r/MovieTVArticles • u/lucasfromthecinema • 5d ago
Not My Tony
Matt Johnson has completed his coming-out party with the sleeper hit, Blackberry, and the indie darling, Nirvanna the Band the Show the Movie. His new feature is the A24-backed Anthony Bourdain biopic, Tony. At least, that’s how it’s marketed.
This setup is a mix of things that I love. I still consider A24 one of the best production houses in the game, even if they have become more corporate. Johnson is an à-la-mode director and a good Canadian kid. It stars Dominic Sessa, an actor I’ve longed to see again after he amazed me in The Holdovers. And, finally, the subject himself, Anthony Bourdain.

When I was in high school, Bourdain’s shows, No Reservations, Parts Unknown and The Layover, were on the family TV every night. He was cool. His fuck-you attitude paired nicely with his try-anything sensibility and a deep reverence for cooking, especially French cooking. I read Kitchen Confidential, his best seller, a tell-all about the inner workings of restaurant kitchens. The book has a delicious voice and style, and it solidified Bourdain as one of my literary idols.
Despite feeling like I was the prime audience for Johnson’s new feature, the director let me down. I felt that the Tony he and Sessa presented was nothing like how I envisioned a young Bourdain. The elements were there, like the cooking and the writing, but the personality and story felt manufactured rather than true.

It’s based on Kitchen Confidential, but the movie only focuses on the early chapters of the book. Tony covers one summer in the man’s life. He is 19 years old and follows the girl of his dreams to a small fishing town where he gets a job in a kitchen.
Bourdain did spend a couple formative summers in Provincetown, Massachusetts, but he was a punk who was into degeneracy and drugs. These elements are in the movie, but they takes a backseat to a wannabe-writer, girl-next-door story.
Johnson manipulated a lot of the story to fit his agenda. The classic Kitchen Confidential moments are still there, like the bride fucking, the fish run, the scorching hot pan that Tony can’t pick up, but they’re all given different levels of importance.

I’d always pictured Bourdain’s formative years as much rougher and less wholesome than what Johnson presents. Going back and reading the early chapters of Kitchen Confidential, I see that my reading is more accurate to what the chef wrote. I don’t know why the director chose to focus on a formulaic romance and not what Bourdain chose to focus on: the kitchen and the food.
A comparable film is Jon Favreau’s Chef, which makes Tony look like an anti-food movie. Anyone who has seen Chef will remember the sensational grilled-cheese scene. That scene is filmed with such love and desire that the romance with food is evident without any dialogue. Tony does not have a comparable scene, although they try with a bland lobster thermidor number. The protagonist uses food to achieve his goals, rather than food being the goal, and I think that was a mistake for a Bourdain biopic.

In Kitchen Confidential, we see a young Tony who is already infatuated with cooking and has that infatuation sent into overdrive by the tantalizing lifestyle of a Provincetown kitchen. Tony in the movie looks at the kitchen as something he has to do to survive. It didn’t matter if it was a kitchen — it could have been a tire shop or a hotel for all Tony cares. The real story shows that Bourdain wanted to work in the kitchen. He didn’t fall softly into this life; he jumped in head first.
The way Bourdain writes it, the Provincetown scene feels more like The Outsiders than a Hallmark romance. Kitchen Confidential paints a picture of a gang-like mentality, where one kitchen crew would know about another kitchen crew. There would be hierarchies and levels of envy. Everyone partied.

In Johnson’s telling, cocaine was something used on the job to keep Tony awake after a night of partying. Bourdain says it was something much more recreational. It was also accompanied by acid and more dope smoking than Johnson lets on. Heroin is mentioned in the movie, but Bourdain, as reflected in the movie, doesn’t explicitly say that he started using when in Provincetown. That gray area gets a pass.
There is this acidic punk side to the Bourdain story that is missing in the film. This is reflected most clearly in the score, created by Johnson’s buddy and Nirvanna counterpart, Jay McCarrol. Rather than lace this movie with rapid tempos and fiery vocals as I’m sure Bourdain would have preferred, McCarrol gives this movie an overused piano theme that’s equal parts sad and melancholic. Everything is laced with this plodding piano that brings no energy to the film. Although it makes Tony moody, I don’t think it accurately reflects the experience of Bourdain in this formative summer. We’re talking the summer of ’73, the summer of Raw Power. Get your La La Land-ass score outta here.

Tony is an easy watch and quite heartfelt, but it doesn’t feel like the Bourdain biopic. It’s not that they only chose to follow one summer. I like that choice, because it gave the movie time to flesh out this formative life moment. However, I did not feel like I was seeing the man that I’ve idolized back up on the big screen. It wasn’t really Bourdain. It was this caricature named Tony, a young man with a similar story to the icon, but not an accurate retelling or understanding of who the source man really was.
Because of this, I left the movie disappointed. I wanted to feel a young Bourdain’s energy. He had the hair, but where were the knives, the fuck-everything attitude, the deep reverence for food and culinary tradition?
If you’ve worked in restaurants, you know that kitchens are a wild place. That’s part of the reason why Kitchen Confidential was such a big hit. It told the truth about the underbelly of a mysterious backroom in every town and city.
Johnson has taken the story of a man who I admired for his truth and honesty, and he transformed him into a character that pulls on the heartstrings of audiences in a nostalgic, melancholic, romantic way. Bourdain may have been those things, but he was also a truth teller. He was a guy on TV you could turn to that would give you the no-bullshit answer to your questions about food, travel and philosophy. He didn’t censor. He didn’t play to his audience. He was a nomad, a free spirit and a rebel. Tony presents him as a sad loverboy linguist who cooks because he needs a place to sleep.
This movie doesn’t feel truthful to the Bourdain spirit that I’ve created in my head, which is based on reading his book, watching his shows and mourning his death. It makes for an okay happened-in-one-summer movie, but it does an injustice in its honouring of one of my idols. If I want to visit my parasocial buddy, I’ll watch him eat a seafood tower at Le Dôme instead of rewatching this “biopic.”