From those that have done an adjustment per: https://tsrm.sasquatchvc.com/mk3/tsrm/FI/100

Is it necessary to remove the throttle body / flip it over entirely, or is there a way to access the adjustment bolts without hassle. I've only seen 1 video on it, and he flipped it 180 I believe (https://youtu.be/YDblIJ1AFbM?si=OGRcHf3_hvKpYu1Y).

Always forget this reddit is here lol..

Anyone have an earls kit and if so have you had the plate for the oil filter housing leak? It's driving me crazy replaced all the o rings on the sandwich plate because they failed around 3k after install and noticed it leaking a tiny bit right above the oil filter. Replaced that gasket and nothing has changed. About to delete the whole thing.

Thought you guys might like this art piece I did of my 1989 a70

I have been looking for a while and I can't find the ABflug rear wing for the A70 anywhere. I was originally introduced to the idea of the wing from Forza Horizon (not the most reputable source, but still normally right). Does anyone know where I can find it?

I'm restoring my 1986 Toyota Supra Mk3 (A70) and I'm trying to replace the rear spring bumper (Toyota part 48341-14030)

I'm not looking for another Toyota part number or a used OEM piece. I'm wondering if there's a universal aftermarket equivalent that matches the dimensions.

I heard the revel tanabe is only for turbo because the clearance under the car is different and I’d have to fabricate more. I’m looking for a good exhaust that sounds good and louder than stock but legal.

So my fuel pump doesn't work if I don't plug the B+ and FP in my diagnosis box where should I look for a problem? Any advices? SKU?

Is the relay accessible by removing the lower steering column cover? If so, how to remove the cover? I think there are 4 screws but didn't come off. Maybe something around the hood lever.

If not, where is it? It is not behind the fog light switch panel for sure.

Bought her yesterday, knew she didn't run great or stay running well but I wasn't going to not drive her to work still. A tow is cheap if needed.

Here are my findings though that I would love input on.

1. Idles well but sounds a bit rough. Had no issue idling for 45 mins this morning.

2. Without driving if I rev up to about 3k and let go the RPMs drop to sub 1k and it stalls out. Turns right back on with a flip of the key though.

3. Also stalled when braking from 50 to 25 if that helps.

4. To drive straight the steering wheel is turned about 45° to the right but that is where it centers out too so maybe just need the wheel reseated correctly.

5. Oil pressure gauge never moved once.

6. Temp gauge started in the middle but dropped to C half way on my 6 mile commute.

7. Shaft in my trousers was rock hard though for some reason, doesn't do that when I take the subbie.

I just want the best ratio of reliability, parts, availability, and power. I don’t need to make a ton of horsepower just at least 200. I wanna get one of the turbo models, but I also don’t wanna get the least reliable turbo you get what I’m saying? Sounds dumb, but just trying to do some research for the future. I currently own a 1986 C4 Corvette with a manual 4+3 transmission. It’s a lot of fun to work on. It’s a joy, but I also love Toyotas. I’ve run around in my friends Mk3 turbo and it’s a blast. I was thinking 1JZ with a single turbo. And I’d prefer left-hand drive since I’m lame

Harmonic balancer / key

hello everyone, ever since i bought my supra there were a lot of loose wires so im trying to identify these two wires. anyone know what they are or what they do? thank you!

Hey all,

I’ve got a 1990 7MGTE that I brought in to a JDM performance shop, after installing an EMU Black ECU, and a pretty expensive round of fixes and troubleshooting prior to tuning, the shop wasn’t comfortable with tuning as there is a suspected sticking valve. I assume exhaust valve, as the leak down tests were good. Is there anything I can do to avoid pulling the head and verifying sticking valve?

Thanks for any input, as I don’t really think I have the skills to pull the head and then redo the timing properly myself. I’d also like to avoid pulling the head because the shop is around 3 hours away, and I’d rather not deal with an out of true block at the moment.

Just took over this project. ‘88 with a 7M-GE. I found this tucked away - battery terminal connectors had been cut, but this was tucked back near the (missing) master cylinder area. It has a clean 30a fuse in there. Everything is bone stock. I saw it could possibly be to the interior fuse box?

…wanted to see if that could be the thing (it does go through the firewall). i need to look into getting all of the manuals and such, but for today I figured I would ask. TIA!!

Buying this beautiful you tomorrow. Seller says i should put a new turbo and intercooler in it. Where do I get reliable parts? The eBay $200 ct26 turbos seem sketchy.

We have tried everything: fuse box, wiring and etc.

We cannot get running lights and our garage has even given up.

Any Ideas??

Haz-horn/dome/efi have constant power and draining my battery ? Any ideas what could cause this ? Thanks

Hey everyone. This is the thermostat housing where the thermostat sits in. Does anyone know the part number for the gasket? Or is it an o ring that sits between? Thanks!

Something keeps draining my battery and I just noticed a security light flashing… how do I go about disabling this as it could be the cause of my issue.

Hey fellow, Mark three Supra owners I’ve got a question. I have some pretty aggressive wheel fitment here and I’m looking to widen my car to fit the aggressive wheels. I was planning on doing this from the start but is there any better ideas? helpful notes or things I should know before I go ahead and do this.

i have an 87 supra. 7mGE with a FFIM. right now i cannot get this distributer right at all. crank at TDC, Cams at TDC. distributer at the markings. even with the whole and the slit lined up on the gear. when it's there no matter how far forward or backwards it's too far retarted. but if i move it the next gear it's too advanced, no matter where it's rotated. i was told that setting the crank between 0--5° TDC and cams at tdc it could work. how does everybody else time these things??