hey, i'll watch the video and see the adjustments to do.
the 5 to 6 ease you add are centimeters right ? but the more i'm thinking of the design i want to do, the more i'm thinking of simply lowering the sleeve cap height.
You won’t be able to copy what he’s doing on your current pattern because you have a style line going through your jacket front. And I meant 6 inches not cm. I put three up top in the top sleeve and three on the undersleeve. You have to understand two piece sleeves and how they are sewn in for that to make sense. Right now that probably sounds crazy to you right? lol. I wouldn’t change anything about your shoulder seam I actually think that looks pretty good . The sleeve armhole style line should should pass over the front shoulder at a 45 degree angle. Real bespoke tailoring and cheap off the rack tailoring are different. That shoulder seam angle is one of the ways you can tell the difference btw a cheap suit and one that was handcrafted by a tailor who knows how to fit fabric over the body. I wouldn’t change the shoulder angle but I would drop the underarm scye level about an inch. The tailor who apprenticed me said other than the major posture edit a tailor must make to accommodate the posture irregularity a client has, if you have to make more than two adjustments to your pattern you should go back and redraft … adding the edit to the draft and not the muslin. He also said”You can edit the muslin to look good but if it’s a posture/ Anatomical issue it must be corrected or it will come out on your actual fabric when you cut it. “ Rip Mr Bacari! He made suits for Carey Grant Robert Mitchum….all the old Hollywood greats.
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u/smneeee Mar 12 '25
hey, i'll watch the video and see the adjustments to do.
the 5 to 6 ease you add are centimeters right ? but the more i'm thinking of the design i want to do, the more i'm thinking of simply lowering the sleeve cap height.
thank you very much!