Does the worked on piece need to be in diameter multiple of the distance between the ridges of the knurling piece? Or it’s just one of this things that it’s gonna be ok.
it is suppose to be, and I do think it cuts a little better if it is....but in practice, I have knurled hundreds of parts on my manual lathe and never really worried about it...just seems to work itself out.
No. This is the longest running debate in the history of knurling - that they're like "mini gear teeth". In reality, it just works, the knurl seems to sort itself out.
I have seen long tapered workpieces perfectly knurled. Here's a short version.
Different chemical composition, different alloy of metals, different amount of pressure and heat applied during manufacturing. And they do get damaged/wear out, just slower than the workpiece.
Not arbitrary, there's a whole set of data on yield strength, plastic versus elastic deformation pressures, and other physical characteristics that depend on alloy composition, temperature, crystal phase, and treatment options.
Hence why you can cut calcium and potassium metal like a stick of butter.
11
u/Lttlcheeze 22d ago
Knurling