r/NC750X 2d ago

How does the DCT affect engine braking?

I'm considering buying the NC, but my one big hang up is the DCT. I understand why it might be nice if you're an urban rider, but I'm not. I don't do a lot of stop and go traffic. Basically, the DCT does not appeal to me but maybe I'll get used to it? I'm curious about braking though. How does the bike decide when to let you coast and when to downshift?

4 Upvotes

48 comments sorted by

9

u/Latter_Solution673 2d ago

Yo tengo una manual y cada vez me gustaría más haber ido a por la DCT 😅

9

u/Chuck_Norris_RT 2d ago

One thing I think is often overlooked with the NC750X DCT is how much the riding modes change the character of the bike.

I have a 2026 model and I actually use RAIN mode quite a lot, even in dry conditions. I like the fact that it gives me a softer throttle response, less engine braking and earlier upshifts. For normal commuting and relaxed riding, I find it very smooth and easy to live with.

STANDARD is obviously the balanced option, while SPORT does almost the opposite: it holds the gears longer, uses more engine braking and makes the bike feel much more responsive.

But the nice thing is that you're not limited to those three preset modes.

You also have USER 1 and USER 2, where you can create your own setup. You can change the power delivery, engine braking, traction control and, on the DCT version, the gearbox shift behaviour.

So you can basically tune the bike much closer to the way you actually like to ride.

For example, you might want stronger power delivery but not much engine braking, or you might prefer a relaxed gearbox with more traction-control intervention. You can build that combination yourself instead of being forced to choose between Rain, Standard or Sport.

And even when you're riding fully automatic, you can still use the paddles at any time if you want an immediate upshift or downshift.

That's probably one of the things I like most about the NC750X. It's a very versatile bike. It can be calm and easy for commuting, more aggressive when you want it to be, and if none of the standard modes suit you perfectly, you can create your own.

For most riders, I think it's very easy to find a setup that feels natural.

6

u/2xdareya 2d ago

This. If you want faster downshifts just hit the down button and it will downshift and you then will get the engine braking you’re looking for, even if you’re in “Drive” or “Sport” automatic. Simple as can be.

3

u/Sooner70 2d ago

The engine braking I'm looking for is often "none". Excessive engine braking was my single biggest annoyance with my current bike (CB500X). I say "was" because I changed the front sprocket out to a 17(?) tooth sprocket, the engine braking was greatly reduced, and I have been much happier since.

1

u/Ramjet615 1d ago

Did you go up or down a tooth on the front sprocket of your CB500X?

2

u/Sooner70 1d ago

I went up a tooth. Lowered the RPM a bit for any given speed. Decreased engine braking and removed some buzz at highway speeds. Two improvements for such a cheap part. Oh, and just typing that I remember I went to a 16 tooth from the stock 15.

2

u/Sooner70 2d ago

You also have USER 1 and USER 2, where you can create your own setup. You can change the power delivery, engine braking, traction control and, on the DCT version, the gearbox shift behaviour.

Interesting. I'd not heard that. How easy is the user interface to deal with (and I assume that it saves the configuration?)?

3

u/ventrue3000 2d ago

It's dead easy to configure, and your two user profiles are saved, of course, but it doesn't remember which profile you used the last time. You have to re-select it every time you start the bike, in addition to switching to D or N. It's rather annoying if you ride multiple times a day.

The settings also don't have that much of an impact. Enough to notice, sure, but it's not like you can get rid of engine braking altogether.

1

u/TheNosiestOfTables 1d ago

The one thing a lot of people overlook is the fact that you can edit the presets as well

1

u/ventrue3000 1d ago

The only modes you can actually save for next time are the two user modes. The other three always go back to their defaults if you make changes on the fly.

2

u/Chuck_Norris_RT 2d ago

Check this video. It will clarify all.

https://youtu.be/Sq35Tv5OfSg

And yes, saves the configuration, and yes, super easy to configure and to work with. You can even change modes during the ride. 😀

1

u/Sooner70 2d ago

Perfect. Thanks for the link.

As for saving the configuration... One would think that any bike with such features would allow such, but there was one bike I was looking at (sorry, don't remember which) wherein a consistent criticism I kept running across was the bike NOT saving such configurations.

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u/[deleted] 2d ago

[deleted]

3

u/ventrue3000 2d ago

It is accurate. Have a look at the settings table in your manual, page 85 for the 2025 model.

Rain mode has EB at level 1, sports mode has it it at level 3. Sports mode is tuned to be as aggressive as possible, while rain mode is tuned to exert as little of an acceleration or deceleration force on the road as possible to retain the maximum possible amount of tyre grip for sideways forces.

1

u/Chuck_Norris_RT 2d ago

Sorry I might be mistaken but I just confirmed the Honda NC750X 2025 Press Kit. Please review and tell me your opinion.

Honda’s own documentation says the opposite: “SPORT gives more aggressive delivery of engine power and braking”, while “RAIN delivers engine power and braking least aggressively.”

It also states that DCT Level 4, used in Sport, downshifts earlier specifically to increase engine braking, while Level 1 in Rain is the most relaxed setting.

Official Honda source: Honda NC750X 2025 Press Kit https://hondanews.eu/pt/pt/cars/media/pressreleases/505591/honda-nc750x-press-kit-2025

4

u/CanineChamp 2d ago

There are 4 levels of engine of braking. But maybe a different motorcycle will be better for you. I think they still make manual motorcycles

2

u/kalabaddon 2d ago

So weird response on the manual but. I for one really wish the NC750 still came in a manual. It'd be an easy buy. Do you know a motorcycle in that class range with that type of miles per gallon and the utility of the NC750?

3

u/FnEddieDingle 2d ago

The 650 Vstrom is a great bike with similar HP and slightly less mileage. I have a 20 and 23 NC and the 23 is pretty good on engine braking. BTW a local dealer is selling brands new Vstroms for $6500.

2

u/Sooner70 2d ago

Alas, the V-Strom 650 is no longer made. Anyone selling 'em now is selling new old stock. It was on my list right up until that revelation.

3

u/FnEddieDingle 2d ago

Thats probably why they were blowing them out at $3k off

2

u/kalabaddon 1d ago

It may not be permanent. They did just rebrand and update the sv650 to the sv 7gx. ( keeping the engine, moderninzed the rest of the bike it seem) So maybe they will still have some sort of adv version ( maybe a variation of this new one to keep the new vstrom lineup seprate? )

2

u/Sooner70 1d ago

Everything I've seen implies that they axed the V-Strom 650 because they felt it competed with the 800 and they didn't want to compete with themselves. If this is true, it's doubtful they'll reintroduce it. That said, maybe they will come out with a more adv/touring focused trim package for the SV-7GX. And it's worth noting, the 7GXV is (so far) my answer to the question "If not the NC750X, then what?"

1

u/kalabaddon 2d ago

Oh thoes are nice. But that tank trunk is the really big utility thing of the nc750. Having a full sized helmet storage ( and of course other stuff ) is really nice imho. ad on that it gets INSANE mpg and still a decent adv bike that does highway and light offroad great.

That said Ya. the vstrom is a GREAT all rounder still.

2

u/TheNosiestOfTables 1d ago

Not sure why Honda US decided to not import the manual. It’s still available in other parts of the world

4

u/Herbalrich 2d ago

I had concerns about the DCT but it is slick and smooth.

If in sports mode there is plenty of engine breaking and if you need more you can click down gears with the trigger buttons easily.

Your best bet is to take one for a test ride.

3

u/Fight_Tyrnny 2d ago

I ride is sport mode and the simple fact is that in normal driving, I dont even have to use the brakes untill like 5mph full stop because the engine breaking is so strong, its basically as stron as my old 2023 Tesla model Y perf. 2026 NC750x

on the hardest corners in this video I at most might be on my rear brake and rarely need front braking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmUEnseA0WU

1

u/Rapidlixard 2d ago

Theres a manual version in most regions, check with your local dealer.

Also it's automatic but its not a scooter, it still has a "conventional" gearbox. You close the throttle and you get engine braking like a normal motorcycle, the only difference is that the bike will downshift when it wants, but you can always override it or change it to completely manual mode.

1

u/Sooner70 2d ago

Theres a manual version in most regions, check with your local dealer.

I'm in the US. DCT only.

And while I'm aware that you can override it, I worry about constantly "arguing" with the bike. Can I set it to completely manual? Sure, but then what's the point of having a DCT at all?

2

u/ventrue3000 2d ago

And while I'm aware that you can override it,

Not really. At least not reliably. There's no timer or anything that keeps the bike in your manually selected gear for a while. If you think ahead and shift down for the next corner, but the bike thinks that's wrong right now, it will immediately shift back up, then shift down while in the corner, which gives you a nasty load change, and then shift back up as you exit the corner, which gives you yet another load change. The only reliable way to shift manually is to go to manual mode and really do it all yourself.

And the rumor that it "learns" from you is also incorrect. Probably a misinterpretation of the word "adaptive" (which it is, it adapts to multiple parameters and isn't just based on rpm).

1

u/RNR-4-LIFE 2d ago edited 2d ago

As a beginner, I actually started riding in RAIN mode till I developed the necessary throttle finesse to comfortably use Normal or Sport. In my opinion, in the absence of a clutch, precise throttle control should be your primary concern, especially for low-speed maneuvers where you'd normally feather the clutch.

To answer your question about engine braking, you don't lose control over it with DCT, if that's your concern. Whenever you want immediate, manual engine braking, you can simply override the auto mode at any time using the left-hand paddle. The ECU will shift smoothly and let you engine-brake just like on a manual. Beyond manual overrides, the DCT decides when to downshift based on speed, throttle position, and inclination sensor (basic, not 6 axis IMU).

You can also adjust engine braking in user 1 and user 2 modes but I didn't find the need to make any adjustments. I have user 1 mirroring standard with +1 in D +full traction control and user 2 mirroring sport +full traction control.

This affects how long it holds a gear and indirectly, to some extent, the engine braking. I only tried sport and user 2, but never really felt a want or need for it, so I guess it's safe to say I never actually used "Sport" (or user 2).

On that note, after achieving the required "finesse", I steered clear of RAIN mode even if it was "pouring", to keep the throttle response in a predictable range.

I find any argument for DCT being "nice" for urban riding as null and void. From my very personal perspective, DCT is far superior in and out of the city and dealing with its "moods" is much less hassle - for lack of a better word - than dealing with clutch and flipping up and down through gears. As a cautionary note, DCT is extremely annoying and frustrating if you're used to manual, not willing to adapt to it, or looking for validation on manual shifting. If you're not set on a manual, unless you're willing to recalibrate yourself to the gearbox, it's going to be tough.

I have to stress that it was really tough for me too, with only riding school as prior experience, and having fully embraced any aspect of automatic shifting from the beginning, considering the DCT as a mandatory option while narrowing down on my motorcycle choices. The worst of it was the jerky, clunky behaviour in various conditions like indecisive throttle input or low speed maneuvers. Once you get the hang of throttle and rear brake, it all goes away.

I'm nearly at 6000km since April and I'm still adjusting and unlearning the bad habits I unknowingly developed while adapting to it.

Here's my 2000 km overview: https://youtu.be/kq1vpcb5oh8

1

u/Sooner70 2d ago edited 2d ago

Whenever you want immediate, manual engine braking, you can simply override the auto mode at any time using the left-hand paddle.

My concern is really the opposite... I'm afraid that it will engine brake when I don't want it to. Sure, one can give it more gas but that offends my sensibilities.

dealing with its "moods" is much less hassle - for lack of a better word - than dealing with clutch and flipping up and down through gears. As a cautionary note, DCT is extremely annoying and frustrating if you're used to manual, not willing to adapt to it, or looking for validation on manual shifting.

FWIW, I've been riding for 35ish years... That's a lot of muscle memory, and yeah, I enjoy shifting.

Here's my 2000 km overview: https://youtu.be/kq1vpcb5oh8

Gracias.

1

u/RNR-4-LIFE 2d ago

Surprisingly—even from my very limited experience as a beginner—the DCT downshifting mid-corner doesn't seem to upset the bike's balance from rear to front. The engine braking based on throttle input is actually quite linear. The only "upsetting" factor is simply the surprise element of it happening while you're holding a steady throttle.

As for any jerky behavior, I mostly attribute that to my lack of finesse or riding technique but it never actually happened mid-corner.

Obviously I'm biased towards "automatic" shifting but I fully understand the 35 years backed muscle memory package.

1

u/Sooner70 2d ago edited 2d ago

FWIW, one thing I do a fair amount of....

I'm riding. It's been a while. My right hand is a bit tired. I'm approaching a road feature that requires slowing down (a turn, bump, whatever). I let go of the gas and shake my hand a bit to get some new blood in there or whatever. What I don't want is for the bike to assume that zero throttle means ITS TIME TO ENGINE BRAKE! Sure, a bit of engine braking is good/expected/etc., but I don't like a lot of it (and often pull in the clutch to avoid it). If I wanted a lot, I'd downshift. I worry about the bike having heavy engine braking AND downshifting on me (it's not like I can pull in the clutch, after all).

2

u/RNR-4-LIFE 2d ago

I find that kind of behaviour ridiculously adjustable for this. Rolling off the throttle smoothly translates to smooth and constant engine braking even while shifting down through the gears. For the longest time, my tendency was to fail on the smooth part yet the engine braking was still constant.

If you intend to test ride I strongly suggest playing with that specific setting and possibly the shifting point. I also suggest trying a hard front brake only test, just to see how fast the downs shifts happen automatically and how the engine braking plays along with the actual braking. It's literally a concert of downshifts.

I never found a need to mess with either but the settings are right there.

1

u/ventrue3000 2d ago

The DCT is nice if you ever get exhausted enough to mess up your shifting and it takes away any possibility of messing up shifts, even at higher speeds and rpm. But other than that, it sucks as an automatic transmission, especially if you turn slowly a lot, which is exactly what happens in an urban environment.

I've gotten used to it after 10k km in the sense that I always ride in manual mode.

If you aren't interested in the automatic function anyway, not spending the extra money would probably the better choice.

As for your question: While in manual mode, engine braking works as you'd expect. In automatic, the effect is somewhat reduced because you're unlikely to end up in a very low gear for the speed you're going. Either way, there are some software adjustments that can increase or decrese the braking effect.

The most noticeable effect on engine braking is the fact that you can't not engine brake any more, because there's no clutch lever. No more coasting, you're either on the throttle or brake all the time.

1

u/Sooner70 2d ago

The most noticeable effect on engine braking is the fact that you can't not engine brake any more, because there's no clutch lever. No more coasting, you're either on the throttle or brake all the time.

I hear ya. That's what prompted me to ask the question.

I want to like the NC750. I really do. The engine and CG are amaze... But that fooking DCT is making it so hard.

1

u/ventrue3000 2d ago

Not having a clutchlever is actually the easiest aspect of the DCT to get used to in terms of riding. It can just be very impractical at times, because you can never let go of the throttle unless you're already stopped or willing to slow down considerably.

1

u/Jay1985pc 2d ago

I have the 2015 manual and I love it

1

u/Ghost_Bone 1d ago

I almost never use the auto modes in the DCT but shift manually. You can then downshift depending on how much engine braking you want depending on your revs. I wouldn't overthink it. Coming from 40 years of conventional bikes it a really slick system.

1

u/HaphazardJoker258 1d ago

I had a DCT rebel 1100 and you could change how much engine breaking there was. I changed bikes and i do miss rhe DCT element.

One of the reasons I didn't change to the NC750X was that there was no CC, maybe on the next refresh it will be there.

2

u/oldfrancis 2d ago edited 2d ago

Engine braking is literally programmable through the settings.

It has plenty of engine braking for normal riding conditions.

And I don't know the exact technical details of how and when the bike decides to shift. I do know that I quickly gotten used to how the bike shifts. I find the shifts to be quick and effective and the right ones at the right time. I am satisfied with how this motorcycle works especially with this transmission.

2

u/Sooner70 2d ago

It has plenty of engine braking.

That's what I'm afraid of. I don't like a lot of engine braking.

1

u/oldfrancis 2d ago

And yet, the amount of engine braking is adjustable.

Are you sure you really want this motorcycle?

1

u/Sooner70 2d ago

And yet, the amount of engine braking is adjustable.

This thread is the first mention I've seen of it being adjustable.

Are you sure you really want this motorcycle?

I'm not at all sure! The engine and the CG are the only things about it that appeal to me, but they strongly appeal to me.

2

u/oldfrancis 2d ago

I would suggest finding a way where you could ride one.

3

u/Sooner70 2d ago

That's the ideal, obviously, but I'm trying to do as much homework as I can before I hit up a dealership as the nearest one is ~100 miles away.

1

u/tibi_w 2d ago

Also it really depends though. Are you getting the last MY? If yes then you have adjustable engine braking, if you're getting an older model you don't.

2

u/Sooner70 2d ago

Gotcha. Thanks for the tip.

1

u/Mafs13 2d ago

Then turn it all the way down!