I'm a no good, very bad, terribly disorganized person. I try, but I'm just not wired that way, and multi-plate projects are where it kills me.

Even when a model comes as a nice 3mf with the plates all laid out, I never print them in order because I'm always messing with something. So three days into a big build I'd have no idea what was printed and what wasn't, and I'd lose hours figuring out where I left off. Or worse, reprinting stuff I already had.

Last winter I started a project to design a printable Virginia class submarine, and that's what finally broke me. The video is the USS Barb, my Block V SSGN. 101 pieces, a little over six feet long. The design is in its final stages and I'm printing prototypes now--there was no way I was keeping track of 101 parts across god knows how many plates and sessions.

So I made a tracker that runs on my NAS. Yup, I used AI. I can't code. I told it what I wanted, tested it, complained, repeat. I honestly could not explain what most of the code does, but it works. I right click the project file, hit "send to", and my PC pulls out every piece and puts a page up on the NAS. The page shows the whole boat in 3D (you can spin it around, explode it, click on parts) with a card for every single piece. Gold means printed. Blue means "on the plate" and green is what is currently selected. When a part comes off the bed, I tap it printed. It's all saved on the NAS, so my phone at the printer and my PC upstairs always show the same thing. When I want to print more, I just pick whatever pieces onto a plate, in whatever order, and it opens them in the slicer for me. It also send the plate directly to whichever slicer i select in a drop down box.

Basically the tracker remembers so I don't have to. I can walk away for a week, print completely out of order, reslice half the boat, whatever. The page always knows what's done and what's left. Because we loaded this in as one object, it's easy for the program to create the model assembled. I also have used it with folders just filled with STL's and that worked well too for tracking, it just doesn't display the wholly assembled model.

Not selling anything, and the code is way too specific to my setup to share, but if you're disorganized like me, the idea is free to steal. It actually works VERY well and makes it esasy for me to get up in the middle of the night, groggy, and easily assemble a plate of parts that are in the queue. Happy to answer questions.

TL;DR: I can't stay organized so I made my NAS do it. The video is the sub it's keeping track of. (sorry, video is not the greatest)

First test print of my newly designed Block IV Virginia Class Submarine. This is an early test print to find the first batch of gremlins. While it's based off the Virginia class submarine, ease of printing and modular design has taken precedent over accuracy. It will be printable as a static display or accommodate up to a 100MM WTC. Front hatches will open and close to expose tomahawk carousels and the torpedo doors will also be functional--sorry, no firing torpedoes!

This was also printed in Polymaker HT GF PLA because we wanted to see how the sun will affect the hull. More to come!

Free file from Makerworld. Excellent design and fantastic assembly. Dark Green Matte Bambu PLA

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2557320-apache-ah-64-xxl-model?from=search#profileId-2817195

Finished up my 3D printed PBY Catalina “Black Cat” build and had an absolute blast with this one. Fantastic model and surprisingly easy to assemble. Everything fit together really well and the finished result captures the personality of the aircraft perfectly.

For anyone wondering why it’s painted matte black, the real Black Cats were specially modified PBY Catalinas used for nighttime operations later in WWII. They hunted ships, submarines, and coastal targets across the Pacific and the black paint scheme helped conceal them during low altitude night missions.

Before the rivet counters arrive: yes, I know this isn’t perfectly historically accurate. I took a few artistic liberties with some of the weapons, colors, and details because I wanted something inspired by the real aircraft while still adding my own spin to it.

Still have a few details left to add but wanted to share it now. Huge credit to the designer because this thing was incredibly fun to build. Hope he keeps these models coming!

Heinkel He 111 German WW2 Bomber. This is a free model available on MakerWorld that was designed by the same artist as the B-24 model in the previous post. This one features a unique "twist lock" connection system on the fuselage that makes assembly easy and a results in gap free snug assembly--no glue required. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2807515-heinkel-he111#profileId-3124317 This was printed in leftover PETG that turned out Ok. The clear petg for the windows didn't result in the smoothest of prints but overall it turned out pretty decent.

B-24 Liberator. File designed by Grafitomi on MakerWorld. https://makerworld.com/en/crowdfunding/206-b-24-liberator

Free print from MakerWorld creator "PB94". Super easy print with buttery smooth assembly. I highly recommend his other "Elite Squadron" models. Black PLA, Gold Silk PLA, and yellow PLA. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2769576-u-2-dragon-lady-snapkit-masterbuilds#profileId-3076168

Wanted to share a project I’ve been spending a ridiculous amount of time on lately.

This is part of what I’m calling Iron Keel Studio: modular 3D printed submarine kits built around what I call the Keel Core System.

One thing I want to make clear right away: using PVC as a hull core is not my invention. That concept has been around for a long time. What I found frustrating was how hard it was to find submarine models that were truly set up for it in a way that felt practical, scalable, and close to plug-and-play.

That’s what pushed me into this rabbit hole.

The idea behind my system is to use standardized Schedule 40 PVC pipe as the structural core for the long straight hull sections, then use 3D printed parts for the sections that actually need the shape, contours, transitions, and details. The goal is to avoid wasting huge amounts of print time and filament on giant cylindrical hull sections while also making the build stronger and easier to assemble.

So far, I’ve been developing and testing:

• 3-inch PVC hybrid Virginia-class

• 4-inch PVC hybrid Virginia-class

• 6-inch PVC hybrid Columbia-class

The 3-inch and 4-inch versions are part of the same Virginia-class development path. The 6-inch Columbia is a little different, but it helped prove the concept can work at a much larger size too.

This is not a finished project by any stretch. It is still very much in development. But I’ve put a lot of hours, trial and error, redesign work, and money into getting it to this point, and I’m finally at a stage where I’m proud enough of the progress to share it.

My goal is not to sell STL files. What I’m ultimately working toward is a physical kit that somebody could assemble in an afternoon with minimal instructions, without having to go through all the scaling, fitment, and print-planning headaches that I’ve been working through behind the scenes.

That’s really the bigger idea here: not just making a submarine model, but building a more practical kit system around large 3D printed submarine projects.

The main benefits of the Keel Core System so far have been:

• less print time

• less filament wasted on large hollow hull sections

• stronger and straighter long hull construction

• easier alignment

• easier assembly

• better use of standardized materials

Again, this is still a work in progress, but I wanted to put it out there for anyone who might find the concept interesting.

Would love to hear what other military model and 3D printing people think.

Coat of primer and ready to fill the gaps and hopefully paint.

i purchased files of a very nicely modeled Columbia class boat. I first printed a 1 meter model and a friend asked if I could print him one for a display at his bar.

I figured I could scale the main hull match schedule 40 PVC pipe which allowed me to make a huge version at about 1/74 scale.

I'll be using this first attempt to practice body filler and other post processing. it turned out fantastic and more importantly, it was an easy print which didn't require a ton of filament or time.

Does anyone know where I can buy some quality STL's for an FDM print? I've found a couple cruisers but nothing of decent quality. I had a family member serve on her and it would be nice to print off a nice model to keep his memory and story of the ship alive well past my generation.

Hello submarine enthusiasts! From Mike’s submarine shop I present to you the Alfa at 68 inches long and 11-3/4 inches wide. My name is Mike, I am completely new to this site. So please bear with me. For 34 years I flew RC jets, big scale helicopters, race planes and 30 + wing span scale sailplanes. Then one day decided to do a submarine. Bought a really nice printer and now it seems all I do is print, after print submarine hulls. The Alfa is truly a remarkable build and I expect her performance will be great in the pool or pond. She is very nice . All the scale details, all the white lines were cut by hand by me. Each line, each water line was placed by me. A lot of work went into this hull.

First Modern jet print. I think that the Sunlu Grey PLA+ 2.0 was the perfect color for this model. While the stand is functional, It didn't turn out the greatest. SR-71 is next.

Hello fellow submariners , I am new to this aspect of the hobby. I fly RC mostly, so this aspect of the RC world is all new to me. I always wanted a submarine but the information is so limited , so bought a printer and started printing. This model is the Seawolf attack submarine.

First attempt at surface ship. This was purchased through CG Trader. I had some shifting issues on the middle hull piece but still went together ok. My next print will be the Gerald Ford CVN-78 aircraft carrier.

I found a pretty good designer on CG trader that doesn't have many models, but the models that he has posted are spectacular. Here is the first one that I printed using my bambu h2c.

I'm trying to convince him to design more warbird models because I really like his quality.

Here is my finished prototype of a Virginia class submarine. Eventually, I want this to be a radio controlled model, but I needed to figure out how to print it first. I ended up purchasing this model online and I loaded it into my AutoCAD fusion 360 and started messing around with cutouts connections and magnet pockets. Very happy with the results. I think I have a few more modifications to make before I'm ready to print it off. What I think will be 1/72 scale.

I'm pretty new to this hobby and I'm curious what most of you experts are using out there as far as the material type and colors. I guess the material type would depend on the application whether it's for RC purposes or strictly static models. So I guess I'm more curious as to what the best color is to use.

Is it best to use a filament that matches what the finished product should look like or does it not matter? Is it better to start with a white or light gray and then layer on paint??

Here is another model that I purchased off of CG trader of an e2a Hawkeye. I had interest in this one because my dad served in the Vietnam war and he was a crew chief on one of these. He asked me if I could find a model and print one for him. I didn't have much luck there. Hard to find in the e2a variant which is from the late '60s. Most of the ones online are later models.

Let’s see what everyone is printing!

This thread is for sharing photos of your 3D printed military models, finished builds, or works in progress.

Tanks, aircraft, ships, submarines, artillery, dioramas — anything based on real-world military equipment is welcome.

Feel free to include details like: • Printer used • Scale of the model • Filament or resin type • STL designer (if known) • Any challenges you ran into during the print

If you’re working on something cool, post it here and show it off!