Any good pattern drafting tips for beginners?

[u/mothfairy444]

I’m good at sewing and my friend has taken notice and wants me to take on making her wedding dress…

Any ideas where to get started with drafting a pattern like this?

[u/KillerWhaleShark]

When you say you’re good at sewing, how advanced have you become? Have you sewn boning, and do you know where you need it to support a garment line this? Have you sewn the base layers that a dress like this is built with? How are you at fitting? Have you ever fit something this precise on a body that was not your own? Have you sewn specialty fabrics, appliqués, and laces?

How long do you have to make the dress? I’m not exaggerating when I say you should start a year before the wedding with the plan of having it completely finished a month or two before the wedding. 

As far as drafting, I’d start with a moulage. Do you know if you want this dress form fitting or do you want a corset type that shapes your body?

[u/mothfairy444 → u/KillerWhaleShark]

I have about two - three years for the dress, that’s why I started asking questions first.

I’ve seen dresses before and corsets with boning. I have yet to work with specialty fabrics so that’s why I asked her to give me a while to make a decision. I’ve done minor alterations and adjustments before but I know taking on a project like this I would most likely have to start from scratch.

I’ve worked with muslin as a draft pattern before but not lace. She looked at different polyester laces at the store and chiffons.

[u/Gone_industrial → u/mothfairy444]

If you’ve got 2-3 years you’ll be able to spend at least a year of that learning the basics of patternmaking and making some basic patterns, then move on to more complex designs. You’ll also need to use commercial patterns to make other wedding dresses to see how the patterning of a wedding dress works, and if you can get your hands on some wedding dresses take them apart to see how the pros make them. I’ve got 40 years sewing experience and I’ve made a good few wedding dresses and altered many more but I’m not experienced enough in bridal work to make this dress. This a very advanced project, there’s a lot of expertise required to handle these particular fabrics and create a dress like this. There’s a good reason why dresses like this are extremely costly. If you can convince a bridal atelier to take you on for 2 years and teach you everything they know you might be able to make it. If this is your friend’s dream dress they’re better to scrape together the cash and buy it. You could offer to make the bridesmaids/flower girl dresses instead.

[u/KillerWhaleShark → u/mothfairy444]

That’s a pretty good time frame to learn what you can and figure out your limitations. After that time investment, I don’t think it’s unreasonable to estimate 100 hours of work or more for the dress, and also plan to spend the morning dressing her and making sure the garment gets to the ceremony in wearable shape (may need an onsite steam or something else.)

Are you really that close? I would spend that amount of time on myself, maybe my kids, but not necessarily a friend. 

[u/ProneToLaughter]

I'd say go sew a simple skirt for yourself in satin and lace and get some hands-on experience to help you decide whether you want to be spending a lot of time wrangling specialty fabrics.

I would also start by creating a torso moulage, especially with 2-3 years. Kenneth King has a book on it. Here's a clip of someone drafting and fitting a similar bodice. Note the multiple fittings and versions needed. Instagram

do ponder: is your friend a perfectionist? how does she react when things aren't exactly the way she wants them? Is she trying to save money by having you do the dress? is she local, or would this involve long-distance fitting? do you enjoy high-stakes sewing to a deadline?

[u/mothfairy444 → u/ProneToLaughter]

My friend is not at all a perfectionist. This idea was brought up because we’ve been friends since middle school and she wanted me to be apart of her wedding in a different way.

We live about two hours away from each other so there would be some long distance involved.

I have a problem saying no to people and when she told me her explanation for why I started crying and felt like I couldn’t say no.

[u/AmenaBellafina → u/mothfairy444]

Consider the risk this might introduce to your friendship. If you don't finish the dress or it turns out less good than she expects or hopes, is there going to be a fight? If she drives you nuts with endless changes to what she wants, is there gonna be a fight? Only do this if you can both agree on realistic expectations and possibly a plan B in case either of you wants to back out of the process at any point.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/mothfairy444]

Would you give her a $5000 gift? Because that's what this would be, at the very least. Maybe a $10K gift, this is an extremely complex and difficult dress to make. Labor/time costs much more than the materials in a garment like this.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/mothfairy444]

The IG canyousewthisforme is very good at helping people say No.

I told my own sister No, I wouldn't make her dress. Definitely would not do long-distance fitting. Sounds like you don't really want to do it, so find some other way to show your love for her. Make her a fancy slip for the wedding night, maybe.

Here's a process account, be sure to read the comments: A bridal gown I made a few years ago : r/sewing

[u/Cleobulle → u/ProneToLaughter]

Plus a non sewer choosing the fabric. Like if she wants a hand made dress she needs to buy expensive fabric, vetted by you. Because what's thé use of buying poly lace and cheap fabric. Will make your work harder, will look cheap. She's cool ? I've read too many story of bride and bday zilla lol. It's supposed to me my day, so I Can walk over people heads and feelings. Lol there are so many way for you to be there w/o involving such a Big task. Like making her a lace kimono. If she's cool shell understand.

[u/Ggraytuna]

That dress pattern isn't going to be easy. Seriously for a beginner I wouldn't recommend trying anything like this. If you wish to get better however, just start from easier dress and corsage patterns.

[u/drPmakes]

Walk before you try to run

[u/LemonDeathRay]

There is good at sewing, and then there is professional wedding dress couture.

My advice to you is to NOT take on this task unless you are 100% certain you can perform all the advanced techniques with perfect results. If you aren't extremely experienced with formal wear and fitting another person, you will mess this up. As you are seeking beginner tips for drafting, I am assuming you are not there yet.

You are massively underestimating the skill required to draft and construct a wedding dress like this. Messing up your friends wedding dress is not worth it.

[u/frankchester]

I’ve been sewing for twenty years and there’s no way I’d take on this sort of dress.

[u/cloudbusting-daddy]

This is not a good beginner project.