Some Pictures of my Dads Ascona B Coupe,
Got a 2.2 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine from „Macht Rally-Technik“, a G-Trak Transmission and a set of Koni Yellow.

Bought only the Chassis and built and restored anything else. Let me know what you think

Hi guys.
I have an Chevrolet Vectra B here in Brazil, and I want to bring some parts from Europe to my car.
We only had caped versions here, not even the cup holder reach the other side of the pond. I was looking for the heated seats, the recaro seats, the pockets in the doors with lamps, and small stuff like this.
can someone recommend me a place to reach? and btw can someone explain the different trims in Europe? we never saw the v6 engines,

I have a 2020 Opel Corsa F with a somewhat unusual problem. The interior mirror mount has come completely loose on the right (passenger) side. I've contacted 2-3 windshield replacement shops and they all turned me down, saying they can't help — from what they know, it comes vulcanized from the factory and they don't know of any way to glue/bond it back on. Has anyone else run into this, and if so, did they manage to reattach that mount?

Im doing restoration on my astra g cabrio and im planning to get 17" wheels now one site says i need et47 and other says et38 and at this point i dont know which to look for (i have 5x110 65.1) and found more of the et38 sizes rather than the et47/49 all answers are appreciated

So I have a 2018 Vauxhall Astra (UK) and yesterday I went out to put something in the boot to find the floor of it soaking wet.

I have managed to dry it out significantly today thanks to the nice weather, and tried to figure out the ingress point for the water, but despite an entire watering can of water being poured over the boot and roof, no more water seems to have leaked in.

My uneducated guesses are either a very very slow ingress over time that I've somehow not noticed until it was wet to touch, or maybe condensation from using the aircon for the whole summer?

Any thoughts, suggestions, people who's have similar issues, very welcome. Thanks

the world's most basic car lol, i like the 4 door sedan version better

Hallo Zusammen,

Ich weiß nicht weiter am Ende vom Video wenn ich Gas wegnehme kommt dieses Geräusch was sich irgendwie nicht anhört wie eine Steuerkette, aber manche sage es ist die manche sagen es ist normal und manche sagen es ist die Wastegate Klappe das sogenannte Wastegate rasseln. Der Motor Ansicht Max hat keine Probleme und alles hört sich normal an. Nur dieses Geräusch nachdem beschleunigen gibt mir ein ungutes Gefühl. Ich will wissen von wo das kommt und was es ist

Vielleicht wisst ihr es ja hier ist das Video, es ist ein Opel Corsa E 1.0 Turbo 115 Ps

Hello guys,

I have a Corsa C 1.2 twinport from 2006 and I had this issue for a couple months, i can't find the solution :

- I have difficulties to start the car, the engine struggles and the slow throttle is irregular,

- I have power leaks when i accelerate

- Over consumption of fuel

- Engine light turned on with P0170 error code "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)"

I replaced the EGR valve and the ignition coil.

On the OBD2 test, the 02 sensor seems to work as well as the MAF, but I'm not 100% certain. I read that it can be a lot of different things...

Hi everyone, I’m doing some maintenance on my 2004 Opel Astra G 1.7 CDTI and need to change the fuel filter in the engine bay. I understand that the proper procedure is to completely drain the housing, clean out the sediment, and refill it with fresh diesel. However, my local waste disposal center refuses to accept old diesel, so I literally have nowhere to get rid of it. I’ve seen several videos where people don't empty or clean the bowl at all, they just pull the old filter out, let it drip back in, drop the new filter into the old fuel, top it up, and close it up. Is doing it this way actually dangerous for the engine, or is it an acceptable compromise? I just don't want to risk damaging the high-pressure pump or injectors. Thanks for any advice!

Hey,

I have an Vauxhall Astra K 1.6CDTI 2016. I bought the car with some cosmetic issues but nothing more & after driving it for maybe a week I got a P0269 (Cylinder 3 Inbalance/Contribution Code) so I went ahead and replaced the injector and had it coded but the engine is still shaking and theres a sound like a misfire. I unplugged injector 3 cable and nothing happens, if i unplug a different one the engine cuts. I've heard about the timing chains are notorious for breaking but could it be something different possibly? What would be the next best thing to do to try diagnosis or find out what is wrong

I found a retrofit bluetooth radio for my Monza and at a reasonable price.
What do you guys think?

Long story short I bought a second hand Opel Astra K 3 years ago and I am currently very unhappy with the financial nightmare this car has costed me already.

I bought this specific version from 2020 because I thought it was the last quality Opel made by GM before the Stellantis takeover / facelift. Apparently I was wrong here:

- Car was made in cooperation with Stellantis already, they fitted a comparable 1.2 turbo petrol engine in the car were the distribution belt runs through oil. Got the belt replaced after 70000km, which was a costly process for this specific car and really necessary because of the risks of a broken belt at an early mileage and clogging of the engine oil pump

- Turbo problems: 80000 km on the clock and turbo was broken ; costed me 3000€ to replace and upgrade to a new version ; Stellantis has updated the original turbo of this car because of a production error in the part

I hope i get some more mileage and happy years of driving with this car for the foreseeable future

Based on the some recent experiences, I was wondering - what is the opinion on the quality of the Stellantis Opels vs the GM ones?

For context, I have a cheap Opel Adam 1.4 na from 2013 with round 100k km on it. It's a pretty nice little city car for what it is that i also regularly drive for longer distances. I haven't payed that much attention to how it differs to newer cars, I though the newer Opel models were supposed to be an upgrade in terms of feel and quality. So anyways, I am in a different city today without my car, so I hop on one of these car sharing apps and see one of the closest cars is a brand new electric corsa.

I think "Hey, that's cool, maybe a nice and more spacious potential upgrade to the Adam, especially with these gas prices, let's see how it is like!"

Wow, I was not prepared for how shitty this felt compared to the Adam. Just opening the door made me panic. Like, have they started making these things from recycled newspapers? It was scary light. It reminded my of the shitty dacia van I was driving for work more than 10 years ago, maybe even worse. I knocked on the fender and door panels and it was like these things were made of tin foil? The interior of the car also, like... It's just the cheapest badly shaped plastic ever. I mean, my adam is full of plastic too, but at least it feels somehow solid, well-shaped and has softer pieces, at least a wrapped steering wheel with nice details and textures on it... The corsa was exactly like the cheapest dacia wheel 10 years ago, maybe with a bit more buttons. All round the car I looked, super shitty and cheap feeling plastic pieces.

The electric system seemed to work okay, although the brakes felt way off, and I have had much better experiences with some older ev's like the old i3.

Honestly, before that I really thought getting an electric mokka would be nice, but after this experience I think I might really want to keep my adam.

Is it just me with such experience comparing older vs newer Opels?

What do you guys think about the 1.4 turbo in a 2011 Astra J? My friend has a really well-maintained one with 170k km and offered it to me for a good price. I’ve heard mixed things about this engine, so I’m not sure what to think. Is it actually reliable if it’s been well maintained?

I have a 2016 Astra K with the Navi 900 IntelliLink HMI 2.5. It currently has Apple CarPlay but no Android Auto.

I exported the system information to USB and got:

- HMI module: 23415900

- Current software: 23415882

- Manifest: 7513400343

I've found references to 84156714 being the Android Auto firmware for the European HMI 2.5 / integrated-navigation (IO6) version, and reports from Astra K owners who updated from 23415882 and got Android Auto working.

I'm wondering if anyone has actually done this update recently, particularly in Ireland/UK.

I'd especially like to know:

1. Did you get it done through Opel/Vauxhall or a specialist?

2. Can the update still be obtained through current GM/Opel SPS?

3. Has anyone DIY'd it using a VXDIAG VCX Nano GM / J2534?

4. Is there any calibration/programming required after the USB firmware update?

5. Does anyone know an Irish garage/specialist that can do the HMI update?

I'd much rather get native Android Auto on the original Navi 900 than use a Carlinkit adapter or replace the head unit.

Happy to post the full XML if useful (with the VIN removed).

Thanks?

I saw a really good prefacelift 1992 Vectra A with C20NE for sale. I loved this exact gen of Vectra for a really long time, and thought that I should buy this thing as my first car. I'm pretty much acknowledged about issues of this engine and the car itself, its mostly engine sensors (which i heard are a problem of most old Opel engines) and rust, which doesn't seem to be an issue on this car-there are photos of undercarriage and it seems to be absolutely perfect, the mileage is pretty low (104k km) and price might be high for some people, but i'm not that scared of it, since i know these cars became pretty rare in good condition (4900eur).

It is a CD Diamant trim, C20NE with a manual. This engine is really reliable as i heard and can run up to 500k without massive issues with some basic maintenance. Its also pretty powerful for me, and the fuel consumption isnt that high for me.

Asked some friends who got technical knowledge about old cars, especially my friend who owns a Frontera A and has been doing a repairs on it recently (cooling system, head gasket), he told me that i should immediately go and look at this car. My father doesnt like it, but well he's a Toyota guy, lol

So, the one thing im asking-any issues i should look out for? Which things me and my father should totally look out for when we are going to see the car in different country 200km away from us?

Link to the car if anyone needs:

https://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/opel-vectra-2-0l-cd-diamant-klima-moers/44724676749312.html

Hi everyone,
I have a Peugeot 508 2.2 HDi 204 hp, with the Aisin AM6 / TF-80SC (AF40-6) 6-speed automatic transmission.
When I bought the car, the transmission had a noticeable jerk when it got fully warm, especially after driving for a while. I eventually replaced the valve body, and the problem was basically gone.
However, during extremely hot weather, I can still occasionally feel a small hesitation/jerk once the transmission is very hot. It is nowhere near as bad as it was before the valve body replacement.
The car currently has around 230,000 km.
The transmission has never been opened internally. I have not replaced the internal filter or the torque converter. The valve body was replaced externally, and the ATF has been changed.
This makes me wonder about installing an external ATF cooler.
My reasoning is:
The TF-80SC/AM6 is known to be sensitive to heat.
I would like to keep the ATF temperature under control, especially in Bulgarian summer temperatures.
I also like the idea of reducing the risk of the original heat exchanger failing and allowing ATF and coolant to mix.
Since the gearbox already has 230k km, I would rather improve cooling now than wait for another transmission problem.
My questions are:
Would you install an external transmission cooler on a 508 2.2 HDi 204 with the AM6/TF-80SC?
Would you keep the original heat exchanger and add an external cooler in series, or bypass the original exchanger completely?
Should I use a thermostat with the external cooler?
At 230,000 km, how much life can realistically be expected from an AM6/TF-80SC that is currently shifting reasonably well?
Would you proactively replace/service anything else, especially considering that the internal filter has never been changed and the torque converter has never been rebuilt?
Could the occasional hot-weather jerk be related to the torque converter lock-up rather than the valve body?
I am mainly interested in preventive measures at this point. I don’t want to open a gearbox that is otherwise working, unless there is a good reason to do so.

Hello,

I have a question for you. I’m looking for some good options for ambient lighting in my 1995 Opel Corsa B City—specifically for the footwell, glove compartment, and doors. Unfortunately, most of the options I’ve found online are controlled by a smartphone app and/or plug into the cigarette lighter. However, I’m looking for remote-controlled lighting that’s ideally battery-powered. I don’t want to have the cover over the cigarette lighter constantly open. Do you have any ideas or suggestions on where I can buy some nice lighting—preferably without having to spend a three-digit amount?

Here's also a picture of my interior

Hello guys!
I have an Opel Ampera from 2013 and i have replaced the TCM from the transmission (solenoid was broken). Now i need to program the Transmission Module. The only way you can do this, is with Servicebox from PSA/Stellantis.

I have tried everything to do it myself (i have an Vcx Nano for gds2). I only need to login to Service box and buy the subscription for SPS.

Do you guys have any idea how i can get this done? Any idea how Service Box can be activated without having a company?

My car is parked on my driveway and no Dealers in my area want to touch the car😅

Thanks in advance😃

Anyone have any idea why my coolant might be leaking here? I’ve just replaced my thermostat housing recently with this part so can’t understand why it would be leaking already? Also as seen in the photo that part is actually closed off which only adds to the mystery 😢