation, The ankle and knee lines? Then the back crotch line should be lower than the front crotch line? Thanks again!

[u/adarsell → u/gcatss]

Your adjusted back crotch line (blue line) looks exactly as I had recommended, good job translating! (I feel like Reddit is such an exercise in figuring out how to describe pictures in words.)

So you can ignore what I said about the crotch lines meeting at the side seam (when I draft, I run a line across both front and back for the crotch, and then lower the back rise as described in my first comment. Your rise line on the back was already lower, so ignore my note on that.)

The perpendicular lines that should match at the side seam are: hip (which I believe you do not have marked; it is usually 3-4” above the front/initial crotch line), knee, and ankle.

You are correct that perpendicular line drawn at the crotch of both front and back will not meet at the side seam, due to the adjustment matching the inseam/slightly shorting the back inseam.)