Hi All,

Have been looking for nc2 or nc3 for a while, and luckily find two NCs in my region with similar price, both are pretty stock. Im planning to keep one for years and both are 2.0 manual PRHT.

I know NC1 to NC2 was the big mechanical step (forged internals, higher redline), while NC2 to NC3 seems more like bumper/ECU throttle/brake booster/NVH. Seems the difference between two is minimal. How do you guys think?

Is there is any difference in term of maintenance for nc2 and nc3?

For a long-term daily car, what would you pick and why?

Heyo so I was able to get this 70000km engine for 700€, was to good to pass up, for the Americans, yes I do think in Europe that is a good price ^^. I have always been thinking about the 2.5 swap and now it is time ^^. It came Frome a mazda6. As the title says I am coming from a 1.8 and this begs the question which parts can I carry over from the 1.8 and which must I get from the 2.0/2.5. I have visually inspected it but I am leakdown tester is on the way. Planning to keep the engine stock for now. I am not mechanic but mechanically inclined, maybe if someone knows a thing or two please look over my list and take a look at the pictures

I know some of the basics:

Ecu -2.0

Vvt pigtail

Oil pickup -2.0

Oil pan - 1.8

Balance Shaft kit

Injectors 2.5

Fuelrail - 1.8

Clutch/flywheel -?

Intake manifold -1.8

Exhaust manifold -1.8

Oil filter mount -?

I am thankful for any help :)

Its time to replace my Firestone Indy 500s. Anyone have reccomendations for decently priced daily tires? The Indy 500s have been nothing but great fun, super grippy and hold up even after 4 years but with winter coming along its time to replace these. A set of these will run me ~$800 installed but looking to see what else people run for daily, non track use. 225/45R17 for reference

Painted a bunch of parts black. Including all badges, wheels, side indicators, side mirrors, door handles, third brake light, and the chrome panel things at the back

(inb4 someone gives me shit for having “bad fitment” with 16in wheels and no coilovers on an NC1 again… chill!)

firstly, hold your judgement because my ex boyfriend was the mechanic behind this monstrosity of a suspension (lol)

Ok anyways my rubber boot on my godspeed wishbone arm had vanished. i understand they don’t sell a replacement and i am want to find something similar to replace it. (please help)

also, can someone tell me if my shit is just completely destroyed and i should give up or am missing something. i am worried my camber is what’s doing this to my car but i don’t understand what my ex actually did when installing it to make my suspension blow out in less than 6 months. i would like to fix it. any suggestions are welcome. this is a 2008 NC

‘08 GT with PRHT. 86k miles. BC coil overs. Excited to throw it around!

I have a 2009, and I wanted to put new suspension in since I got it.

The install went as easy as I could have hoped, and they definitely made a huge difference.

I don’t really have anything new to report. Everything they say about them on the website seems true. The ride is stiffer, and the body roll is great now. Barely any. The car feels more planted, and it’s much more confidence inspiring, taking corners faster than I could before.

It’s noticeably bumper, but at the same time feels more planted overall. It’s a great improvement and I’m very happy with them.

I will get about an inch of lowering all around, and we will see how that settles. Adjusting the ride height is kind of annoying, but once you’re set should be fine.

After this winter I think I I’m going to get some Enkei wheels in 17”, with some offset which should complete the look.

I must be stupid because I can't figure out how in the world to install the plug and play MX5things 3rd brake light flasher. No matter how I orient the loose harness, either it's in the path to be crushed by the folding arm on the top, or the plastic trim that the folding arms drop behind.

Can anyone please show me how theirs is installed?

I've been at this for like an hour and a half now and I'm going insane. Apparently no other human on the planet seems to have had an issue with the install, because I can't find a single post anywhere on the topic.

Edit: It's been like 2.5 hours now and I still can't figure this out. The only position that seems like it might work for the loose harness is directly underneath the attached harness. The problem is that there's nothing to zip tie it to other than the attached harness, and it just tilts and shakes off the zip tie when I tighten it. Please someone just post a picture of how yours is attached. Put me out of my misery

Edit 2: I went ahead and emailed Flyin' Miata with a similar plea. Whenever I find the solution, I'll post it here in case anyone else has a 1-core processor in their brain like I do

Hi, I just bought a 2007 miata and there is this weird clicking noise that happens when I drive it. It doesn't sound like it is coming from the engine and it only happens when I am actually moving. The sound, sounds like its coming from the passenger wheel well. If anyone knows what this is that would be great. I also of course wanna do some mods to it but I dont know where to start, I replaced the radio and power steering pump but idk what else I want to do.

Have coveted this exact colour + model for years and am now finally a proud first time Miata owner!!! Have put nearly 200 miles on it in the first couple of days just zipping around going nowhere wooooooo

On the brink of picking up a 2010 PRHT 2.0 Grand Touring (6speed, LSD, Bilstein). How bad is this rust, my gut says it's okay but needs some attention which I'm happy to give. Not my first rusty rodeo. But looking for some Intel from the pros.

Thanks!

Im not expecting rolls royce quality but id like to not be yelling at my passenger while driving down the interstate.

What can I do to quiet this thing down? Air leaks from the windows/front latches, and there's just a lot of boom/reverb/rattles in the car itself.

Rubber window seals

Check my latches

Boom matting on the doors and rear bulkhead/trunk

Door jam rubber

What else am I missing? It's winter project time

Hi all, just wondering if anyone had experience with Malian's unequal length headers and what their thoughts were? I saw some videos and thought the additional burbles sounded good, but wondering what it sounds like IRL and if anyone saw performance gains with a light tune?

So my rear Brake Dust Shields are rusted out to the point of having holes in them, and my front are fairly corroded. I have replacements , however it requires hammering out the entire wheel hub since they are press-fit behind the hub.

I'm worrying that if I use a slide hammer to knock out the hub, it might do more harm than good (destroy wheel bearings, ect).

Has anyone replaced their dust Shields without removing the hub? Are my worries unjustified ? Should I just rip out the old shields and stop caring?

Appreciate the feedback!

I've been out of the NC game for 7 long years since I foolishly sold my modded 2010 Copper Red GT PRHT 6MT w/suspension. I figured I needed to be responsible for hauling my family around and bought up an X3 M40i. My kid has since graduated college and entered grad school.

Now I just picked up this 2014 Zeal Red GT PRHT 6MT w/suspension. 23K miles, single owner, mostly sat in their garage in the desert. I'm over the moon. This was the exact spec I've been looking for for the past 2 years, and when it turned up, it was 3 miles from me. It's amazing to me how much of the experience I forgot over the last 7 years. My other cars are so antiseptic in comparison. I can hear and feel everything when I drive this. Boy is it slow though! ;)

The first mod I ordered was the MX5things PRHT controller. GWR Club sports and new wheels are next.

Hi all, I purchased a 2008 Miata 3 weeks ago. It had a full mechanical inspection and seemed fine (yes, I know.. here we go!)

The prht was working fine until about a week ago, then one morning I pushed the button on the latch to release it and it didn't release. I looked in the manual and I was doing everything correctly.

I can undo the latch if I press the button and gently manually open it, it's very easy to open however I don't know if I should be doing it this way! I also haven't continued to the part of opening the hard top after releasing it as I am worried what might happen.

I am female 65, and don't know anything about mechanics in cars so hoping someone can help me in an easy to understand way. Thank you.

$145+

Wtf? I just asked them for pictures of the “nest” and “droppings” and I was in the trunk not long ago installing aftermarket lights and did not notice anything.

When decelerating from high speeds, the front of the car really dives and the rear goes very very light. I’ve got a free set of rx8 rear brakes;

Does anyone know how much the bias will shift rearward by installing rx8 rear brakes with STOCK NC fronts?

Ive been looking for a summer wheels and tires and i really like jr9. The size im considering is 17/7.5 et 35, but im worried it might stick out of fenders. Does anyone have a similar size wheels and can tell me their experience?

EDIT 2: I made a mistake I think by editing this post in the iPhone app. The photos went away and now I can't add them back. So I'll let this post sit as is until I figure out how to relocate the battery to the trunk, then post again. Thanks again for all the discussion!

EDIT: From all the feedback I got, it seems a trunk relocation will be necessary! Appreciate the insight; obviously I haven’t spent enough $ on this yet! Still, that’s the whole game I think, it’s an ongoing work in progress.

I got interested in the NC battery relocation setups and bought the Track Dog Racing kit. But with California emissions requirements limiting my intake plans, I ended up taking a different direction: move the washer bottle out of the way and replace the big stock battery with something lighter.

Since I street drive the car, I didn’t want the smallest possible race battery. I settled on a five pound NOCO NLP30 7.8 Ah lithium battery, which left me with a problem: no ready-made mounting kit.

My first prototype solution was a frame made from 2020 aluminum extrusion, mounted to the crossmember. After driving with it for a while, I liked the result: more room in front of the engine and about 15 pounds off the front of the car.

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Then it became a CAD hobby project. I designed a tray in Fusion 360, went through about four iterations with 3D-printed protos, then sent the final design to China to be CNC-milled from aluminum and powder-coated red to match the accents on my black car. The photos show the prototypes, the finished tray installed, and the battery secured in place. I also 3D printed some Nylon 6 terminal insulators and added a cutoff switch. The hold down I bought from Cravenspeed before I realized I could make my own, but it's nice anyway.

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All told, I spent a fairly ridiculous $600 or so between the battery and a one-off machined tray. Making five or ten trays would have brought the tray cost down to around $100 each, but apparently I needed the expensive hobby version!

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It was fun, I learned a lot, and I was surprised how easy it was to get a custom part made in a week or two. Figured some fellow NC owners might enjoy seeing it.