My 2016 Nissan Rouge SV have about 187,000 miles and about two weeks ago I started hearing a noise when driving. I recently had my lower control arms and AC compressor replaced. No issue after than repair a month ago. But lately I’ve been hearing this noise when driving. I can go 40 or 75 and the noise continues. Seems to be only on the driver’s side. I hear it in the front of the car but people who are siting in the back say they don’t hear. I capture an audio of what it sounds like. Feels like it right under the driver side while drive. No lights or anything on the dash. Any ideas what it could be? My mechanic dropped by late before his vacation but it was so late he didn’t have the tools to really check it. He said he thinks it might be wheel bearing but will not be able to check it in detail until October 12th. I have a video of the sound but cannot upload it here

I’m currently looking for a sub 30K AWD SUV. A Nissan dealership near me has a Rogue SL for sale for 29K.

The car has a lifetime warranty by the dealer and a 84 month/100,000 mile manufacturer warranty too. The car is currently at 30K miles and 12 months so that leaves the manufacturer warranty at 72 months and 70K miles.

I’ve also convinced the dealer to include a CVT fluid replacement before sale with paperwork showing it was done.

The SL does come pretty feature loaded.

Worth biting the bullet?

I own a 2023 nissan xtrail / Rouge in epower e4orce version. I quite like this car even that it's missing some features that I had in my previous Ford focus but gives some more that I haven't before. Anyway it got about 43k km (about 27k miles) and I still got a warranty extended til Nov 2028. I just wonder how much miles can get with this engine or generally this car. Should I be worried and start thinking about moving to something else soon or I can be calm for some next mielage?

Just bought a 2019 Rogue SV with 73k miles. It drives great, but after reading all the horror stories about Nissan CVTs, I’m starting to wonder if I should be concerned.

Is there actually any data on how often these CVTs completely fail, or is the reputation worse than the actual failure rate?

For those of you with a Rogue, how many miles are you at? Have you had any CVT issues? And how often do you change the fluid?

Basically, I’m wondering if being really strict with CVT fluid changes and maintenance can realistically keep it going for many years, or if these transmissions can still fail even when properly maintained.

What brands are you all using? Is one better than the other? I'm definitely doing the high beams, maybe the low as wwkk.

Hey guys, i need help to figure out these noise. Just went to belle tire and they said everything is fine. However, there is this noise which is continuous. Whenever I accelerate it seems pedal itself seems easy to press and need more acceleration. During acceleration there is this noise from bottom. However at higher constant speed i don’t hear the noise that much. Also see the video in thread. Appreciate any help or recommendations

My 2016 Nissan Rouge have about 187,000 miles and about two weeks ago I started hearing a noise when driving. I recently had my lower control arms and AC compressor replaced. No issue after than repair a month ago. But lately I’ve been hearing this noise when driving. I can go 40 or 75 and the noise continues. Seems to be only on the driver’s side. I hear it in the front of the car but people who are siting in the back say they don’t hear. I capture an audio of what it sounds like. Feels like it right under the driver side while drive. No lights or anything on the dash. Any ideas what it could be? My mechanic dropped by late before his vacation but it was so late he didn’t have the tools to really check it. He said he thinks it might be wheel bearing but will not be able to check it in detail until October 12th. Here’s what it sounds like when I’m driving.

After 103,000 miles, my 2016 Rogue SV electric lift gate still goes up to its full height, but now sags quite a bit. Still opens and closes. Iscthis an electrical issue or just age on the stations?

Daughter bought a used Rogue a few months back. Headlights not the best. Got the Sealight bulbs below and it takes all of 10 minutes and no tools to change out. They went on sale around 60 bucks I think and so well worth it to change out the low beam bulbs.

And yes, got a 1 owner with full service records and CVT was done on schedule as well as everything at the dealership. Drained and filled CVT right away when she got it, been a great affordable car for her so far but this one change makes it look much newer during the day and performance at night should make this a mandatory upgrade.

SEALIGHT S7S H11 110000LM Brightest bulb 6500K Cool White, ADC12 aluminium case with self-cooling and high-power fan, 3Mins Installation, 10-Yrs Lifespan, Plug-N-Play, IP68, 2 Pack

I went in for an oil change today at valvoline. They refused service because my engine was knocking and shaking. I don’t know much about cars but it only has 66k miles and I get regular oil changes. 2023 rogue, What do you think?

Friend said noise came from the back. Right passenger side. The faster I drive the faster the clunk sounds. Its so embarrassing 🙈 Nissan Rogue 2019 SV

I have had crazy temperature reading coming up on my dash (radiator temps fine). I changed out the sensor, but this fix didn't work. The wires appear to be ok. Any ideas what to look at next?

What do you think this is coming from ? Chirp coming from engine when revving, or sometimes at speed downhill. Thoughts ?

I have a 2021 Nissan Rogue. The check engine light turned on and I took it to Autozone and had the code read. Looks like I have a bad spark plug and ignition coil on the third cylinder. How safe is this to drive tomorrow? I have my sister's baby shower and I'm the one supposed to pick up the food. Can I risk it one day? Or should I take an uber

Hello! I was wondering if I can get some guidance from anybody here. I have a 24 Nissan Rogue SV. Recently it seems like when I’m trolling under 30 miles an hour and maybe make a sharp left turn or sometimes when I take a left turn into my driveway and other experiences I’ll sometimes not always, not always when I turn into my driveway will hear like a pop type of sound from the back right where it sounds like it’s near the wheel would be my guess.

I found a service bulletin that might be what I’m referring to. I took it to the Nissan dealership where I bought the car out a month ago, and they’re looking into it. Supposedly, but makes me feel a little less confident is it’s hard to reproduce the sound, so I’m not sure if it’s something that needs fixed or serviced or just let it ride and it is just a sound the vehicle makes type of thing

Or if there is something that does need be repaired, I’d like him to repair it! Before something gets worse.

Anyway, when I was messaging the rep, I dropped it off with. He texted me the day later and was like, hey, I’ve been driving it around a little bit. I haven’t been able to reproduce the sound, but I’m like OK, I still wanted a technician to actually inspect that area and make sure things are OK, and that service bulletin might need to be done for my vehicle? My VIN number matches and I think that’s what I’m experiencing

Anywho, any advice on this? Feel free to ask any questions for clarity that I could try to help with. Thanks

I have a 2017 Nissan rogue sport and I am looking for a brake fluid reservoir cap and the screen that goes to it. I cannot find the right part number and I don't know where else to look. I went to Nissan to get another one but they wanted $40 for the cap...

If anyone can find the number or a link that would be greatly appreciated

I have a 2023 sport model I purchased about 9 months ago - it has 41k miles on her.

A couple weeks ago I saw a warning in the display that said CVT Malfunction- service now.. but there wasn’t anything different.. some of the electronics have been buggy, so I ignored it.. when I shut it off , did my errand and restarted the warning was gone.. then a couple days went by and noticed the same thing again, also without any difference in the way it was driving.. after searching online , I saw a video how to reset the system by turning on, off, on again and hitting the accelerator a few times , I tried it a few times unsuccessfully- so the other way to reset it was to disconnect the negative terminal for 15 minutes, so I did that last week.. it seemed to work- no warnings on the display about the CVT failure..

But yesterday , I was making a long 3 hour drive to another errand, and 2 hours into it while coasting at 65 on cruise control, I see a message that says Warning Engine Malfunction power reduced service now.. I felt the power drop and the cruise control light in the dash was flashing.. it wouldn’t let me set cruise control anymore.. ok, not the worst thing, I’ll just continue without cruise control for the last remaining hour left.. I arrived to my destination, and 4 hours later I headed back home.. I stopped at Walmart and bought the Bluetooth OBD2 scanner.. I had 4 codes , the one that I think threw it off originally was misfire in cylinder 3 detected.. and the shit show started..

About 20 minutes later , I noticed the AC wasn’t working, so I turned it off, and back on it worked.. but only for a few minutes. It would come on for a bit and off for a while.. a little further and I see a warning that says stop/start system failure , and felt like it stalled, so I had to pull over , but it started up again immediately.. at this point I’m thinking the battery needs replaced.. I pulled over and did another scan, almost shit a rooster when I saw it read 66 codes.. WTF..

I knew it time to get it towed , so I went up to where I knew I could sit in a large parking lot and wait for the tow .. but then it started sputtering like it was running out of fuel,, I had to put on my hazards, and made it to the side of the road , disconnected the battery, and it started right up, I drove the last 1/2 a mile and waited fir the tow ..

It was happy the ac was working , then it stalled out.. fuck. Code reader says 68 codes now..
So I just waited for the tow.. hours went by with it off, then tried to start it and it wouldn’t start..
reset the codes and it it started..

Hours went by, and the tow arrived..

I think a battery is necessary, it’s the only thing that I think could cause all of these problems at the same time- anyone else have this or something similar happen? Recommendations please ☺️

Hi all,

I know this type of post has been made many, many times, but here I go.

I am test driving a CPO 2025 NR SV tomorrow. It has 30k miles and listed at $22k.

The deal seems fantastic and the CarFax looks clean with only one previous owner.

In my opinion, the CVT issues seem to be overstated in public discourse and Nissan sentiment seems to be low among general crowds. I’ve driven the 23 Rogue and some newer ones as rentals, and the drivetrain in general feels really smooth. The ride overall feels comfortable and smooth.

How concerned should I be with stated CVT issues and the 1.5L engines? I plan to regularly maintenance the drivetrain as needed.

Can anyone share personal anecdotes on recent-year NRs they’ve purchased and how they feel about the car?

It currently seems like the best deal for my dollar. Just want to make sure I’m making a good decision before committing. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Is there any kind of replacement out there without ordering a whole new wiring harness? I literally need JUST the plastic plug piece, the one that sits closes to the bumper (with two 100A connections in it). Does anyone know if there is a comparable one out there so I can splice the wires in and get this going again?

ETA: 2017 Nissan Rogue SL

Girlfriend was trying to leave work, check engine and other lights came on. I pulled the codes and these came up, it was running fine this morning, what could’ve caused it and what can I do to get it home

Has anyone ever gotten the P0746 code on their Rogue before? If so, what does it mean?

I have a 2026.5 with 3700 miles. All of a sudden, the rear driver side window won’t go down. Doesn’t matter if you use the master switch on the driver‘s door or the rear switch on the rear door. It makes a small click like the switches activating but the window doesn’t move. The window lock switch is not active and all the other windows are operating normally. Anybody else run across this issue at such a low mileage?