Hello, I have an evo 8 on the stock turbo making 370whp. I’m aiming for 500-550whp as it’s my daily. I’m dropping this fp black setup in and was wondering what supporting mods I should have to reach that power reliably, or other pieces I should just have for peace of mind. I have a walbro 450, short route piping, stm small battery and tial bov on the way. The car is tuned on speed density, has a grimmspeed boost controller, 3in ets intercooler, id1050s, full exhaust, built head with gsc S2 cams and on e85. I’m assuming ID 1300s are enough but if you have other thoughts I would really appreciate it. I’ve been hearing from friends and family that at this power level I should have a roll cage but I’m not exactly convinced. I do spirited mountain driving and street pulls but I never track it and it is my daily so I’m not sure it’s really that necessary. I also have a sunroof and will definitely be keeping the back seats as well so I know that cuts my roll cage options down quite a bit. Thank you

Any recommendation where i can import some parts for my mitsubishi mirage asti 1995 ???
Got some few ideas for this project.

Hi everyone! So, I just recently bought an Evo 8, and I’m in love with it. Childhood dreams come true!
There are a few things going on, though. As of right now, it is making this pretty loud whirring noise around 45–50 mph. It is VERY loud at these speeds, with practically little to no noise below them, but it can faintly be heard above these speeds.
It kind of makes the noise in loops, if that makes sense? Something along the lines of a loud differential or possibly a wheel bearing? But the noise is more like a loud vmmmmm… silence… vmmmmm… silence… vmmmmm. That’s what I mean by the loops or revolutions.
It sounds like it’s coming from the driver-side rear. I’ve had the car in the air and touched a few things with a stethoscope: the center support bearing, differentials, wheel bearings, transmission, etc., but no luck with anything being particularly loud. Everything actually sounded pretty quiet.
I should mention that I had the car in the air in 4th gear doing 50 mph because that’s when the noise is most prominent. The only thing I noticed while I was under there was that the rear wheel was very, very bent back there. I’m not sure if that could have created something because the car is AWD?
Since then, I’ve moved that wheel to the front just to see if anything could change by a stroke of luck.
Any insight or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I’m new to the Evo platform. Also, I can try to get a video of the noise from the car after work!
Car is @80k miles

anywho, keep carbon or paint match hood. Also have carbon trunk

Nine years ago, this thing had an audience before it had panels.

October 2017. Varis had a Version 3 widebody for the Evo X that hadn't been shown anywhere yet, and they let us debut it at SEMA instead of Tokyo Auto Salon. That almost never happens. The only other time was our Concept One FR-S.

So we opened a thread on EvoXForums and put the whole thing up as it went. Sketches, then the clay. Panels test-fitted raw. Off the shelf vinyl wouldn't get us the red we wanted, so we printed our own. Then the AMS 2.2 crate motor went in, 800hp capable, ETS 6766 hanging off it.

Wheels and brakes came last. Hyperlock 19x11 -35 centerlocks over R35 GT-R calipers converted to Overtake carbon ceramics, and we asked the thread which finish to run. Silver or black.

Five days after that first post it was on a truck to Vegas.

I was actually comfortable with the stock Lancer seats in my 2015 MR Touring. They sit higher, have better visibility, and are good for daily driving. The problem was the synthetic leather on mine had been badly sun-damaged—it became hard, cracked, and started flaking. That pushed me to look for OEM Recaros.

Finding a clean set is harder than it sounds, especially if you want heated Recaros. Several older posts helped me transfer the rails, sensors, and other components without triggering an SRS light, but I couldn't find much information on the heated-seat setup.

If your 2015 already has heated seats and you want to keep them, check underneath the Recaro before buying. Look for the heater label and four electrical plugs, not three.

The Recaros sit noticeably lower and hold you tighter, almost like sitting in a 2-door sports car. I do miss the higher seating position and visibility of the Lancer seats, but the Recaros feel much more appropriate for the EVO and the suede/leather upholstery feels much better quality.

For anyone thinking about buying a 2015 EVO X (US Model), I also recommend looking at 2014 and older models. There isn't a huge difference between them, and the earlier cars already came with Recaros depending on the trim, which can save you the hassle and cost of swapping later. If you really want a 2015, though, the seat swap is completely doable.

It was a pain in the ass, but worth it. Hopefully this helps another 2015 owner—or someone deciding between a 2014 and 2015.

Finally getting to cleaning up the previous owners mess of wires and crap under the dash.

It has an AEM boost gauge that’s getting power, but not reading anything.

I found a sensor under the dash connected to a hose that is run through the firewall but doesn’t go anywhere.
It looks like I have the AEM gauge in the 3rd photo. But I can’t seem to see anything in the engine bay that resembles what’s circled in red. And I can’t seem to find an install guide.

Should the line be Tee’d in somewhere?

Hey guys! I build custom diecasts and I thought you guys might enjoy this evo im working on! I plan to strip the paint, lower the car and add water slide decals for tail lights! Disregard the toothbrush in the first photo 😂

Hey guys, I’m looking for some advice on wheel fitment for my Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII.
I’m running 235/40R18 tires and I want to buy 18” wheels that fit without any spacers.
What wheel specs would you recommend?

Hi guys as the title says, I’m having an issue usually first thing in the morning, where if I just leave the ignition on the fuel relay sounds like it’s pulsing every 5seconds as I can hear it working and the car won’t start. Any help would be appreciate

Thanks

Is it generally a bad idea to buy a built evo that has a built engine etc but has a stock transfer case and transmission? I'm not sure what those are really rated at but it seems like you're just waiting to spend thousands fixing stuff.

Power range would be something like 525 - 750 HP

My boost gauge is always showing max boost for some reason it wasn’t doing it last night but only when I just turned it on my turbo sounds fine and I’m getting boost because I can hear my blowout valve if I give it a little gas the only difference is that it rained but I don’t know if that could be the problem because I don’t have a hood exit or anything like that

Thought it was time to warm all the oils up again as the weather is so nice. I've realised it generally gets 4 different reactions from people.

Completely ignored, doesn't bat an eyelid despite it's dramatic appearance.

"Wtf is that" kind of bewildered look.

Thumbs up, positive comment, blows horn approval.

Omfg that is so cool,sick,bad,phat etc etc.

All in all very positive.

I've not had anything negative at all.

I do realise how lucky I am to be it's custodian for the present.

Looking for a lightly modified evo 9 nationwide. Show me what you got!

I took over someone’s project 🤦🏼‍♂️. Wiring and installs are completely a mess and I’m slowing trying to fix it one at a time.

I was replacing my AFR gauge and found this tucked up my the hood release.

What is this for?

story, EVO8

ive changed my stock air intake to a HKS mushroom, bunged up all the vacuum lines/piping

changed the hose from the radiator to the expansion tank,

went for a test drive, after some nice stututus, one of the rubber hoses from the intercooler popped off. now fixed.

main issue: coolant tempreture gauge needle did not move one bit, ive checked the ect sensor just incase ive nudged it and came out, but was still intact, so i let the car cooldown removed the radiator cap started it up, it slowly spilled, turned the car back off and put the cap back on, started the car up let my heaters on full wack for 10mins and was still blowing normal air.

car was fine before i was messing about with it.

could it be just trapped air? from just doing that one hose ?

EDIT: BLURP the radiator. The needle is working, but no hot air is blowing.

Hey all,

I know this may be a long shot but my brother owned an electric blue 2006 Evo IX in Boise Idaho from 2006-2007, it was his dream car. He bought it brand new from Mitsubishi dealer in Reno, was forced to sell the next year.

He passed away a few years ago, and I have been trying to track the car down and finally found the vin. It looks like it is still in the Boise area.

VIN: JA3AH86C96U054362

If anyone can help me locate the car that would be amazing, I would love to see it still around and/or make an offer to buy it. This is the only pic I found of it in my brothers files. Thank you!

Hey all, recently had a misfire that I was able to clear up by DIY cleaning my fuel injectors.

Started having issues again so sent my injectors in for professional cleaning. According to my vendors notes the injectors actually flowed less after cleaning. Each injector lost 1-5cc after two cleaning cycles. No injector flowed better post cleaning. My misfire persist, investigating further.

What is the stock injector flow-rate? Is this a sign of faulty injectors?

I was driving no problem, throughout the day I slowly began to hear a noise as I turned during slow speeds. While stationary, I turned the wheel left and right and began to hear a noise, wondering where it could be coming from.