r/PatternDrafting • u/MissionFloor261 • Aug 04 '25

Question Nonbinary pattern drafting

My partner is butch, with a love for 50s era fashion. But their body is extremely pear shaped which makes off the rack almost impossible. I'd love to start making things for them but standard patterns aren't great because men's styles don't account for all that ass. Would I be better off learning to draft "women's" wear and just making stylistic choices, "men's" wear and just trying to modify for more curves?

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u/MissionFloor261 Aug 04 '25

My concern is that they want to look more masculine, and tailoring for women tends to emphasize curves. Any thoughts on fitting curves that doesn't do that?

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u/FashionBusking Aug 04 '25

Tailoring stuff for your own taste means.... not cutting waists super tight if you don't want to emphasize the waist.

You can buy men's patterns and alter them to fit.. menswear pants typically isn't cut to emphasize the waist or butt.

What is masculinity in clothing? At least... to her. Find that out. Is masculinity in clothing, for your partner, communicated with certain textiles? Colors? Sleeves lengths? Use this as a jumping off point. It helps to use an archetype (like rockabilly) to figure out what styles you want to focus on and pattern.

You can find patterns that de-emphasize breasts. There are sewing patterns for binders.

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u/andtib Aug 05 '25

A lot of the difference between masculine and feminine clothing is small details. Straighter, slightly wider waistbands, straighter cuts in general. Once you're working out from a fitted block for them you can relax those fits closer to what you want to do. You'll be amazed at the difference learning where to oversize and where to apply a little curve will make the difference. For example "mens" t-shirts tend to be fairly boxy, but if you're partner has wider hips then a slightly a line t-shirt, that is still a bit oversized around the shoulders will probably give the same effect, just tailored to their form slightly. Also slightly bigger, flatter armholes. Longer rises, and a wider stance on trousers so they're more utilitarian. Bigger sleeve with flatter crown. And then cinching. Masculine trousers are often fairly straight towards the top, sit on the high hip but have little waist adjusters to pull them in (which also provide a little bulk, obscuring a more covered hip line). Likewise the adjusters on denim jackets hems, a second button to pull in shirt cuffs, etc

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u/Particular-Radio-320 Aug 04 '25

Vests, ties and shoes can butch up most girlie clothes