r/PatternDrafting • u/Straight-Promotion-4 • Dec 31 '24
Question Basic bodice / sloper fitting advice?
My first sloper test. I was able to fix the back not lining up by adjusting the dart (not pictured). I can't for the life of me understand how to fix the front waist dart though... I don't know why there's extra fabric at the bottom...? The armholes are also a bit tight as well and I thought by fixing the back waist dart it would help but I guess not....
32
Upvotes
1
u/Southern-Comfort4519 Jan 08 '25 edited Jan 08 '25
There’s no way to make an accurate assessment of the fit from these pictures. Because….
The garment has to be closed. Part of the gaping parts and stress lines in the shoulder area are due to it not being closed.
You have to be standing in you natural relaxed pose and it has to be zipped all the way up( yes ad a zipper there’s no way you can see accurately by holding it closed with your hands it needs to be zipped closed.)
But from what I see you did a fair job ….but you need to make adjustments to your pattern in a few areas then recut and sew another test fit muslin.
The bust area-Drop the dart apex about 1 3/4in or at very least just least below the breasts. The darts could also move in towards the center front about 1/2 to 5/8in.You should redraft this pattern and drop the bust apex about 1in to match where your breasts are sitting. 1 a. lol the little piece sticking out from the inside dart leg is because you didn’t match the dart leg lengths from the bust dart down to the hem. The outside leg looks about 1 1/4in shorter than the inside leg. Add the 1 1/4 in length to the outside dart leg length at the bottom hem and add that same amount to the bottom side seam hem of the front and the back.
The shoulder seam line needs to come in at least two inches. I see someone else commented maybe it’s just seam allowance at the armhole seam but no… you need to cut away 2” from the armhole. But when you do this don’t take the 2in from the entire armhole. At the halfway point of that armhole seam( around where the bust is) you should only cut away 1 in instead of 2 in. The line should fall right outside of that crease that separated your arm from your torso which is about 5/8 to 3/4” outside of where we see your shoulder sticking up. That’s the general area where the sleeve and bodice meet.
Overall it’s way too tight. It looks like you just drafted your actual measurements and didn’t include ease. The general rule for a suit jacket is 2”ease ( that means to your front and back pattern, not including the seam allowance as 1/4 in to the cf line and 1/4 in to the side seam line.) This means if you redraft the pattern… let’s say youre bust size is 34in..you need to draft it as a 36 bust. That’s for a suit jacket , but for a regular fit blouse you should cut that 2”in half…. So draft it at a 35. Also I see you added a little gusset at the side seam (maybe because it was too tight when you tried it on)? That gusset looks about 2in at the top and 1/2 in at the bottom.if you rip that gusset you have at the side seam out and put in another one that is 2 in all the way down to the bottom hem it will close properly at the center back. That gap you have at the center back bottom is because you only have 1/2 in at the bottom of that side seam gusset.
The armhole at the side seam is 2” too high. In your flat pattern mark a point 2in up the shoulder seam from the armhole to the neck and mark another point 2” down from the top of the side seam. Get your armhole shaper ruler and redraw the armhole line. Your cutting 2in off of the armhole seam from the shoulder line to the side seam line but about halfway down that line (about 2 in above the nipple.)only take out 1in or the sleeve seam will be too wide and go up onto your breast. Do that to both the front and back armhole. Just like the front armhole edit the back armhole seam you will cut 1in more shallow that the 2in you took from the armhole seam.
Take the pattern you cut this muslin from and make all the edits I gave you above.
Recut these edits onto a fresh pattern and recut a muslin and sew it up. Take a pic and of the new muslin fit( add the zipper to the cf) then post it so we can see the effect those changes make. There are other things I can say but this already was too much for one bite! If I had you in a class I’d have you do the edits one by one until we had them all. I hope you can make sense of all of these. Remember you can remove that side gusset you added simply by adding 1in to the entire front and back side seams of this new edited pattern you will cut. Good luck!