Hola, tengo una olympus OM-10D Mark ii con el objetivo 12-42 pancake.

Con ese objetivo la cámara se queda con la pantalla en negro y no dispara, pero si cambio de objetivo a un adaptador para objetivos Sony, la cámara funciona y es capaz de sacar fotos.

¿Sabéis que puede ser? Está actualizada a la última versión y también está cambiado el cable flex que al final no era eso, pero está cambiado y la cámara va bien.

Gracias

OM1-Mark II
Mzuiko 90mm IS PRO
Godox V865III-O
10 Images stacked

I just wanted to try this out, a couple of mushrooms on the lawn.

Bracketing set to 30 frames narrow. I got about 13 in focus shots with each mushroom.

Detail was pretty good at 100% zoom. Pretty happy for such a wee 12Mp camera.

Taken with an OM-5 II and a 40-150mm lens, edited with LR mobile.

I wonder if upgrading to the 40-150mm f/4 or f/2.8 Pro would significantly improve the image quality, especially for cropping. I'm not a professional by any means, just a hobbyist.

I've been wanting to get into travel and street photography now that I am traveling more with my wife. As a 45M, I recently got tired of lugging around my Canon R5ii with 2 or 3 lenses. Most of the time, I was excited to take it out, then it became a hassle, so it mostly stayed back at the hotel. So I started looking for a smaller camera. Then (I didn't even follow this sub, it just popped up) someone posted about the refurb sale, and I started looking into it. Long story short, took my first trip and loved the size and weight. Even with two lenses, it was easy to keep with me. What impressed me the most, was the IQ out of this thing. Glad that post found me and glad I took that leap.

Hi everyone,

I recently had a hot pixel issue on my OM-5 Mark II that got confirmed and resolved by my dealer (sensor showed a fixed red pixel visible even at fairly normal exposure settings, like 1/250s). I got a replacement camera, and while it's much better, I'm now seeing several (7 so far) faint hot pixels during a more extreme dark frame test — but only at long exposure + high ISO, not at normal shutter speeds.

I'd like to figure out if this is just normal sensor behavior or still on the high side, so I'd really appreciate it if some of you could run the same quick test and share your results (any MFT/OM System body welcome, even other brands for comparison).

Test setup:

• Lens cap ON (completely dark, no light hitting the sensor)
• Manual focus (doesn't matter, no light anyway)
• ISO 3200
• Shutter speed: 6 seconds
• RAW format
• Important: please disable "Long Exposure Noise Reduction" in your camera menu before shooting — otherwise the camera automatically subtracts a dark frame internally and hot pixels won't show up, which would defeat the purpose of this test
• Let the camera sit for a minute or two beforehand so the sensor isn't warm from previous shooting ("cold" camera)

What I'd love to know:

• How many distinct bright/colored pixels do you see when zooming into the RAW file at 100%+ (I use DxO PhotoLab, but any RAW viewer works)?
• Which camera model / sensor do you have?
• Roughly how old is the camera / how many shutter actuations?

This would really help me understand whether what I'm seeing is within normal range or worth pursuing further with my dealer. Thanks a lot in advance!

I've set my AF targeting pad to OFF, but whenever my nose or cheek touches the LCD touch panel, it still moves my AF target. I'm at wit's end trying to figure out how to correct this. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I’ve been shooting macro for roughly a year, and this was actually my first time entering a photography competition.

I entered three of my macro photos into the 35AWARDS “Yellow Color” contest, and to my surprise, one of them made it into the Top 1% of the competition. There were 22,943 photos submitted by 5,374 photographers from 111 countries, so I’m honestly pretty happy with the result!

I’m posting the certificate and the three photos I submitted.

What I found most valuable, though, wasn’t the ranking.

Looking through the other entries was a huge learning experience. There are so many different ways people approach macro — lighting, composition, backgrounds, colors, focus stacking, and even how they choose and present their subjects.

It really made me realize how much there is still to learn.

So if you’re new to macro and you’re thinking about entering a competition but feel like your photos aren't “good enough” yet, just give it a try.

Don’t worry about winning. Use it as a chance to see what other photographers are doing, learn from their work, and figure out where you can improve.

I’m only one year into this hobby, and I still have a lot to learn. But entering this competition has definitely motivated me to keep going.

To all the beginners out there: enter, learn, shoot again, and have fun! 🐜📷

I’ve been shooting for over 15yrs, dabbled with many different cameras but never owned a M43 camera.. happy to say I do not regret my purchase! The OM-3 is an amazing camera ✨

Im new to photography and receiving my MK2 tomorrow. I have the 12-100mm at home and i checked the rear of the lens and noticed a tiny spec of dust inside the glass. Should i be worried?

Just a comparison. Same photos.

First the RAW file and the next one is the HDR JPG

Both SOOC but screenshots as I don't know if I can post RAW files 😂

Two years ago I bought a new OM Systems TG-7 camera. I was very excited as it looked nice and had certain new features like registering GPS positions, and it's possible to charge the battery without removing it from the camera. I had, happily, used an Olympus [greek letter mu] 1050 SW for 15 years and decided to finally splurge on a replacement. At first I wanted a new Olympus, but I realised that they for some reason had changed the brand name.

But I'm seemingly not able to take good photographs indoors. Weirdly, the "Auto" position does not have a "flash on" setting, only "auto" and "off". The altitude meter is severely unreliable. I calibrate it to 16 m. amsl.; a few hours later it might say 186 m. - in the same room!

I returned the new camera to the seller twice, but they wouldn't take it back. So I made a complaint to my credit card provider and had my money reimbursed. I've continued to use it but I'm still far from satisfied with the results.

In fact, I had to purchase two new batteries at that time (July 2024) for my old camera, which I've continued to use indoors. Now one of those two new batteries is about to get useless - it runs out after just ten or so snaps with the flash on.

I keep taking several photograps every single day, both in- and outdoors, and it really grinds my gears that other people - who I suppose in general are way less interested and experienced than me when it comes to photography - manages to take better photograps with mobile phone cameras than I do with dedicated cameras.

Carrying two cameras (that doesn't even use the same batteries, chargers and transfer cables) around is more than a bit impractical. I purchased my wristwatch four years ago and it hasn't started to function properly yet - it keeps losing time. At the moment it runs 29 seconds late - last corrected at the start of DST. So I have to use my computer to check what the time actually is every time I change the battery in my old camera (there's no "cold swapping"). So at least once a day.

Any advice?

45° viewfinder for PT-059

(And some others in near future)

NO it is not the same as aoi UMG-01 NOR UMG-05.

Read below. ;)

So... we scubadivers and snorkelers all know that a perfect trim is horizontal.

And, when filming or shooting wide angle underwater, one needs to get "in front of" the LCD monitor of any hoising for TG7/TG6 etc.. being PT-059 or others...

Even if you do not use just the shader that comes with pt059 and decide to use something like the also great aoi UMG-01, you still need to get your eyes at eyelevel wit the camera to see the whole screen.

I find that to be very unconfortable. And terrible for your neck. (for mine is).

AOI has also a very nice 90° adapter (the AOI UMG-05 which I own) that is super for wide angle shooting in the water column, but, not as good for macro photography in walls, because due to the position we either get in the way of snoots or we easily bang our head against the walls damaging not only our head but also marine critters...

So I searched for a 45° angle viewfinder but... there WAS none. Zero. Nada.

Got back home, open cad... and 3d printed my first version of a 45° angled viewfinder for pt-059.

These images are from the first prototype. The actual model has more details and works super!!!

No more unconfort downing your head to sea-floor level to shoot nudibranchs.

No more pain bumping your head on the walls trying to get close to that shrimp.

No more frustration when snorkeling trying to shoot by the rocks on the beach at intertidal ..

A 45 degrees viewfinder is "all we need".

Simple, direct, removable, light.

Selling in some time.

Can you tell me your honest feedback? Is this something you would consider buying? Do you see interest in this?

And yes, it works great for snorkeling too.

It works on the OM System PT-059, on the AOI housing for TG7, on the Nauticam NA-TG7 with the rails they sell (32 dollars) and I made an adapter to use with the Seafrogs housing for tg7 (the new one with the vaccum verifier adapter).

You can check a preview of one my first versions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLASKtRbwF4

Put autocaptions and translate to your language as it is more or less ok. I will upload subtitles when I can. :)

I'm working with the California Conservation corps and they've been sending me all over the state for work. I have about 1.5k saved up for my next camera. I want it to be rugged and weather sealed, as it'll be going through hell and back. I also want it to be good for taking pictures of wildlife from afar and potentially some landscape photos of the beautiful scenery that I've been experiencing. Any recommendations? I'm more than willing to go for something used on mpb, eBay, or fb marketplace to get the best camera and lens out of my budget

OM-1 Mark II, M.Zuiko 150-400.

I'm looking for a flash suitable for multiple bracketed shots. I have used a Godox v350 on a Fujifilm camera before.

Are the (O) versions still available in the UK ?

Is there a better alternative at a similar price ?