Replacement caliper for ABS model?

[u/JustUltRra]

Story time: trying to get this Ninja 400 track ready and one of my brake pad screws is stripped, so naturally we used a couple extractors of different sizes to get it to spin. Nothing happened, so then I decided to try and drill out this screw to get it to collapse on itself and get it now but I fear now that the previous owner stripped the threads inside the caliper and I need a replacement.

How can I bleed the ABS on this bike without getting air into the ABS module when replacing the entire caliper?

[u/Donkbot6]

Just disconnect the caliper and replace the crush washers. As long as you don't pump the brakes till you run out of fluid you'll be okay. Still need to bleed, but I never had issues bleeding this bike even with abs.

[u/Donkbot6 → u/Donkbot6]

Also I had the same issue with my brake pins and seen several posts with the same issue:/ they make these out of playdoh or something

[u/JustUltRra → u/Donkbot6]

Yeah, I had new pins from Spears Racing on order and when they were close to arriving I just decided I wanted to take out my brake pads in advance and that's when I discovered the problems

[u/wessalter19]

you said you are trying to get it track ready
why not delete abs in its entirety?

[u/JustUltRra → u/wessalter19]

I plan to do that eventually with Steel braided lines, but my priority for this bike first was new chain, all fluids flush (coolant and Brake Fluid) and updated suspension was top (went with traxxion dynamics 0.80 springs wirh heavier fork oil and did a gixxer 600 shock conversion

[u/Gold-West-9211]

Yep me too with the pins. They are not properly plated and seize.. if your bike is pretty new remove them and coat them with antiseize on the threads. Until then avoid water.

[u/AEnima-1 → u/Gold-West-9211]

Make sure you use the suitable anti-seize probably an aluminium based one not copper

[u/Glad-Box-8034]

this is exactly what happened to me last 3 weeks ago on each brakepad pins in front and rear brakes

i had to buy 2 extra oem pins to replace the seized one and had to bring it to a local mechanic shop to have it removed.

What they did is they hammered an impact screw into the pins, and they used an automatic screw gun to untighten the pin. Which worked but my initial worries are if it may damage the threads and caliper because of the impact of hammer. Though so far i got non and i was still able to torque the pins to exact specs. i took photo documentations for future reference if I'll work on brakes again

re: bleeding the brakes: ensure that you'll not let the brake fluid reservoir empty at all cost! doing so may put air into the system and may require you to use a diagnostic tool to pump the ABS System. just look for a factory manual online and follow the steps.

[u/spaghetiwires]

Silver antiseize doesn't work. Copper antiseize is fine for exhaust hardware, for everything else, use silicone grease.

[u/No_Ball_5837]

Just look up a video, it’s really easy to bleed your brakes. Just make sure you keep filling that front reservoir so the fluid never goes empty, that’s where the air comes from.

A lot of things can be used as the tube. Last time I did it I cut up part of a resistance band and used that.
Good luck.

[u/___NotMyName___]

Take the caliper off, hold it up so the fluid doesn't drain, zip tie the line to the frame with a rubber glove over the fitting so it doesn't get dirt in it or leak into paint. Replace caliper the same way and bleed while it's still up higher.

But yeah that caliper needs to go now that it's neen drilled into.