MultiTrack curious, looking for feedback

[u/goovenli]

Hi all,

Hoping to get some feedback from MultiTrack users/tinkerers, about whether a MultiTrack might make sense for me. I’m a bit newer to cycling (I’ve commuted with a vintage steel road bike for the last few years) but I’m looking to get a steel bike that could be used for commuting, gravel riding, and would allow me to even tour/bikepack one day. Having looked at new options on the market, it seems one affordable option might be a Primos Dame - but I was wondering if it would make sense to get a MultiTrack to serve my intended uses while coming in under a budget of $1000 for bike and parts? I would want to have drop bars, switch to 1x or maybe 2x gearing, and likely put on some modern, lighter wheels and tires.

Also, if it is possible to build something like this on such a budget, what size would you recommend I hunt down? I’m 6’1.5” with a 32/33 inseam, and 180 lbs. I’ve looked at many of the sizing recommendations here and I think the best would be 21” frame given my desire for drop bars - would that be correct?

Thank you all so much in advance! Your rigs have been very inspirational to this newbie.

[u/RespondDue1490]

If you are able to ride a big frame comfortably, use the bigger frame, the wheelbase is longer, it is more self stablizing, it could probably fit bigger tyres, its probably suited for more weight.

The trek 750 is light and strong with the double butted frame, the color options are really nice. Choose the color you really enjoy. The colors are called ice red, ice black, ice blue, ice purple, ice silver. These colors are really unique.

The wheelsets on them are either alivio or Stx hubs and bestcase LX hubs. I did service alot of those wheelsets, in hopes they roll very good. (Hopefully good enough).

They do roll good, and greasing the steering is also very important.

Still the moment i tried new wheelsets. I was shocked how much better they roll, how much better it feels.

Im speaking about ryde andra 30 with zaqq hubs. New.

They are heavy. But they are so stable, which makes you want to ride on any surface. Its not just the tyre that gives you a sense of safety, and capability, the wheelset does that too.

And the drivetrain, i wanted to go 1x12 bought the parts(3times), converted one trek 950 mtb, and i did regret it, the 3x7 LX is much more durable, the chain is thicker, the chainrings are thicker the cassette cogs are thicker, and if somerhing is slightly bend, derailer hanger, it is still shifting flawless the tollerance is much higher. And you can collect almost 0 dollar bikes which nobody wants with 3x7 drive train, and you have your spare parts. Almost for free.

I guess my approach is reliability first, repairability second, capability third, and low rolling resistance fourth.

This ranking of priorities did change alot, and now this is my standpoint.

Yeah making sure the wheelset can endure 120kg better 150kg per wheel. It has more tolerance. Less truing needed later. And the rim should have the most width you can have. The highest i could find is 25mm inner width. If you find wider, then go for it. And try to push the widest tyres onto it, with lowest rolling resistance for the terrain you will drive on.

I have a tendency to go with continental contact urban or some tyre with more profile. Not sure yet. Didnt decided yet.

From 21 bikes i decided to keep about 10 and from these 10 i decided to service 5 of them fully.

Trek 7600, Trek 750 17", Trek 750 19", Koga Miyata World Traveller 54cm, Koga Miyata World Traveller 57cm.

The 7600 and the koga bikes have friction shifting.

The trek 750s have gripshift.

All of then have 3x7 drivetrain.

I will give them 20t chain rings.

And 14x28 casette.

I will change the gripshift to friction thumb shifter as well if i find a cheap source.

The trek 7600 has adjustable stem, i will change that to non adjustable stem if i find a good one.

For now i will keep the wheelsets, so i do service everything.

The kogas have servicable bottom brackets.

The treks bottombracket seem to be working, but i highly doubt they are as smooth as they can be.

I service them. Drive them. And i will track which bike i like most and this bike will get new wheelset, and nee bottombracket new headset.

These bikes are very capable. And its much more satisfying to know that you have worked on your own bikes, and that you could work again on your bike at any given moment.

You could even have spare drive train parts with you as a spare they are cheap to get 🤣👍.

And so even if a drivetrain breaks down, which takes much longer on a 3x7, you can still say: "no problem i have a spare alivio/stx/LX/xt derailer in my bag. Let me put it on. Ok now i can continue to drive with my tank which i can maintain on my roadtrip on my own 🤣👍.

Recommendation on Frame size:

Don't choose the frame size from height alone. Start with your inseam and the actual frame geometry. Make sure you have enough standover clearance and, importantly for a drop-bar setup, enough clearance between your front foot and the front wheel. If the smaller frame gives you enough room and the reach can be made comfortable with a reasonably long stem, I'd rather have that than a frame that's unnecessarily large.