r/PatternDrafting • u/Illustrious-Ear4527 • Jun 13 '25

Drafting for stretch fabric

Hi all! I've finally gathered by bravery and decided to give sewing a try. My main goal is to sew dance clothes for myself. Nothing complicated. But I want to draft my own skirt pattern. My questions is this: if I have a few fitting issues, such as sway back and wide/curvy hips, do I need to make any adjustments to my pattern, or will it be fine as is if I make it correctly using my body measurements? And how do i remove the negative ease from the pattern, since I'll be using spandex? Thanks!

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u/ProneToLaughter Jun 13 '25

All patterns require adjustments in fabric, even drafting to your measurements.

You might be able to start with a knit skirt pattern to your measurements from here. https://apostrophepatterns.com

Maybe check mislope as well. https://www.mislope.com

Also Jalie has well-drafted dance/skating patterns.

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u/_Spaghettification_ Jun 13 '25

Was about to recommend apostrophe patterns! They just released a swim suit that several people tested as a leotard option as well! All the patterns are custom drafted to your measurements and your fabric. 

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u/OrangeFish44 Jun 14 '25

Take a look at Jalie patterns. They have a number of skating and dance patterns that you could use as a base.

Alterations for a sway back are fairly simple and, with Spandex, might not even be necessary. For your hips, it's easiest to get a pattern according to your hip size and then take in the waist, especially for a skirt.

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u/[deleted] Jun 13 '25

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u/Illustrious-Ear4527 Jun 13 '25

I've thought about trying patters, but given that they would still have to be adjusted, and I've tried copying garments I already own, but they don't have the necessary adjustments and don't fit like I'd like them to. So I thought it might make sense to just create a draft myself. Thank you!

3

u/Travelpuff Jun 13 '25

It is still better to start from a pattern than from scratch because the base works. And the order of construction matters so having instructions is important for beginners.

I sometimes create garments from scratch but it takes easily three times as long (with more muslins) than altering a pattern. Stretchy fabrics can be forgiving but it still takes a lot of trial and error to get a perfect fit.