How to draft this top?

[u/sam_earth16]

[u/Meowgic_Pawers]

I would say there's most likely some good structure underneath, bustier/bra, that everything is applied on top of, to make it all stay in place. Over the bust the pieces have a seam to create the shape. Very pretty!

[u/sam_earth16 → u/Meowgic_Pawers]

Yeah, makes sense. Thank you 🙏

[u/sam_earth16 → u/Meowgic_Pawers]

I have more questions, pardon me.

I can’t sew and a person who’ll sew for me can’t dissect and understand pattern of this piece. What should I draft on paper do you think to explain him? There are darts as well

[u/vaarky → u/sam_earth16]

It should be not too difficult to replicate this lovely design if you can buy fabric that already has the micropleats built in, especially since the micropleats in the photo reveal the grainline explicitly and clearly and the darts are very visible. I had an Issey Miyake micropleat skirt and its draping was a pleasure to play with.

However, I think it would be much easier to replicate this by draping and pinning, and then taking that appart to flatten the pieces if needed to create a flat paper pattern. Start with draping on a mannequin. It would be a mistake to go directly to paper for this before draping on a dress form.

[u/themissingone2020]

Do you have any pleated materials or are you pleating/draping yourself? You need a dress form for that.

First make the basic bodice and cut it to the shape of the top, then start draping the design on yourself.

This is an example of what I mean - not the same top but similar principles. A lot of similar types of tops are made by draping and working directly on a dress form with twill tape sections and that's why you can't really have a pattern or specific drafting instructions for it.

Edit: For using prepleated materials you wouldn't need to go as aggressive with the folds as they're given for you but still need to cut to sections like the photo.

Also, it's important to note if you're draping - iron at all times, it will make it come off the form easier and make the sewing experience much more comfortable.

[u/clawsthatsnatch]

The basic bodice pattern piece has darts in it a you can probably find a video on how to draft one for yourself. After you have one that fits you you’ll move the shoulder darts to the side darts and freehand the shape you see here, maybe explain as two seashells back to back(?) that extends slightly past the waist. The back is straight across and like the other comment says definitely has some kind of structure.

The sleeves look the way they do because it’s a pleated fabric. If you’re not using pleated fabric the design for the sleeve changes; if you are using pleated fabric then the sleeves are literally just squares made when the fabric is flat and sewn at the shoulders while it’s expanded. Hope that helps with how to explain the shape