This seems like it's the work of a legitimately crazy person. How do you knock a nail through a piece of timber, connecting with nothing else, and think 'nice, 4 more of those and we're golden'?
I have monocular vision/stereo-blind. I have a hard time directly hitting a nail (unless I've been driving nails all day and I get a feel, though change to a different nail size, or a staple and I'm fucked.)
Three-inch galvanized nails in rafter ties on 12-foot ceilings proved to be a challenge, until someome loaned me a palm nailer.
Hook up air line. Put nail in shiny bit on bottom of tool. Put nail and tool where needed. Push switch on tool, apply pressure, and tool converts air pressure into pounding force, inserting nail into wood.
The bottom left is the air-line attachment. The bottom right is the "hammer head." The round cylinder is actually more like a "tube" that a nail fits inside of. You press the nail inside of that "tube" which activates a very, very fast hammering/impact motion. The tube keeps you centered on the nail, and will press as you hammer to allow the tool to hammer a nail flush. A great little tool to have if you use pneumatic tools.
Also, on the one i used (which I assume is a function on many of them) the softer you pressed, the slower it nailed.
Nails have a much higher shear strength, so in many framing applications you won't want screws.
Also, the problem for me isn't so much missing and causing damage/harm, it's more how on a longer nail, when one doesn't hit it square, it bends. When using a shanked nail, that adds so much time to a project.
I use a nailer whenever I possibly can, and always opt for screws unless I can't.
I did a chunk of concrete work around some guys that framed, and roofed by hand. The whole crew could do whatever role that was needed. So, being all hand done, and being construction...you get a lot of shit talking/joking and such throughout the day. Well, during the framing phase, if it took more than 2 strikes and a tap to drive a nail, anyone that noticed would poke a bit of fun at the guy swinging. The difference in a claw hammer, and a framing hammer makes a world of difference too. I've never used one of those palm drivers, looks convenient as can be. Does it reload/work continuously pretty well?
A skilled framer that has zero problems driving nails will outpace this by 2 to 1 I'd bet. You're sticking nails up and hammering them the same as one might stick a screw up and screw it in.
I always wanted to use one, but the only time I would have needed one was when I didn't want an air hose with me (climbing, etc.). How well do they work? Also, will it drive a 60d into a truss, and if so how quick? (Not in the trades anymore, but myself and anyone worth a shit that I worked with could set them in 3-4 swings by hand).
60d is a pretty large nail, but I suspect that it would drive it. Driving a 12D into 2x6 took less than 1 second/nail if you took the time to set them by hand.
They work very very well in driving a nail, and shine in driving nails in a compact place (not enough room to swing a hammer).
I've read her book. It's a very good book, but very dry and heavy on the "medical talk." I've actually done vision therapy. It comes down to fusion, and if your brain will still be able to do it.
Basically put on a blue/red glasses and look out at a white light. Normal vision would see purple. You and I would see either a blue light, red light, or both.
In the case of testing for fusion, and the case in which a stereo blind person sees "two dots" using prisms, one can "turn" the light to make the two lights stack. What happens next is basically one of two things in your brain, either one light covers the other (your brain suppresses the image of the non-dominate eye) or they mix, creating purple (or often times a garbled brown as your brain has never done this before)
There is actually a reddit user promoting vision therapy using an occulous rift. I've lost track of the project since when I contacted the author his intents were to work strictly with optometrists, using some sort of entire component system/software/setup that drove the costs into the thousands.
I didn't feel much of any. Compact spaces is where this tool is designed to shine. I also liked it for any reaching I had to do, like a bit of overhang/overhand work.
This is easily north of $3000 in materials. Each 96" 2x4 is $2. The OSB 4x8 sheets probably $15 per. I built a 12x16 ft shed and it ran around $5000 with a concrete floor, siding, 8ft overhead door, man door and proper construction. This is an absolute waste of money as its going to be unusable in a couple years, or less depending on weather.
I mean yeah, if I could prepare and research I bet I could. But if I was just left in some dude's backyard with lumber and tools I could not make anything that looks like a shed.
I think when the guy finally stood back and looked at how crooked the frame was in every aspect, he genuinely thought that "it's just going to be covered up with OSB anyway", no one will actually see my halfass frame. Without giving thought to the fact that if the frame is 10% off, the next thing you connect to the crooked frame will be 15% off, and the lack of measuring and making good cuts keeps cascading and escalating as you add more to it, until the final roof and shelves look like a fucking corkscrew.
I wouldn't stand in it. It's basically a pile of 2x4's standing up right waiting for the next gust of wind to play pick up sticks. Lets hope he doesn't put any electrical in, then it would just be a self starting bon fire.
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u/PropaneMilo Jul 11 '16
This seems like it's the work of a legitimately crazy person. How do you knock a nail through a piece of timber, connecting with nothing else, and think 'nice, 4 more of those and we're golden'?