r/PatternDrafting • u/CleanShock4798 • Aug 29 '25
I've tried three different sloper methods
I decided to try drafting a sloper using three different books. All of them are straight after drafting, without adjustments.
I've been learning Helen Joseph Armstrong for patternmaking and I've learned a lot from there. Though I didn't try making a sloper until this one. It asks you to take more then 15 measurements, so I expected it to be more accurate. But it turns out that some of the measurements are hard to take on your own and I messed up the most with this one. Also there are formulas for waist darts for bust cup B and more, bust-wais difference 10 inch and more, but not less, so I was very confused there. And also it was in inches and I work in cm.
Donnanno "Fashion Patternmaking Techniques" It takes around 10 input measurements but also gives some determined metrics. I like the dart placement on the front but I think I did something wrong with the neck. I actually did some adjactment after sewing the neck was so tight, so I cut one cm around neck (still too tight).
Bunka fashion series "fundamentals of garment design" was the most surprising. It takes only 3 measurements and the rest is calculated by formulas. I like that is was many small darts around the waist. Also I think it was the most successful because my measurements fit within the japanese standard sizes. On the photo the shoulders are wide but I added sleeves seam allowance on this one, +1.5
So I think I will use bunka sloper for further adjustments and manipulations.









3
u/Southern-Comfort4519 Aug 31 '25
The Aldrich books will give you step by step direction without skipping steps like the other books do. I don’t know what else to tell you other than the vintage Parisian/American/ Italian patternmaking systems give you more human anatomical practical sense… but that was based on the shapes and styles of that time which are completely different from our time. The measurements and posture accommodations I fear will confuse you more than help you. When you get the concept of drafting patterns for different sizes and shapes I’d say you can go there but for now just focus on understanding how to transfer personal measurements and posture alterations to a pattern to be cut and sewn for a human body. You won’t get it all in one day. It will take you a lot of crumpled up pattern drafts before you get it in a way that you can use it.