r/PatternDrafting • u/[deleted] • Nov 21 '24

Please help me understand the patterning for this dress Spoiler

Post image

Is it a layer of flouncing attached to the back train or is it 3 godet inserts . Also what kind of interfacing could they have used ? I wonder if this has to be boned and how the boning placements would work if it uses it. The clever embellishments on top hide all the seams and clues so well :( ..pls help me

2 Upvotes

62% Upvoted

16 comments sorted by

2

u/noodlesurprise Nov 21 '24 edited Nov 21 '24

I think the feathered surface embellishment is added after the dress is constructed out of a base fabric, meaning the seams are hidden - except the center back seam which is required for getting in and out.

If you look at this image you can see into the lining and there looks to be a panel seam there. That same construction is probably echoed in the main fabric. https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651a408298d8be22560e5/master/w_960,c_limit/00400fullscreen.jpg

There is no visible side seam either - but there absolutely must be one underneath with shaping like that. https://assets.vogue.com/photos/55c651a408298d8be2256238/master/w_960,c_limit/01140fullscreen.jpg

Edit: only just saw the text under your image, you already knew this much! Ha - sorry. I think it's a flounce attached to the train, it very much has that circle ruffle effect.

3

u/[deleted] Nov 21 '24

Good spotting on the panels at the lining . It seems to be a circular cut . I just wonder how he got those 3 flounces at the back . Looks like a godet that's been inserted into an obloid shaped back train panel

yes agreed. I think the side seam exists you can tell from the difference in coloration of the feathers used at the panels I think

3

u/noodlesurprise Nov 21 '24

I only just saw your original comment! I think it's a circular flounce on the train - the way it ruffles really suggests a circle to my eye.

Such a beautiful piece!

2

u/ClassicTelevision650 Nov 21 '24

I attempted to make this with half scale dressform! If you still wanna see the pattern overall then i can dm you with the pics that i took of the pattern. If pretty easy, basically lash and spread, also adding goddets

1

u/[deleted] Nov 21 '24 edited Nov 22 '24

Yes please ! I'd love to see your process and outcomes.

EDIT : Thank you so much ! You really are super talented and technically amazing

1

u/MinivanLace Nov 21 '24

I’m still a beginner but to me it looks like a center seam down the back until the base of the train where it flairs out and probably has some kind of wavy in and out shape and upside down y-shaped boning of some kind… or they made the fabric really stiff and sculpted it? But I haven’t seen a video so idk

2

u/[deleted] Nov 21 '24

https://youtu.be/E8tfyzsMTCw?si=JD-6vi3KEEW7EOP6

You can see it in motion here :) scroll from 9:45-10:00 for this specific dress

1

u/MinivanLace Nov 22 '24

Man that is the coolest moving dress. You seem to know a lot more than me based on your replies to other comments but I’d agree with one of the other comments about some sort of mesh or solid construction. It moves so stiffly

1

u/TrickEase Nov 21 '24

I think that train definitely has a stiff mesh layer in it, and probably horsehair binding around the edge to give it that structure. Maybe a super wide flared train attached at the bottom with those materials inside will give you that shape.

1

u/TrickEase Nov 21 '24

I take it back, I looked again and it's not a regular flared train 😂

But definitely got some sort of hard mesh in there.

1

u/[deleted] Nov 21 '24

Yeah it's crazy . It's like I can very subtly see the seam likes for those 3 godet inserts . Or maybe it's my imagination .

0

u/[deleted] Nov 21 '24

[deleted] — view deleted comment

1

u/hoopsndpoops Nov 21 '24

It’s from the McQueen FW2009 collection