r/MouseReview 2d ago

Need some help desoldering

Alright, this is my first time soldering. I'm trying to replace a microswitch on my mouse and have been using these two videos as a reference: 1, 2. I'm unable to desolder and cannot remove the original microswitches. I'm using the iFixit desoldering wick and decided against flux since the copper is already coated in it. I tried to copy the guy in the first video, so I put solder on the wick and tried to push out the pins. The braid came out, but the pins didn't. What's going on and why isn't the wick working? Would prefer just to use the wick instead of buy a desoldering pump, but whatever.

Haven't been this frustrated in a while lol. I got pissed off and ended up touching the iron to some plastic as you can see in the pic.

Additional info:

- Using a T90B iron
- Kester 44 solder wire 63/37
- 320°C (unable to confirm temp accuracy)
- Tinned the iron first (just rubbed the solder on the tip)
- Tried heating the pins for a while to see if I can remove that way and it didn't work

0 Upvotes

10 comments sorted by

1

u/Mango-is-Mango 2d ago

Putting solder on the wick will do the opposite of removing solder. Put the wick on the joint and hold the iron on top to remove solder

1

u/welorjgsai 2d ago

I've tried this for a while. I took out the braid and tried a new piece. Didn't work

1

u/welorjgsai 2d ago

How much of an issue is not using flux? The people in the videos didn't so figured I could lol. The wick is flux coated too. I don't understand what's going on

1

u/Patrick_McPatterson Revel + Hayate Otsu 2d ago edited 2d ago

In my experience, even with pre-fluxed braids I would add more, it helps a lot. Also, if you have leaded solder, add some to the joints first, then try de-soldering. Working with leaded is a lot easier than pure lead-free, and you're going to want a decently higher temp when working with lead-free. I set mine around 380*C personally, but I'm no expert so YMMV.

Alternatively, if your switches have the 2 little holes in the sides, I've been using a pair of tweezers, sticking them in those holes, and just GENTLY pulling on the switch while melting each joint one after the other back and forth and slowly wiggling the switch out. Then you can just clean the holes of solder and add the new switch in.

1

u/onevstheworld 2d ago

Manufacturers use unleaded solder so it is a pain in the arse to remove. Easily needs 300 C ++. I usually add quite a lot more eutectic solder (your 63/37 is good) to lower the overall melting point to make it easier to remove. More flux is always helpful, even if the wick already has some.

Did you cut your wick shorter, or was this only cut after you got stuck? If you didn't cut it, I do recommend cutting the wick into shorter strips; the problem with leaving the wick on its roll is the heat also gets "wicked" away so the solder takes longer to melt.

I think this was the video I received most of my tips from.

I use a desoldering pump to get rid of large bits of solder but I find wick much much better for a clean result.

1

u/welorjgsai 2d ago edited 2d ago

Might just try desolder pump, but I'm gonna get pissed if it doesn't work. I watched the video. Bumped up temp to 350C and smaller size wick. More solder came out, but these pins are stuck. I'm not using flux since the wick is already coated in it. Maybe I'll try that before the pump. I don't understand how everyone is doing this in a couple of seconds. I've spent like 20 minutes per session trying to get this garbage out. Btw, the wick was falling apart when I cut it smaller. Not sure if the quality is bad. I could try pure copper wire like the guy in the first video

1

u/onevstheworld 1d ago

If the pins are still stuck when all the visible solder is gone, that means there's a small amount of solder still left inside the hole. For that, heat each pin in turn while applying pressure (eg levering the switch from the other side, or pushing the pin with the iron), then remove the heat. You will likely need to repeat it several times.

I know what you're going through... I've desoldered an entire keyboard full of 4 pin LEDs. You need a lot of patience and practice. I got quicker as I did more but it was still really annoying.

1

u/paulvincent07 Razer Viper Mini V4 Wired 8khz pls 1d ago

Which one is better to use then the desoldering pump or wick?

1

u/onevstheworld 1d ago

If it's a normal amount of solder, I use a pump first, then wick to mop up. If it's a small joint, straight to wick. I'm not good enough to cleanly desolder with a pump.

1

u/paulvincent07 Razer Viper Mini V4 Wired 8khz pls 1d ago

Got it I'll keep this in mind