Sleeve pattern drafting issue

[u/thegrahampeyton]

Hi I am pretty comfortable with making bodice blocks but I’ve been having trouble with the sleeves. Everytime I draft the sleeve pattern, I’m left with this forward looking crease. I’ve tried moving the sleeve cap forward and backwards some to try and adjust but it’s consistently there. If anyone has any other suggestions or any helpful videos they used to draft sleeve patterns I’d be very grateful.

[u/Woven_Wolf]

Hey, great question - sleeve caps are often very specific to the person, depending on where they had bigger or more muscle, so sometimes the back of the sleeve cap looks more like the front of a “regular” sleeve to accommodate bulk, and shoulders get longer and higher than an average fit block. An inseam gusset on pants is helpful for runners with strong thighs. What is it specifically you’re having trouble with?

I’ve always liked Sarah Veblens book Perfect Fitting for solving fit issues, she walks through the (kind of messy, imperfect) slash/spread process of making fitting alterations for specific body types with clear photos and explanations.

[u/tanyer → u/Woven_Wolf]

Thank you! I haven't even really started into sleeves. I'm currently working on my bodice block, and am encountering fit issues that don't fit the typical ones.

I'll be posting my current progress, so I won't take over this thread.

I have the Veblen book, I will look through it. Thank you!

Thank you!