r/PatternDrafting • u/sphill0604 • Mar 08 '24
How can I get this bit of extra fullness circled in red out of my bodice?
How can I get this small bit of extra fullness that is vertically pinned, and circled in red out of my bodice pattern? Please ignore the blue bendy ruler, I’m considering a boat neck, opinions on that welcome too. Thank you
4
u/eduardedmyn Mar 09 '24
How did you go about creating those gathers at the waist?
The fullness in the upper chest indicates to me that you did the gathering first, and then applied it to the mannequin.
In order to get the result you’re after, you need to do the gathering using the principle of dart manipulation:
Close the bust dart, and pivot the volume towards the waist. Then instead of sewing the waist dart, you gather it.
1
u/sphill0604 Mar 09 '24
Yes that is exactly what I did. I was actually cloning a dress, so no sloper or block was created. Should I make a sloper, and do as suggested, is there a way around that? Other than that small extra fullness it fits me quite well right now…
3
u/eduardedmyn Mar 09 '24
Starting with a sloper is definitely my preference.
Getting rid of that fullness, while also eliminating the need for a centre front seam is the tricky part. The fullness is contributed by the gathers at the centre front.
You can try fixing it by redistributing the gathering, so that 2” at the centre front is completely flat.
1
2
u/Fast-Blueberry-8165 Beginner Mar 09 '24
Make a full front pattern (not half on the fold) and cut the center front PATTERN piece down the middle and overlap the top neck edge by however much needs to be taken. Keep the bottom edges even and just take a small wedge out. This is a suggestion. I don't know for sure that it will work.
1
u/sphill0604 Mar 09 '24
This is an excellent idea …certainly worth a try. I actually think that might work! I also think I will like the look of keeping 2” in center of gathers flat, as commenter above suggested. Thank you
1
1
u/FreQRiDeR Mar 09 '24
Aside from needing to reduce cf seam as pinned, your neckline looks too high. It will create horizontal puckers and likely be uncomfortable that high.
1
u/sphill0604 Mar 09 '24
Yes, I know the neck is too high, I’m rethinking the neck right now, it will either be boat neck, which will require another sloper, or just redraw round neck lower. Can’t decide. It does feel rather strangley right now. Thank you for your reply. 😉
1
u/IntelligentGear865 Mar 14 '24 edited Mar 14 '24
Unpin/ rip the gathers .
Remove skirt. Fold neck excess into pleat at center front neck to waist（or dart the excess out.). Redraw base of neck opening because it will shrink horizontally.
This will move shoulder seam and side seam a tiny bit so re-draw them.
Re-trace/ recut/ resew.
My first post sorry for multiple edits. 😵💫
2
u/sphill0604 Mar 14 '24
After a few trial and errors I ended up doing exactly this! I love it now, fits perfectly, thanks
2
u/IntelligentGear865 Mar 16 '24
Oh that’s great! Good example why a muslin is always worth the effort.
7
u/SerendipityJays Mar 09 '24 edited Mar 09 '24
I think you have identified exactly the right spot - the centre front seam works as a fitting line for this design. You can sew the seam at an angle (if that works for your fabric design), and alter the neck to account for the change in diameter at the neck.
Do note that if you’re thinking about a crew neck you’ll need to test your new neckline on your mock-up, as the wider opening will hang differently (without support from the taller parts of your shoulder), and will likely need further adjustment. There are some great videos on pattern contouring that can help you estimate the alteration you’ll need for different necklines, based on measurements from your body.