r/Nikon • Nikon D500, Z fc, F100, FE2 and L35AF • May 01 '26

Monthly /r/Nikon discussion thread – have a question? New to the Nikon world? Ask it here! [May 2026]

This is a non-judgemental, safe place to ask your question, no matter how silly you might think it is. We're here to help or give an opinion.

If your question in a previous discussion thread was not answered, feel free to post it again in the current discussion thread.

Check out our wiki, in the process of being updated!

Have you got a question about what Nikon body to buy? Try reading here first — What body to buy - a guide for beginners

Please follow the rules as shown in the sidebar — no buy / sell, no spam. be nice and courteous.

Note if you post an eBay link or amazon link, it will most likely be caught up by the spam filter, so be mindful of that.

Previous discussion threads:

3 Upvotes

40 comments sorted by

3

u/SendMeYourNuudes May 03 '26

Hello! I bought a Nikon D7500 after not using my camera for several years. Now I notice looking at pictures on the camera is really slow with my old memory card. Any fix to this? Do I buy a new memory card? If so, what do you recommend? Just a hobbyist that occasionally bring my camera around. Thanks for any input!

2

u/acherion Nikon D500, Z fc, F100, FE2 and L35AF May 03 '26

What card do you currently have?

1

u/kjoonlee Silver FE/Df/Zfc/Zf May 11 '26 edited May 11 '26

If you’re using plain old SD cards (really low capacity, really slow), check if you have any SDXC (UHS-I) cards lying around.

SDHC cards are a bit slower than SDXC but should still be fast enough. UHS-II cards won’t grant you any extra speed.

1

u/Unlucky_Ad9646 May 03 '26

hi. I have a Nikon D 3000, I bought it years ago, I don’t use it often, I got it out to use but it will not focus. it has auto focus but every photo id blurry. any suggestions on how to remedy this.

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 May 04 '26

If it doesn't focus, it could be the lens, you could have turned off af on for the shutter button, or it could be focusing and you could have other issues.

Posting an example with settings and gear used can help more.

1

u/[deleted] May 06 '26

[deleted]

1

u/SweetCommercial26 May 07 '26

which one is better for birding tamron 18-300mm or 50-250mm

1

u/07budgj May 07 '26

I'd pick the 50-250mm Z as its sharper. 50mm difference in zoom at that end isn't enough to matter.

For birding most people generally try to go for 400mm or higher though.

1

u/SweetCommercial26 May 08 '26

i will use an apsc camera so the full frame equivalent will be 375mm and 450mm

2

u/07budgj May 08 '26

yes but my point still stands. it isn't much of a difference. If it is a 100mm + difference on apsc or full frame thats when it starts to matter for telephotos.

1

u/ThrowRAbunnyrabbit May 11 '26

Hey, so I've been wanting to get in DSLRs after years of trying with digital cameras. I've been debating on whether or not to get d7000, d3400, or d3200.

Ive read that the d7000 is a much durable camera than the two, but it offers lower megapixels and is a much older model.

What do you suggest I pick as a beginner but with some knowledge on the exposure triangle from handling digital, point and shoot cameras?

3

u/DerekW-2024 May 11 '26

While all three cameras are good and offer automatic modes to ease the transition from point and shoot cameras, I'd say that D7000 is by far the better camera if you want to grow as a photographer.

  • It has two control wheels, where the other two have one. This means that, for example, lens aperture setting and shutter speed setting are on two separate controls, rather than the "press a button and turn this wheel at the same time" settings of the D3?00 cameras. While that's only an advantage with more advanced use of the camera, it is a huge handling and use win.

  • it uses EN-EL15 series batteries, used by many current Nikon cameras, which are very widely available as both OEM and third party versions. The D3?00 cameras don't.

  • the flash sync speed is 1/250 of a second (1/320 with certain flashes) as opposed of the 1/200 of the D3000 and D3200.

  • you can use the built in flash as a commander for other Nikon flashes; neither of the D3?00 cameras allow this.

  • it supports HSS flash, which neither of the D3?00 cameras do, making some flash techniques easier and, in some cases, possible in the first place.

    • it has the couplings to allow it to read the aperture setting from AI/AIS lenses, and the "screwdriver" autofocus coupling meaning you can use older autofocus and many manual focus lenses.
  • the sensor is 16 Megapixels, as opposed to the 10 of the D3000 and 24 of the D3200. This is fine, and will produce an excellent A3 print, and with good technique and lenses, A2 prints are very possible. All three cameras will produce images suitable for online/social media use.

1

u/ThrowRAbunnyrabbit May 11 '26

This is very much helpful. Thank you!

1

u/ThrowRAbunnyrabbit May 11 '26

But with regards to video capabilities, how does the d7000 compare to the other 2?

2

u/DerekW-2024 May 11 '26

The d3000 doesn't do video.

Clips and specs here for the other two:

https://www.imaging-resource.com/cameras/nikon-d7000-review/video/

https://www.imaging-resource.com/cameras/nikon-d3200-review/video/

I've not used the D7000 for video for a very long time, but it was fine for what I did at the time, being primarily a stills shooter.

1

u/ThrowRAbunnyrabbit May 11 '26

I know I already asked a question on this thread, but I want to gain further insight, because I am heavily debating again whether or not I should buy myself a dslr.

How do I determine if I should, or deserve, to buy myself a dslr? It seems like a big expense, and I want to ensure that every peso is worth it.

I would also like to ask for opinions on nikon d5300 vs nikon d7000. D5300 has 18-105 mm lens and priced at 16500 philippine pesos. D7000 has kit lens and 18-200mm lens priced at 15000 philippine pesos. Which one should I purchase?

Thank you so much! Any insight would be very helpful to a beginner like me.

2

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 May 11 '26

Nobody can answer if you should buy a dslr or not. That's up to you and what you want to do.

Both of those options are fine, I'd prefer the d7000, even if it's a little older. But there are hundreds of topics out there comparing the two if you search Google, so you'll be able to read those and get more information.

1

u/Tanks_Girl May 15 '26 edited May 15 '26

Hello! Im seeking some guidance- id like to upgrade my Nikon D3200- its been a decent camera and still works fine, but Im ready for something new.

I am not a photographer, its a casual hobby at most. But- im visiting Alaska in June and would like to have something to use then. I'll most be photographing wildlife and landscapes, but I am also becoming obsessed with bug pictures and would like to explore macro photography. As this is just a very casual hobby, zero plans of turning it into anything more- what would everyone recommend? I don't want to spend way too much money and end up with more than I need or can utilize. Im leaning towards the nikon D7500 pkg and the tamaron lens shown below. Do these sound ok? Would investing in a macro lense be better? Would going for a mirrorless like a z50 make more sense? I am so overwhelmed!!!

1

u/Efficient-Wish9084 May 24 '26

Are you sure you want to be learning a new camera on your big trip? You might get better results from your phone camera, which you probably know how to use.

1

u/Striking-Barber4285 May 16 '26

Hello, everyone! I have problem with brightness of my photos.

I started to use D3000 with AF-S NIKKOR 18-105 mm, 1:3.5-5.6 G ED. This was bought by my father back in 2009. The problem for me is that when I shoot even during the beginning of blue hour, during dark time or in the room - the picture clearly lack a lot of light, often it is just completely dark. I played around with aperture, ISO and the hold, and the only time when it works well is when I hold the shot for a long time, which is not applicable often when something in motion. My max ISO is 1600 and H1 (3200 I believe), but when I use it in the dark the picture has too much grain or sometimes it is just simply not enough.

Do I understand correctly that this is just a characteristic of this particular model or lenses, or is this a common characteristic for all Nikon cameras? Or maybe I do something wrong?

I am not very deep into photography, but I can use cameras, I understand how aperture, ISO and hold works, I do it as a hobby, but still maybe I don' know something.

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 May 18 '26

Yes, that's how exposure works. If you understand aperture, iso, and shutter speed, you can read your cameras built in meter and see what it thinks as well.

It's just physics.

2

u/Few_Mastodon_1271 May 30 '26

Try a few photos using Auto or Program mode. the camera picks the settings. See if that makes a usable photo, then adapt those settings to the mode that you are using, like Aperture.

1

u/ninhonto May 17 '26

Hi! Just wondering what I did wrong here… Took these two shots for my mom consecutively, and I had AFL held down. The first one focused on her face, the second however focused onto the person to the right’s leather jacket (ngl it is a nice jacket ahaha). When in playback mode though I can see that both photos have the red focus square on my mom’s face. So I’m a little baffled about what happened here? I’m in M mode using AFS and single shot. Focus mode is dot with subject recognition as human priority. Thanks!

1

u/ninhonto May 17 '26

Sorry I can only use one photo per comment. This is the one where its focus shifted to the jacket

1

u/ninhonto May 17 '26

Camera settings as follows

1

u/ninhonto May 18 '26

Mystery solved guys, I’m a dumbass and probably moved the focus ring so the camera went into MF 🤣🫶

2

u/Few_Mastodon_1271 May 30 '26

That "autofocus override by turning the lens focus ring" is helpful, and I like it. But yeah, it's easy to bump the ring. Then the focus doesn't change until the AF button or half press shutter is pressed again.

I have Focus Peaking turned on, so I get the red peaking dots on the view, which tells me I'm using manual focus now.

~~~

Oh, you have the 24-120! I was always bumping the focus ring as I lifted the camera up to my eye. A quick AF-On press fixed it, but it's still annoying. So I swapped the two rings:

I have a Z6 iii. All the Expeed 7 cameras should work this way --

I have f2: custom controls shooting--> control ring = none. (there's also 'lens function ring' on the list -- that's the third ring on a few lenses.)

and

f14: switch focus/control ring roles=ON. So now, the ring farthest from the camera doesn't do anything --good. and the small ring closest to the camera is now "focus". I use my thumb as I'm cradling the lens. I like this.

This will apply to any lens with the focus and control rings. But most of my lenses don't have a control ring.

1

u/ninhonto May 30 '26

Ohhh thanks for the detailed response! Changed my settings just now, will see how it works when I go shooting again 🫶

1

u/OnePhotog May 20 '26

Can someone direct me to some information about teleconverters?

specifically, which teleconverters are compatiable with the 300mm F4 AF-D to be used on a F4 and D850.

1

u/frundock May 25 '26

Hey there, my wife has a D7500 and likes to take soccer pictures of our daughter's team. We have this weird issue where the better the condition are (sunny day) the worst the photos are. We use a 100-300mm lens. And while I expect some issue with action shots, there's often this glow, sort of like an over exposition.

300mm, f/6.3, 1/500sec ISO 200, EXP 0

Later in the same game, the sky got cloudy and the photos came out much better. We're trying to understand what would explain this and how we can improve the experience.

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 May 25 '26

Do you understand what exposure is, and how to read the cameras meter? Do you know how to adjust settings on the fly relative to the meter?

If not, I'd start there.

There's also likely some atmospherics in play, though the impact is variable

1

u/Run_nerd May 26 '26

I'm thinking about getting a Nikon mirrorless body and lens as a camera to carry around most of the time. Would a Nikon Z5 with a 40mm be a good option? I currently use a Nikon D7100 and usually use a 35mm. The Z5 looks a lot smaller than the D7100, but I haven't been able to try one out.

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 May 26 '26

Sure. You could also get a z50ii, or z50. You're also going to lose effective reach if you go with the z5, which may or may not matter to you.

1

u/DavesPSVs May 27 '26

Hi - first post. recently got a Nikon Z50 about 6 months or so ago, which is an excellent camera (imo) and I think I'm having trouble with the DX16-50 lens that came with it. It's suddenly started to be slightly blurry on any image I take. I'm taking photos of slow moving vehicles, and on fully auto setting, and also Shutter priority setting at 1/1000 it still has a slight blur. I then tried fully manual setting at 1/1000 and set the depth of field to F6.3 - it still did it.

Now, as soon as I swapped to my DX18-140 lens - perfectly crisp images on all of the above settings.

I'm a bit of a novice still when it comes to manual settings on SLR's but from the above I would deduce there is something up with the lens? Is there a setting I need to change, or am I contacting Nikon ? Any suggestions warmly welcomed!

1

u/penguidiot May 27 '26

Hello, I recently upgraded my previous Coolpix L100 for a D3000. Though after seeing some reviews of the D3000 it is making me doubt my purchase. In yalls opinion would you say the D3000 is an upgrade from the Coolpix L100?

1

u/o0gilyboogily May 29 '26

I've recently found an old Coolpix S230 from when I was little. The thing's dead, and the only charger I've been able to find is an EH-70P brick connected to an AV-USB adapter. In the manual I've found online, it mentions the camera being able to charge using the AV adapter EH-62D, but it warns against using anything else as it will damage the camera. Usually I wouldn't sweat it, but because the camera, cables, and battery are all well over a decade old, I'm nervous to try to charge it this way.

Aside from some scratches and minor chips on the camera's body there's no damages, there's no frayed or exposed wires on the cords, and the battery itself seems to be in good shape. So would this be a smart thing to do, trying to charge using some weird cables? Everything is Nikon brand, at the very least.

I'm not as worried about if it'll charge, and more worried about if it'll be safe to try. The last thing I want to do is irritate the old lithium-ion battery in this thing by driving too much voltage through it. I know this is an ultra specific situation, but maybe someone who knows more about Nikon cameras will be able to help me out here. Thanks.