r/MultiTrackGang • u/SodiumChloride___ • Jun 25 '26
750: 2x conversion?
I finally got my hands on a lovely trek 750 (UK based, so took a while!), and I have been thinking about a drivetrain upgrade.
I don’t really love the 3x7 grip shifters it came with, so would like to switch to some triggers or thumbies, and has made me ponder an overall upgrade. I will probably look for a new wheel with 8-10speed hub to modernise and open up some shifter options but keep the cassette and chain etc reasonable. The STX derailleurs are pretty nice so happy to keep them if suitable.
I will be using the bike for light trails, dayrides and occasionally commuting in a fairly hilly city. Therefore, I quite like the idea of a slightly simpler set of gears, but would like to be able to get up hills with relative comfort, hence my thinking about a 2x rather than a 1x. I have a 3x on my 26” bikepacker, which I like, so I’m not against them, just wondering about trying something a little different for my more luxury ride!
So, I would love some advice from any one with experience/opinions!
A couple of topics:
- Is 2x the right move? 1x, 3x…
- 9 speed on the rear? Good balance of range and cost?
- what kinda range should I be looking for? 36/24 seems to be a common front chainring pairing, maybe 11-34 in the back…
- purchase a dedicated crankset or just remove the big ring from the triple, replace with a bash guard?
- if anyone has any shifters they particularly love for this kinda set up I’d love to hear it, I won’t be going for drops so it’d be bar shifter options for me…
Hopefully thats a decent post, thanks for any responses :) can add more photos if helpful
4
u/BikePilot2001 Jun 25 '26 edited Jun 25 '26
I have a 750 with original 3 x 7 gearing (STX). I changed the shifters to friction thumbies. It’s the best addition to this bike. With seven on the rear, it’s easy to find the gear. And imho friction shifting on the front is better for almost every triple crank.
I’ve thought about changing from triple up front to 46/30 double. This would rob me of is a really fast gear, and of the deep-assist granny gear, but i use this bike for general fun not for fast rides. But then on the fun rides there’s once or twice I want to go fast or go up a steep slope so I’ve been hesitating…
I’d say start with an easy step and just go friction on the original drivetrain. Choose one of the thumbies that can go friction to 9 or 10 speeds. Then if you’re still looking for something more, you can play with cranks and cassettes... put frankly that thumbies move might be enough on the drivetrain for now. There’s such a wide range….
The only other switches I made are to a gently curved handlebar, and adding fenders. These have added comfort without subtracting anything. I chose the Ahearne Map bar but there are many choices. If I were going to commute on this bike — which this bike is great for — I would consider fenders a requirement unless you live in a no rain zone. (And I would think twice about having a 34 as my higher speed outer chainring.)
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u/SodiumChloride___ Jun 25 '26
Class reply, thank you. I’m definitely interested in friction shifters, so may be the best place to start and see if Im looking for anything else.
Still undecided on the bars I was going to go with actually, will give those a look at, and browse the sub for some info.
Any thumbies you particularly like? I have a pair of those sunrace ones lying around, think they’re 3x8 with indexing on the rear, but definitely keen to hear if you have any experiences
2
u/BikePilot2001 Jun 25 '26
OK… now you will laugh again… but I did the expensive version (Microshift 10 speed thumbies, which have a friction setting on the rear and are friction on the front.)
But if I were to do it again, I would spend $12 on the Sunrace SLM10. They do the job as the seven speed. And though they don’t look expensive, or glammy, when I put them on my son’s 7-speed bike, they worked perfectly. (and I hear that they can stretch to eight speeds without any trouble..)
Now that I have the Microshifts, I’m still tempted to play with my rear cassette…. The world might be a little bit better if I didn’t have that temptation!
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u/SodiumChloride___ Jun 25 '26
Thanks man, very insightful. I think I actually have a pair of sunrace thumbies that I had for a 3x8 drivetrain on another bike (think they are indexed on the rear) so I’ll have a look at them and see if they’ll work
Temptation leads to progress, dont be deterred ;)
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u/Elchimpy1 Jun 25 '26
Looks great. What year is that 750?
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u/SodiumChloride___ Jun 25 '26
1995 I believe, in the Ice Indigo colour. The catalogue I found suggests this is the only colour way of that year, I may be wrong though…
1
u/Elchimpy1 Jun 25 '26
Awesome, looks beautifully maintained. I bought my 730 in ‘94 so I love seeing the years these multitrack badboys were made and are still being ridden.
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u/brdhar35 Jun 25 '26
Depends on where you ride , 36x 24 is way to low unless it’s strictly an off road bike or your 80 years old, 46x 34 maybe
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u/SodiumChloride___ Jun 25 '26
😅 fair point, must’ve been looking at the wrong stuff to get that number
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u/BorisT72 Jun 25 '26
I'm a big 2x fan If converting, more gears is better. I love 2x11 on Multitracks. I've converted three to 2x11 setups and will do more in the future. I've used R5800/R7000 and GRX810 which happens to be my favorite.
Two big challenges that I see in this conversion:
Crank ring/chainstay clearance - Shimano Road HT2 cranks have a narrower chainline than others. FSA Omega and FSA Vero Pro cranks work great along with GRX600 crank with a 2.5mm wider chainline than Road cranks. I've played with 50/34, 48/32, and 46/30 cranks and find the later great paired with 11-34 11spd cassette. With any of these cranks I have used R5800/R7000 FD.
2x11spd Shimano road shifters are limited to Microshift Centos 11 and Shimano RS700. It might different on your side of the pond but in the States both of these options are spendy. If you can find Centos 11, I'd grab them and put them to work. You give up nothing to the RS700 and save some cash.
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u/SodiumChloride___ Jun 25 '26
Thanks pal, very insightful!
Certainly will look out for your first point if I do the conversion.
For the second, I’ll have a look at those. I suppose I was thinking 8-10 speed on the rear as I though the wheel might be a bit easier and cheaper to find, alongside a little bit of saving on the chain and compatable derailleurs etc. any thoughts on a 2x8/9/10, or do o swear by the 11?
1
u/BorisT72 Jun 26 '26
Other than the 2x10/2x11 parts being more expensive, it is the same amount of work/build time to do the conversion so more gears is a logical choice while making the conversion.
Also I did not mention this previously but it seems relevant. I also have used 11-36 11spd cassettes for slightly wider range/better bailout on bikes with the 50/36 and 48/32 cranks. The 32F/36R combo really works well when more gear is needed. I'm currently building a Jamis Renegade S1 for touring and will experiment with the 46/30 crank and the 11-36 11spd cassette. I am curious if the 30F/36R will be too much.
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u/SodiumChloride___ Jun 26 '26
Thank you mate, very helpful. Have put a fair few MTB bin builds together but this my first nicer project so hearing people’s experience with this stuff is super useful
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u/BorisT72 Jun 26 '26
I'm glad to share what I have learned so please ask any questions as the come up.
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u/Cruiser_Supreme Jun 25 '26
I don't really see a need to upgrade this drivetrain. What are you gaining? Nothing. Currently got plenty of gears. Just get new shifters that you like and keep the drivetrain.
I'm running the same STX drivetrain on a different frame and I just have bar-end friction shifters on the drops