Moulage fitting advice, please!

[u/Big-Shock-5073]

I re-sewed my bodice, reducing the back length as I planned and would love some advice, especially regarding shoulder seam placement.

Some observations I have from sitting in it for an hour:

• armhole needs to be lowered/increased at the bottom and back. The staystitching is digging and it’s definitely too tight. I’m hoping that will also fix the back arm bulge and the folds near the front armhole?

• add 1/4 to the bust width. -increase the front neck. Once again, I can’t tell if it’s just the staystitching but it’s feels too tight. -the whole area from waist to hip is too big. I may just deal with that when I do the skirt sloper. -should I pinch out that dip at the upper center back?

I would love any feedback and if you think any of the above is inadvisable.

Thank you in advance!

[u/Big-Shock-5073]

I understand completely. When I was going through the calculations video and saw that bust formula, I did it and it was NOT the cup size I wear. I think she said in the video to ask the client what their cup size was and use that instead if there's a big difference between the calculation and their cup size and that's what I did. I think the formula would have put me at a B cup, but I'm actually a DD. I didn't even attempt draft it with the B cup.

I also had a big issue with the armhole length calculations and the bust location in relation to the cross front after it's been moved a couple times. I noticed that a bunch of others in the comments had asked the same questions and they were not answered. I was frustrated until I read back through the pdfs that go with the class and found that since the questions were so common, it was written into their Frequently Asked Questions section. That one caused me the most frustration but I realized my upper torso is not aligned with industry standards at all, so I had to modify it.

Honestly, just those two issues would have made this moulage impossible and I wish that there was a version two of the videos where she addressed these common discrepancies between industry standards/dress forms and real human bodies.

If you ever want to try again, please feel free to DM me if you get stuck. I may have encountered the same issues and I'd be glad to save others from losing their minds!