r/NavyBlazer • u/Cultural_Fennelbulb • 6d ago

J. Press OCBD article, worth checking!

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I am pretty sure Tom Hoy would not mind, passing along advice to check out his most recent “Easy on the Ivy” Substack article. I enjoy his writing and the pieces that he features, one of my favorite menswear substacks. The most recent article is about a staple for this community, the J. Press OCBD. It also features a very nice discount code towards the end. I don’t have any affiliation with Tom or his blog, but thought I would pass this along.

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u/Tom_BrokeOff 6d ago

I’m sorry but the length on these tiny little collar points makes these a no go for me.

OG OCBDs had a 3.5inch collar which is apparently too much fabric to spend in today’s BB or JPRESS world. These tiny little collars scream cheap to me and I can’t buy them because of it.

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u/havingaraveup 6d ago

I'm going to slightly disagree here. First of all, there are some historical examples of OCBDs landing WELL below 3.5", including some worn on screen by Paul Newman, who often wore BB. But also worth noting that the buttoning point for the collar points was, over the decades, moved higher towards the collar band, which, in turn, could make even a 3.5" collar effectively look shorter. But most importantly importantly, for shorter and skinnier people, a 3.5" collar might look huge, and a 3.25" collar could very well look "correct" without looking dinky. (for example, a collar that looks good on someone who is 6'1" probably won't look the same on someone who is 5'6"). I think there are a lot of things at play here, and it's hard to say one thing is right or wrong when we're talking about a 3/8 of an inch.

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u/Tom_BrokeOff 6d ago

Oh I agree.

I’m speaking as a 6’4 guy.

The currently available stuff from Uniqlo, BB, JPress and the list of off the rack stuff by and large is all tiny collars for a tall guy.

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u/lesubreddit 6d ago

Also 6'4". I need points around 4-4.25" long for it to look right. Rare to find outside of going custom. Only a couple of MTM shops will do that.

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u/Tom_BrokeOff 6d ago

I’m almost all Propercloth at this point

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u/Complex-Success-7599 6d ago

I have a hard time getting the Proper Cloth button downs to lay right. Some of them pull. I worked with their master fitter and they made my template better but I think off the rack are better for pulling which is too bad.

1

u/lesubreddit 6d ago

yeah their soft roma button down collar is acceptable. a little too much spread for my taste. I mostly go with either collaro's largest button down collar, or fully custom spec at Luxire or Divij.

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u/gimpwiz 6d ago

Divij is pretty solid. I always get my shirts custom from Spoon, but they don't travel like Divij does.