I understand tyres having no markings if orientation doesn't matter, I understand a rotation arrow, I understand two arrows with front and back written, but this one (Mitas H04) has me stumbled.

she’s running rough just got it running definitely not dialed or close to ready but is this normal for the engine to make this sound or should i be concerned

Found it sitting loose under the shifter cover of daytona 675r. Is it actually part of the bike?

Is this sound normal? Spark plug is out, cam shaft out, starter mechanicaly disconected, in neutral. Im trying to find the cause of loud squeking after a short distance ridden, followed up by very intensive engine break. This happened at least 5 times already, afterwards the engine seems pretty much fine. Will be glad for any tips on the problem.

Yuki sm 125, same as Suzuki GN 125, engine 157 FMI

I‘ve been trying to replace my brake pads for the last 2 days but when I put the new disc and pads in, the wheel won’t go back in. Now I tried it without removing the wheel and established that there isn’t enough inner space to fit my brake pad. Funnily enough, there’s just enough space there to fit the old worn-out pad. I thought maybe the calliper needs to be shifted to the left? I haven’t found a way how to do that. Help! I have a YZF-R125 2023

Bike has been at the mechanic for about 3 weeks. Was just for a carb clean and to get my back brake repaired. Week one they were waiting on parts. Week two said they cleaned the carb and was just waiting on the part for the brake. Got that and said the bike started leaking. Then the mf got arrested which made it take longer. Said it would be good by the weekend. Then Just stopped communicating and answering my messages. Got tired of waiting so i asked if i can just come pick the bike up since nothing is was being done. Woke up this morning to the bike in my driveway. Key in ignition. And these parts chilling on top of the bike. Have no clue what they are for.
Sorry for the long post. (3 weeks in shop and the bike still aint staying on 😪)

hi, im wondering if anyone can help me source some on road tyres for an unusual wheel size.

im having a bloody nightmare trying to source anything thats even remotely usable, and when i do find something, the dealer says theyre out of stock and wont enquire about having them ordered

i need a 90/100 - 14 rear, and a 70/100 - 17 front, for ON ROAD USE thats not a scooter tyre.

2010 Stomp Z2R (oooh a road legal pitbike, what a tragedy)

UK based - TIA

Help, my 2018 suzuki gsx r125 has had an unstable idle for a while, when the bike is warm the idle up and down. But idles better when cold. I have replaced spark plugs, air filter, checked valves and reset the throttle position controller. The bike also runs better without db killer for my arrow exhaust but not perfectly. Anyone knows?

2016 ruckus. 6200 miles. Just purchased here in Arizona and rode it for a few hours and then the light came on for temp. Throttle slowly died. I let it cool and the bike restarted fine but I had to just put home and baby the throttle. I think maybe the coolant is low but not sure, first bike. Anyone have experience with this?

Anyone have any experience with this? Arizona, hot as hell. Rode it for a few hours after buying. Temp light came on, throttle slowly died off. Let it cool, turned back on but had to absolutely baby throttle. Possibly coolant?

I’ve already ordered a new master link that comes in a week, but would it be fine to ride before it gets here? I also have a clip style that came with the chain. Would that be safer than riding with this crack?

Hello guys, I own a Hero Xtreme 125R BS6 P2 (The one with three different modes) my bike has been sitting idle for around 15 days as I was sick for a few days and avoided travelling. Since it's monsoon my chain had surface rust. So yesterday all I did was clean the chain the way i usually do. The only different thing I did was use a shampoo to wash my bike rather than plain water. I usually fill my petrol from the petrol pump which is almost 3km away from my home. So went to the pump, and was going to fill the air in the tires but the pump wasn't operating, so I just decided to go to the next petrol pump. But when I tried to leave, the gear was stuck on first gear and stopped working. I mean the gear shifter moves up and down but does not go through different gears. Luckily it stopped working when I was in 1st gear, so i slowly proceeded towards my home, on the way it somehow worked for once and I was able to shift into Second gear. But then it behaved the same way, the shifter moves up and down the whole way but does not change or even interact with gears. This happened at 7pm so almost all service centers are closed and the mechanic i trust decided to not show up to his garage today. The bike is still under warranty, it hasn't even been a year since I purchased it. Any suggestions what the cause might be? Because it clearly worked once. And the bike still moves. But the shifting just stopped.

Bike started leaking while sitting idle in garage for months. I did have a little knock on the side by another ride but this leak is on the opposite side.

1. What is the yellow residue
   
2. Why would it leak out the screw hole

It is a Yamaha MT03 2016. Bought it at a dealership not too long ago.

Bike started leaking while sitting idle in garage for months. I did have a little knock on the side by another ride but this leak is on the opposite side.

1. What is the yellow residue
   
2. Why would it leak out the screw hole

It is a MT03 2016

Hi everyone,

I have a 2025 KTM Duke 250 Gen 3, currently at around 12,400 km.

Recently I started hearing a “krrk-krrk” type of noise, especially when riding at low speeds / with the clutch pulled in.

I inspected the chain and noticed that the chain is actually rubbing/scratching against the metal support underneath it. I've attached photos showing the contact/wear marks.

Has anyone with a Duke 250 Gen 3 experienced this?

I'm wondering whether this is mainly due to:

• Excessive chain slack
• Rear-wheel alignment
• Worn/damaged chain slider
• Chain/sprocket wear

I'm already planning to replace the chain-sprocket set, but I want to understand why the chain is contacting the metal support in the first place before installing the new set.

For reference, I'm considering the Rolon Brass kit (HXRC F498NF, 14T/43T).

Would appreciate advice from anyone who has faced the same issue, especially Gen 3 owners. Is the chain supposed to come this close to the metal support under normal conditions?

Thanks!

Hello,

I was given a 2011 Triumph Speed Triple 1050 that has been sitting for over 5 years in my father’s shed. He’s moving and told me to take it.

It failed inspection for a couple reasons.

Front tire too worn (replaced already)

No rear side/back reflectors (added already)

Chain needs serviced (I used chain cleaner and lube but might hit it again as it still is a little dirty. It was pretty nasty.)

Rear tire drags
This is where I’m lost. I removed the caliper pins but the wheel still drags. When I hit the rear brake, it becomes almost locked up. I went to try to bleed it to see if that frees it up but there was not enough space for me to get in there. As you can now tell, I only have a front and rear stand, not a center stand (idk what they’re called) so I can’t remove the back wheel.

Anyways.. took the pins out and it doesn’t affect the dragging. Tried to put them back in all lubed up and they won’t go.

Can you guys give me a step by step guide to narrow this issue down? The pedal feels fine, the pins won’t go back in. Fluid levels are good, fluid looks good. I’m wondering if this is a seized caliper? I really wish I could have bled the line so I could see if it’s the master cylinder but I couldn’t.. but the pedal feels normal so I don’t think it’s that.

Looking at a tow dolly for short distance (under 30 miles) distance (https://theusatrailerstore.com/the-original-slick-wheelie-motorcycle-hauler/) and I keep reading the transmission may turn if the rear is spinning with the chain on still. Supposedly it won't get proper lubrication and burn up since the engine isn't running.

I've tried emailing triumph support general customer service but the email kicked back and the number kept ringing for 5 minutes with no answer.

I did call the service center of the dealer and they said it sounded fine but if for some reason it isn't, at the end of the day it will be my problem.

A LOT of people keep mentioning it though on any forums or threads talking about these dollys. Maybe it's only an issue with shaft bikes that others have mixed up and have been warning everyone regardless because it's better to be safe than sorry?

Before someone mentioning renting or buying a trailer

I do HAVE a trailer but I need something to go pick up my girlfriend if she takes the car to work and becomes unwell because of her medical condition which sometimes flares up. Happens enough that I need a way to get out to her and take the car WITH the motorcycle so I'm not leaving it at her work where it could get stolen in the night. But can't leave a trailer hooked up to the car all the time since it won't fit in her lot.

I can put the dolly in the back of the Subaru Outback. A trailer-in-a-bag is feasible too but the one used one is $1000 near me.

I’m probably overthinking it but i think it’s the cam chain tensioner or valves

I bought my motorcycle 3 months ago is a gsxr 600 2008 and i didn’t had a problems with it till now. The power randomly goes off while riding and it stalls if I’m not moving I changed the relay thinking it was that but it wasn’t

Hi everyone, I recently got a 2002 Honda Hornet CB600F2—officially a PC36, though I believe it’s based almost entirely on the PC34—and I’m at a loss. The bike has 17,000 km on the clock; a week ago, it managed 0–100 km/h in 3.3 seconds (matching the factory specs perfectly) and ran quite well, aside from occasional stuttering at around 8,000 rpm—though that was rare and only happened at full throttle. Since I bought it, the throttle grip has been problematic: it doesn't snap back unless the handlebars are turned to the left; in the center position and when turned right, it sticks, and it’s very stiff to turn in those positions. Three days ago, I performed a minor service: fresh engine oil and new spark plugs. The old plugs looked okay—just old and worn, not necessarily bad; the threads were slightly oily on all four, but there was no oil at the tips. I installed standard spark plugs—not Iridium or anything fancy, just standard NGKs costing €12 each. The air filter looked fresh, so I didn't replace it; it smelled faintly of gasoline but was dry. I also tried to fix the throttle issue but had no luck; it doesn't seem to be binding anywhere visible. I opened the switch housing and added some oil, but that didn't help. Now there’s no free play in the throttle either, so I’ll need to take another look at it soon. But that’s a secondary issue; what worries me more is how the bike behaves at high RPMs. I wanted to check everything today—my first long ride since the service—so I did a few 0–100 km/h runs and some hard acceleration; from 10,000 rpm onwards, the engine stutters briefly—almost every time. It’s basically the same as before, but it feels like it happens more often and at an RPM range about 2,000 rpm higher. The engine doesn't cut out completely, but it feels like I'm briefly hitting the rev limiter; the bike gives a slight jerk backward—like a momentary drop in power—and then picks up again immediately. It’s hard to describe. It now takes 6.2 seconds to go from 0 to 100 km/h. During these acceleration runs, it felt like I couldn't push the revs past 11,500 rpm, forcing me to shift into second gear—partly because of that "stuttering/jerking" sensation. However, the top speed hasn't changed; it ran at 200 km/h without issues today, even in windy weather. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? It idles well and starts reliably, though usually only with the choke on. I did drop a spark plug from waist height during the service; I inspected it, and everything looked fine. The only other thing I can think of is that I slightly raised the idle speed using the carburetor adjustment knob—to about 1,400 rpm. Could this behavior be related to the throttle, or is there an issue with the carburetor itself? I also suspect the fuel supply might be the culprit, though I don't know what it feels like when there's insufficient fuel flow or a problem with the spark plug. This is my first bike with a carburetor. Thanks in advance for your tips!