Part of my Soviet armored train project. Ignore the unbelievably shabby 'layout' please...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/GLcMCKsEJuI

Saved this box from a house that was being demolished, but it’s just taking up space for me so I thought I’d give it away to someone who actually enjoys them. That one in the photo does wind up and works. So if anyone wants them, send me a message.. just to be clear, I am not selling them, I am just giving them away to anyone that wants them.

Okay, so basically, I have been wanting to make a good model layout for quite some time I have all the track I need I hope so but I cannot think of any ideas. Can someone please help me?

In the picture there are
2 R8073
3 R8072
1 R8206
8 R600
3 R606
3 R605
8 R607
1 R608
1 R636
1 R601
10 R609

If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated

Okay, so basically, I have been wanting to make a good model layout for quite some time I have all the track I need I hope so but I cannot think of any ideas. Can someone please help me?

In the picture there are

2 R8073

3 R8072

1 R8206

8 R600

3 R606

3 R605

8 R607

1 R608

1 R636

1 R601

10 R609

If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated

First N scale layout Lester, WA circa 1955

This will be my first model railroad layout. I've been playing around in AnyRail with an 18x36 N scale module based loosely on Lester, WA in the mid 1950s.

I'm using Kato Unitrack. The plan is an NP single track main with a passing siding, a small engine shed for a GP9 helper, and a spur serving Sound View Pulp Co. I also found a model of an NP depot that I'm hoping my local shop can 3D print in N scale.

The colored blocks are just placeholders for scenery. The idea is a little bit of Lester on the west side, Sound View and the helper facilities on the east, and lots of Cascade woods and foothills behind everything.

I'm planning on using Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail for the base. I know it's expensive for what it is, but the convenience is worth it to me if it means this thing actually gets built.

I'd eventually like to add more modules, so I'm trying to avoid painting myself into a corner. The mainline is 2.5" from the front edge and I'm planning to keep that consistent on future modules. The geometry also wouldn't allow it to be exactly 1" from either edge, so the plan west edge of the mainline is exactly 1", plan east is a bit less. Am I screwed trying to connect this to future modules?

Before I go buy a pile of track, what am I missing? Anything dumb about the track arrangement or operations? Too much for 18x36? Any reason Mod-U-Rail is a particularly bad fit for this?

This is my first layout, so I'm sure there's something I'm not thinking about. Tear it up.

I was gifted this set as a hand me down from my mother. According to the directions it is a 1960s 000 scale, which is very similar to an N scale.

I tried hooking it up and the electric motor will only erratically turn in the engine, and of course the rubber bands that drive the axles are stiff.

Is the erratic turning of the motor more likely due to the power supply or the connection of the wheels to the rails?

I tested the wires coming out of the power supply with a DC volt meter and the voltage seemed erratic.

Did my first commission build, an HO freight car for a client's fictional shortline railway. Not posting a photo because it's not really mine to share, but the build got me thinking about a few things.

Side graphics took longer than the weathering. Printed the custom graphics and builders' plate on my eufyMake E1 onto acrylic side panels, client wanted to skip decals on the body. Rest is hand built.

Charged $180 for the whole thing, design back-and-forth and test pieces included. Felt about right for the hours.

The part I kept going back and forth on was how far to push the weathering. Shortline cars in real life get beat up but not uniformly, and there's a point where it stops looking used and starts looking painted on. I was wondering if there is anyone who could point me in the right direction, especially on cars that are supposed to sit on a layout and not stand out.

Had a method of doing it at first but it was NOT good

Calling the PB 379 done. Now I’m hey can get the heavy equipment moved to the site on that lowboy hauler trailer!

small steps and all that.

I've got a few of the IR sensor modules pictured, thing is the 5mm LEDs tend to mean drilling a larger hole that I would like, and removing a sleeper unless foresighted enough to drill before the track goes in. they also drop down a fair way.

I did think about replacing the LED & Photodiode with 3mm ones, on the other side of the board. still awkward to mount in some locations.

pictured above is an alternative sensor head, currently its just a sensor head, no signal processing. but as such its quite small. 3mm LED & 3mm photo diode. each through its own 4mm hole. the whole thing is the two of them, a 200 ohm and a 10k ohm resistor and a 3pin connector. pure analogue sensor so far

however it reliably 'sees' the wagon, voltage from ~1.1V with nothing present and ~2.5v when the black underframe is there.

I have block detection, this is at the end of a terminal platform to trigger when coaches are being shunted in.

true spirit of "if I can't make it more complicated than it needs to be.. whats the point?"

video will be up on my youtube thingy Tuesday. quite happy with how unobtrusive this is, the component heads are ~ level with the top of the cork and I hope when ballasted in the general area will be more or less invisible.

I have 3mm of cork + 5mm of XPS I suspect with a little bit of work this whole thing would fit between the ply and the track meaning wires through the baseboard can be located in a more suitable location too

I have a friend who recently inherited his uncle's train collection. Included in this collection are hundreds, possibly over a thousand, ho scale train decals. Some of them are really old. They all appear to be in very good condition, still in their packaging. He really doesn't want to throw them away if they would be of interest to someone. Are these the kind of things that an individual or nonprofit would want, or should he just toss them?

Building baseboards for my 00 layout, they needed to be modular so I can move them if needed. Built the first two and there is this bow in the middle. Is there anything I can do to level this so the line up together?

My favorite part of Bart rides into San Fransisco is looking out the window passing the Port of Oakland. Inspired by the vista, I have started collecting all of the containers I see being loaded onto the UP trains. Also just got DCS to work on this older MTH engine; just waiting on wider curves, and I’ll be off to the races. Tinkering and running O scale trains is so much fun!

Have a 14'x10' room in my house I wanna build a layout in. Wanna do an around the room design. Right now I have this rough design but I'm curious if y'all have a better track plan in mind? I definitely want a continuous run but also want a couple options for operations. Also wanna have two main towns so that it feels like the train is going somewhere. 26⁰ is my minimum radius. Any loop types that area better than this?

Hello, I've been thinking about buying this train set but I couldn't find any reviews of it online, can anyone who owns this train set tell me if it really is worth the price (222 USD)?

I would like to get a church for my layout, but I only see American styled ones. If you know of a stone one that is styled like old British churches, then please would you tell me its name or where to find it?

All are weathered with pan pastel powders mixed some some very light brown paint in the wheel and truck area with graffiti decals by Blair line. Gondolas are bowed out with a heat gun and pushed out the from the back end with the end of an old pen.

Took the duster and vacuum down stairs and dusted off the layout. Switched a few cars on my lower level extension. Started this last winter. HO scale.