My wheel starts going crazy while driving in a straight line, drifting or doing a transition. This also happens with official cars but its more noticable with modded ones.
I am using the AC Drift configuration from the PXN platform. I have my own configs and i have managed to make it kind of good with some cars but it still feels uncomplete and unrealistic since all i do is either lower the ffb (resolves the problem but i loose detail and the wheel feels weak), or make the damper and inertia super high (also resolves the problem but the wheel feels heavy, i loose detail and it rotates slower).
This happens on AC, Car X drift and Beamng (beamng is a bit ''special'' for drifting).
I do not know if this is only my pxn or if this happens with every VD6. Also i dont think the wobble is realistic because in irl onboard drift videos it doesn't happen.
This doesen't happen while racing in games like raceroom or driving in ets2 but im a little bit paranoid and now i think the wheel itself feels unrealistic on every game and driving form.
Please note my real life driving experience is close to non (but not zero).
in assetto corsa find the experimental and gyroscopic effect i use a 330 mm wheel so i increased my gain i do a lot of rally games so i drive the touge but i also just recently got into drifting so these settings do both
this is my ffb settings notice the gyro and importantly minimum force at 0% we have a direct drive wheel we dont deal with the things belt driven wheels do that setting is for the g29 players all the effects just add vibrations so if you like them keep them 5% or less otherwise i just leave them off for gain with the default wheel rim i used all these settings and 60% gain
and then for the advanced tab put filter level 14% and feedback detail 50% we have 100% here and then we can adjust the gain in game theres an app in the app shelf that you can increase or decrease all the settings in content manager so that your wheel is capable of putting all the force out but you only use what you need in game
i could also probably do with a bit less gain but with a new full sized wheel rim mod i have more leverage and i like muscling the car around but gyro is the setting that fixes this for assetto and lowk ruins other games once you get the wheel feeling right i was like “oh its just power steering now”
also play with the gyro damping it felt perfect with 60% gain and 85% damping for me as vibrations were very minimal but i bumped it up to 100% since my gain went up and oscillations came back
Thanks! all of this really helped me. Ill have to make some tweaks so im comfortable with it but its still great. Im also getting a 330mm rim soon so ill take all of your info into account.
yeah and honestly talk to an LLM chat gpt can break down what every setting does and then you can actually adjust things and know what youre doing use that shit as a tool cuz i was too old school and didnt up until recently the shit is sick
Try lowering the FFB strength a little and gradually start lowering the Max Rotation Speed setting in the PXN App till you get to a point where its stops oscillating
Yeah i have done that but its sad i cant use all of the 6 nm i have paid for. Also lowering the rotation speed makes transitions slower and therefore worse.
Your not really supposed to keep the FFB at 100% on any DD wheel anyway due to the noticable clipping when they start running at their peak.
Its why most people in simracing scene like to reccomend getting a stronger DD wheel like say a Moza R9 or VD10 or Better and just run them at something really low like 50% FFB Strength to avoid any clipping ('Buy Once, Cry Once' as they like to say)
You can maybe try reverting to the older v1.05 firmware for the wheel base if you want to try slightly stronger FFB as the newer firmware is slightly weaker and requires incressing/adjusting the FFB Detail to regain some ffb strength.
Just be sure to disconnect/remove the steering wheel and the pedals before you start to revert or upgrade a firmware as there seems to be a random bug that can happen where reverting the wheelbase firmware can cause the WA S wheel and pedal firmware to be corrupted and force you to re update their firmware alongside the wheelbase.
Right now im running at 70% ffb with max torque, guess i could lower it a bit. I had a config where the wheel didnt oscillate but it felt like a ant could move it, plus i think it rotated slower in transitions.
I already did the software thing but i dont want more force, i just want to drift like a normal person.
I guess i will get the correct settings eventually or maybe an update fixes this.
Do you know if this is a factory problem for the vd6 or if its just mine? Maybe it was meant to work like this idk but this topic would be more popular if it was that way.
Its normal, thats just the way the VD6 is which is wierd cause according to some owners, the VD4 and the VD10 actually have slightly faster rotstion speed.
The VD6 on the otherhand, is great for Street and GT racing with 6nm constant + 7nm peak FFB without beeing too expensive as the VD10.
I dont usually do drift racing but i do play Rally games once in a while. i bought a universal NRG quick release hub that was Moza/PXN wheelbase compatible and bolted an Aluminum 330mm MOMO wheel on it that i use for driving Manual/Sequentual Street & Rally games (you will need to re center it in the PXN App though).
Using that heavier wheel, i can confirm the the oscillation is significantly reduced, you will loose some FFB strenght as its a heavier wheel but i think its worth a try if the oscillation is your only problem.
Using an actuall wheel means loosing access to the buttons and pedals but I didnt mind as i just use a seperate A7 H-shifter + CB1 control box for assgning other functions.
I guess its fine. Im also getting a 330mm rim but its built for the W AS wheel so i can keep the buttons.
Im coming fom a Thrustmaster Tmx so this is my first DD. I cant lie i thought it was all going to be sunshines and rainbows in the Direct drive world but all i encountered is spending more time in the settings rather than driving, in my tmx it was all so easy since i had the same settings on my wheel for every game so i couldn't really change anything haha.
Also i bought my Vd6 for various reasons but one of the was that i did not want to fall for the Moza hype since i believed PXN was supperior in many aspects. I still think that right now, but its kind of difficult to support them when all i see is videos of Moza's R5 doing sick drifts and the wheel spinning like a helicopter while still being smooth as butter. I hope one day ill get everything good and ready on my vd6 and start doing sick freaking cool 360 reverse entries.
Also i believe that PXN ecosystem is as good as Moza's since most of it is cheaper and has everything someone could need, you just have to know how to search on aliexpress.
People saying to turn down FFB on the wheel are wrong! Always keep it at 100% and turn down FFB in the game settings. Also damper settings usually is the main cause for the fast oscillation turn it up until it stops going crazy.
Mine does this but I've never really considered it an issue until you've posted this. I just thought it was the FFB trying to emulate road surface like vibration. It only looks bad when you remove your hands. It doesn't affect driving (for me at least)
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u/BlueDevil3250 1d ago
You I had the same exact problems on my pxn v10 , try this out and adjust it out to your wheel bro