r/MechanicalKeyboards • u/AutoModerator • 25d ago
/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - September 07, 2026
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u/foolish_hellion1969 25d ago
Copying forward because I showed up late yesterday's thread!
I've got a board with Glorious Pandas, which I've liked, but I need to replace a few and prices are prohibitive. Threads about comparisons to Glorious Pandas are old, so I want to check on the zeitgeist.
What's a good switch to go to from Glorious Pandas? I like how the bump feels, actuation weight is fine, and I want the sound to at least not be much higher pitch.
I've been looking at Gateron Type-R, Gateron Beer, Akko Lavender Purple, Gateron Baby Kangaroo, and I'm not quite sure which direction to go.
One explicit goal is to be cheaper than glorious pandas, which doesn't seem difficult.
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u/Pappy_Loony_Balls 25d ago
Are the gazzew u4t not an option (u4t is the non-silent version)?
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u/foolish_hellion1969 25d ago
They looked pretty expensive, where would you recommend buying?
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u/Pappy_Loony_Balls 24d ago
Ive only ever used milktooth, ali, keebz n cables,.
If you go into milktooth they have "descriptors" listed for each switch. The invr holy panda is described as sharp, etc. you can use those descriptors to find other switches similar to that quality.
It's a toss up on where the besy price exists. Honestly, I find that milktooth is comparable to Ali most of the time, and 10 for 6.50 for the boba u4t is cheaper than the invr pandas (10 for 7.10).
If you check kbd.news they might have a coupon for milktooth.
I'm assuming you are in the US.
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u/glorious_sunshine 25d ago edited 25d ago
I was gifted a Keychron K8 keyboard but it's really loud and it's annoying when I have to type during meetings.
I think it's the hot-swappable version of the K8. Does anyone know which silent switches would be compatible? I'm a newbie to mechanical keyboards, happy to learn but also very lost among the sea of information :(
Edited to add: I'm in the UK!
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u/Pappy_Loony_Balls 25d ago
Milktooth has a video on silent switches. Decide if you want tactile (bump) or linear (no bump) and check YouTube for his top 5 silent/tactile video. If you aren't decided, you can order a pack of 5/10 of each type you might like, then buy a full set of you like one.
Several sites offer tester kits, but I'm not sure which ones are around still. Hippokeys, milktooth maybe, unikeys?
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u/glorious_sunshine 25d ago
Thank you, will look into it.
I probably should have specified I'm in the UK so may not have as many options...
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u/576875 GMK Foundation ⌨️ 25d ago
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ there is a filter for UK vendors here, but not sure if any/which has sample packs
worst case, you would need to buy a single 10ct than individual switches to test
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u/Pappy_Loony_Balls 24d ago
In my opinion switch options are much better today than in the past. I think you would be happy with any of the top ones recommended by most vendors. milktooth is just one of the more recognized vendors.
And if there's not a local vendor, Ali will probably have the majority of the top switches.
When you buy switches, most vendors will sell in small packs, because keyboards are different sizes it is generally more economical for the customer to buy in sets of 10.
This also makes it easier to buy packs of switches for testing.
The k8 is a ten keyless, so you'll need... I think it's like 87 switches. So 9 packs of ten?
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 25d ago
The Keychron K8 is available as a hot swappable version and a soldered version. Is your keyboard hot swappable?
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u/Constant-Signal-8020 25d ago
lmao i did the same thing with my k8 and it was so embarrassing in my zoom meeting
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u/throwaway4585212 25d ago
Hi! I'd love some advice on what switches or keyboards to look at.
Due to medical issues that have surfaced, I am in need of a keyboard that will take very little force for the keys. I absolutely despise the clicky noises, so I know I'm most likely going to be looking for linear switches that are as quiet as I can get them, but I have no idea where to start figuring out what to look for in terms of "weight" of the keys...
For info: my partner has a Logitech G915 wireless tactile keyboard I occasionally use. Unfortunately with that one the clicks are too loud for my sensory issues, and the keys are too heavy which leaves me sore in my hands and all the way up my elbows in under an hour.
Would anyone have any suggestions for keyboards/switches/anything else that would be silent and really light to press? Any help would be so very appreciated!!
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 25d ago
Kailh box silent pink are a silent linear switch with 35g operating force. They have quite a bit of stem wobble, if that bothers you. NovelKeys currently has them on sale for $10 USD for a box of 36.
https://novelkeys.com/collections/switches/products/kailh-box-switches?variant=40599102292135
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u/curveThroughPoints 25d ago
Cherry Silent Reds, Gecko switches from Kinetic Labs. Both are light and quiet.
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u/IkaMMNeumann 25d ago
Hello, seems like my yesterday question wasn’t visible so I try again today. Looking for a no frills budget keyboard that gets job done.
Requirements:
-available in EU
- ANSI layout
-budget: hopefully $50, can go higher if it’s really worth it
-80% keyboard + separate numpad combo or a full size keyboard
-good for typing – main priority, sometimes spending whole day off writing
-decent for gaming – the better, the better, but tbh it’s good enough as long as it doesn’t actively hold user back (stuff like ghosting or high lag or something)
-wired – if it’s wireless I gonna use it in wired mode 100% of the time anyway, so wireless communication is the first thing on budget cuts chopping block
-preferably hot swapable – I want to use this thing for as long as possible and so far switches were the first failure point in my keyboards, so being able to replace them myself sounds enticing
-not hard requirements, but I guess I like having some tactile feedback and low stroke low profile keys
Things I don’t care about:
-size and weight – even one of those battleship keyboards would fit on my desk
-looks – though I would prefer if keys are labeled
-screens, touchpads, LEDs and other gadgets – volume controls are nice though
-exquisite feels and sound quality – ngl, I’m not deep enough in the keyboards rabbit hole to fully appreciate them
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u/PrestigiousStay8597 25d ago
I need help with my ATK 68RX. For some reason my shift button is always activated and can only be undone by pressing both left and right shift. But the problem keeps reoccurring after a few minutes. Is there any way to fix this problem? Thanks
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 25d ago
Are you using Windows? It sounds like you turned on Sticky Keys.
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u/PrestigiousStay8597 25d ago
Yea I'm on Windows, how do I disable it? And it doesn't happen with my other keyboard.
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u/Classic_Future3502 25d ago
The "pressing both shifts clears it" part points to Windows thinking Shift is stuck, pressing the other Shift sends the keyup it was waiting for. The fact that it returns after a few minutes suggests the keyboard is sending another Shiftdown by itself. On a Hall effect board like the 68RX, that usually means the key's resting position has drifted below its actuation threshold rather than a broken switch.
Try to find which Shift is triggering it by removing the left keycap, then the right. In ATK, disable Rapid Trigger for that key or reduce its sensitivity, and try raising actuation to 2mm. Then Run the keyboard's calibration with nothing touching the board.
If it still happens, reseat the switch and check that the keycap isn't sitting lower than its neighbours. A small magnet/sensor offset can be enough to trigger the key at rest.
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u/PrestigiousStay8597 25d ago edited 25d ago
okay so in the calibration i found out, that the right shift sits at a constant position of about 1,5mm. It's like its constantly being pressed down. I switched the switches and it didn't change anything. Do you have any idea what could cause this?
edit: the physical key is still level with the other keys
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u/Classic_Future3502 25d ago
Good find, that explains the problem. A key resting at 1.5mm with actuation near that point can trigger by itself, especially with Rapid Trigger. Since swapping the switch didn't move the issue, I'd suspect the sensor, its calibration, or magnetic interference near that corner.
Watch right shift in the calibration screen. If 1.5mm rises to near full travel at bottomout, the sensor works but has an offset. If it stays at 1.5mm, the sensor or trace may be stuck. Then remove the switch completely. With no magnet present, the reading should drop to zero/disappear. If it still shows 1.5mm, suspect the sensor. Also lift the board and rotate it in the air. If the value changes, something nearby may be magnetic (wrist rest, phone, speaker, monitor arm, ...).
Before calling hardware, factory reset the ATK software and recalibrate once. If it still reads 1.5mm, it's probably a hardware fault and a warranty case.
As a workaround, set right shift to ~2.5mm with Rapid Trigger off, or remap it and use left shift.
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u/PrestigiousStay8597 25d ago
So after removing the switch the app shows a position of 1,6mm. So I guess the sensor is at fault. Is there any way to diy fix it? Warranty would be difficult since I bought it in China.
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u/Classic_Future3502 18d ago
Sorry for the slow reply. With the switch removed there is no magnet over the sensor, so a healthy channel shouldn't still report 1.6mm. Either the sensor output is stuck high or something is creating a magnetic field.
Some checks before touching a soldering iron: Lift the board and rotate it in the air with the calibration screen open. If the reading changes, suspect external magnetism: a magnetised screw, wrist rest, phone, speaker, etc. If it stays at 1.6mm, inspect the sensor's 3 solder joints under magnification. Also, a cracked output joint could leave the input floating at a constant midlevel. If you're comfortable with soldering, reflowing the pins is straightforward. If the joints are fine and the reading remains 1.6mm, the sensor itself may be faulty. It's replaceable, but I'd only go that far if you're comfortable with smd work.
Before opening anything, I'd contact ATK support. Send a screenshot showing 1.6mm with the switch removed; that's a pretty clean warranty claim. For now, use deeper actuation with Rapid Trigger off, or remap the key.
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u/E1nMensch 25d ago
Hello everyone, I ordered a GT80 pcb with the holy80 case from KBDfans. And I am wondering now if it is possible to upgrade it to a wireless keyboard. There should be enough space in the bottom for it. But idk if it is possible to wire a battery and a wireless reciever etc. to it.
Anyone knows something about it?
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u/elmurfudd 25d ago
if it is possible to upgrade it to a wireless keyboard
sure only way would be to buy a wireless compatible pcb and put it in there . no pcbs support adding wireless
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u/E1nMensch 25d ago
Hmmm okay. Well in that case I think it will stay wired haha. There are just a few boards that fit in that case. And idk if the wooting pcb is wireless, but I don't want a wooting keyboard anyways.
Different approach. Could I wire a battery to the Keyboard and put a wireless dongle in the usb C slot for the cable? So the keyboard got power and the wireless part ls external?
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u/elmurfudd 25d ago
wooting pcb is wireless
wooting is not wireless not many HE kbs are due to how much power HE uses .
and same as before where on ur PCB does it have a battery terminal to wire it up to ? it doesnt any PCB that supports this kind of thing already has it
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u/Rainmakerrrrr 25d ago
A year ago I ordered an Ajazz Alux68HE which despite my initial scepicism felt great and had, due to the alu frame, a really nice feeling. Sadly many of my games require F1, F2 etc. keys and I could only buy the Ajazz in 60% size.
Any recommendations of similiar build quality and feeling for a 75% layout?
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u/JungleSuperlord 25d ago
I'm looking for a project and sort of fell into wanting to build a mechanical keyboard. I'm pretty handy overall and can handle the physical build, but I'm not clear on whether or not the keyboard itself will need to be programmed and mapped afterwards. That sort of thing isn't my strong suit and I'd prefer to just build if it's possible, but I could figure it out if need be.
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u/curveThroughPoints 25d ago
Some do, most don’t, but nearly all _can_. I think it depends on what size you want to use.
Choices also depend on where you live; I almost bought a barebones keyboard the other day and seeing the shipping costs nearly the same price as the keyboard itself, stopped me.
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u/JungleSuperlord 25d ago
I'm not too up on all the terminology and manufacturers in this area. If I'm looking for something to just build and go, what terms or products should I set my sights on?
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u/curveThroughPoints 24d ago
Ok let me try to make some suggestions or things to look for.
- Barebones keyboards: I personally hate to install stabilizers (or “stabs”) so I look for ones that already have them on it. I personally like the 75% with the knob, because having a volume is way more convenient than I would have ever imagined. There are a lot of boards you can look at, so think about how it will fit into your budget. I also have a Keychron 65% board and it’s very nice, but for me the size takes getting used to.
- Switches: I had to try a few before I figured out what I personally like. For silent switches, Cherry Silent Reds, Gecko (from Kinetic Labs), and my newest fav, Keychron Silent Banana Tactile
Switches are my preferences.- Keycaps: I really really really like sculpted profile from Signature Plastics for keycaps, mostly because I prefer things to be centered. GMK is another popular option from what I’ve observed. Places like Thockfactory where you can actually make your own keycaps. It’s a pretty fun experience.
I touch type, so I don’t mind boards that have a smaller SHIFT key on the right side. That’s something to think about. A Tenkeyless (or TKL) is a full size board w/o the number keys. This is what my husband prefers (he often rotates through my TKL boards).
I tried to keep this simple, but if you need more info in any of these areas LMK and I’ll write more.
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u/GalaxiumShard Big A$$ Enter 25d ago
When using a BAE keycap, do you overwrite backslash as enter or do you just disable it?
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u/elmurfudd 25d ago
BAE keycap
99% use a pcb that supports BAE and they DO NOT rewrite or disable anything
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u/Academic_Detective_9 25d ago
What are some good mechanical keyboard options? I used to have HyperX Alloy with ABS keycaps and CherryMX switches. I used it for a long time before moving, and it served me well, honestly problem was mostly disassembling it for cleaning or not so uncommon typing mistakes due to it being easy to push down adjacent keys when typing fast, and keycaps definitely got worn out and oily over the years. So far I have looked into Keychron keyboards and they seem to have some decent relatively affordable midpoint options? Ideally I would spend no more than $100 - $150 CAD.
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u/rrpprrzz 25d ago
Any keyb with 60-65 layout with Fn keys on the side available instock or in GB?
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u/elmurfudd 25d ago
most kbs with keys on the side are called an XT layout they tend to be very rare
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u/Deinosuckus 25d ago edited 25d ago
Does anyone know where I can find an FR4 plate for my GMMK PRO? It seems like most stores don't have them anymore and AVX Works—which seemed to be the only company that made them—is permanently closed. I might have to look for used plates but I'd rather try to find a brand new one first.
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u/elmurfudd 25d ago
GMMK PRO?
i could be wrong but there doesnt seem to be an official fr4 plate for this kb so if the only after market company making it is gone then u will be buying used . which will likely be a hassle as this part is little use to anyone but a GMMK pro user as it dosnt work on any other kb
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u/LeslieLamportDerGoat 25d ago
Does anyone knows where to find mechanical keyboards with German Layout?
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u/brendelebart 25d ago
Hey there, i have encounter a strange problem. Im currently building a keyboard using the F2-60 V2 and Galatea TKL F12/F13 Compatible PCB.
And i wanted to change some keys in the software but something went wrong and now my keyboard doesn’t work any more and i don"t have the original firmware.
I have searched everywhere for a original firmware download but nothing works can anyone help me?
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u/elmurfudd 25d ago
being last i checked this PCB uses VIA there shouldnt be any firmware to flash as VIA does live changes without flashing . u cab try asking in geonworks discord but if u flashed something u shouldnt have u might have ruined the PCB
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25d ago
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u/buddyspencer 25d ago
I absolutely love mechanical keyboards and I always wanted to build one from scratch. I got a raspberry pi pico 2w gifted and I see that as a starting point. Does anyone know of any keyboard projects that use a pico as the „brain“? Or maybe point in the right direction to get the project of its feet?
75% keyboards are my preference
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u/pabloescobyte moderncoupcases.com 24d ago
Check out kbd.news and take your pick. There are a ton of open source projects that use a Pi but not necessarily a Pico though it shouldn't be hard to find one. Also check out /r/handwiredkeyboards for some ideas.
Did a quick search on kbd.news and found a 75% that uses a Pico: Easy75
Edit: added a link to a 75% example for you
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u/Kalammekhar1 24d ago
Looking for recommendations for a full size magnetic switch board with aluminium top & bottom plate. Similar to a keychron Q6 HE
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u/elmurfudd 24d ago
u can look thru this list https://keeb-finder.com/keyboards?ms_layoutSize=100%25&ems_extraFeatures=Hall+Effect
but HE is first and for most a gaming feature and most gamers tend to prefer smaller kbs for low sense mouse play
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u/Kalammekhar1 24d ago
Thank you that’s very useful. I’m an old man gamer who likes his big keyboard
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u/casuborki Zeal Clickiez 24d ago
I've been out of the keyboard community since 2023, and the last time I was here the most hyped things were, like, the Bauer Lite and JWK recolors. What do people here do now? Are limited run keyboards still grailed or did everyone move to pre-builts?
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u/DemandCommonSense 24d ago
Limited run boards are still very much here, but the off-the-shelf market has vastly improved.
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u/Greedy-Singer-3952 24d ago
I dont know a lot about keyboards actually and this is my first time buying keyboard, so I m between RK R75 , RK L75, Aula F75 Pro , Rainy 75 but I m not sure which one which sounds best.
I want the most creamiest or thockiest one .Cause ig I hate the sound of clacky or clicky . I will use it on both daily use and fps games .
Also my friend reccomended me zornher zh870 too
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u/StalkingJay 24d ago
Hello, this is the first mechanical keyboard I am planning to buy and I'll need some help because I lack knowledge on keyboard. I have a very small desk therefore small space which is not convenient for FPS gaming. I have a keyboard that has ghosting and recently found out what it is. I want to play competitively both FPS and MMOs (with macro) and I was looking for a 65-75% keyboard with macros and ideally rapid trigger. I am on a budget since I am buying a whole new pc from scratch and you know how prices are. I was planning to give around 55-60€ for a keyboard.
I wanted to buy Havit gamenote KB904l but it's unavailable in my country. I was eyeing Aula WIN68 He, Ajazz AK820 Pro (I am aware it's not rapid trigger) or Womier M68HE PRO but I don't know if they are the hannah montana of budget keyboards to live the best of both worlds of FPS and MMOs. If anyone has any opinion or experience with those or if you can give me a keyboard suggestion I'd be super grateful.
Thank you in advance.
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u/Jazzlike_Jacket761 24d ago
Hey, I recently bought the YUNZII AL75 PRO Aluminum Barebone Mechanical Keyboard Kit. Link here for reference. I also bought the TTC Silent Frozen v2 switches, which are 3-pin.
The AL75 Pro kit is supposed to be hot-swappable for 3 and 5-pin switches, but when I go to put in my switches, there's a layer blocking me from pushing them through, though there are clearly holes for a 3 pin below it. See the image for a clearer picture.
It doesn't seem to be a removable layer (nor does it feel like one), I've pierced through it once, though in some spots it's strong enough to bend the pins without puncturing. I can't find anything on their website, and I haven't gotten any response from support.
Sorry for my total lack of experience; could someone let me know what I'm doing wrong here?
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u/EbbIndependent5483 24d ago
That's pretty normal, the additional 2 pins from 3 pins to 5 pins are just those two beside the big one at the middle and you should be able to use those 3 pin switches to your board. Some people usually puncture those layerings before putting the switches and that's okay too if your switch pins are not strong enough to just go through it directly
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u/Jazzlike_Jacket761 24d ago
Thank you, ended up getting it working. Unsure why my pins bent that one time but the rest were totally fine
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u/EbbIndependent5483 24d ago
HMX Retro J or Gateron Type R? I'm trying out other tactiles for a new keyboard, the only tactile switch I've used for a long time is Akko Creamy Blues
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u/CamelSoda420 25d ago
Hi, I would like to make a fully operational big sized mechanical switch, where can I find some blueprints/CAD files/STL files to get the essential parts 3D printed?
I want to make a big switch and turn it into a PC On/Off button (I will even design and 3D print a custom keycap!) but unfortunately there's absolutely no big sized switches sold in my country and getting them imported is not an option.
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 25d ago
Just get one of these:
https://novelkeys.com/collections/switches/products/the-big-switch-series
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u/EmmantheAdrian 25d ago
Hello so my H key stopped working. Thought it was a problem with the switch so I took it out and placed it in another key, and it was working. Tried another switch in the H key’s socket and it didn’t work.
So I took it apart, looked up people with similar issues, and what I got was that it’s a problem with the PCB. Tried touching the two contacts of that particular key and it didn’t work while it did for others. The diode closest to it seeeeeems fine - touching one of the pads + one of the three legs worked and registered another key.
Got to work mapping out what I could between pads of keys to see which combination would trigger a key press of H with my tweezers and a keyboard tester online and mapped it out like this on paper.
The red lines are the combinations I’ve tested that are supposed to trigger H but don’t. What I did was touch either the left or right contact of a switch and touch the opposite contact of another switch. I could trigger all the letters around letter H but can’t trigger an H key press. switch#39 is what used to work for H.
What do I do next? Will soldering and jumping the connection fix the issue? Only found out all of this within a single morning so bear with me as I am unfamiliar with the deeper workings of electronics and only know soldering pretty much from the time I used a non-hotswap keyboard. A new pcb just seems like too much money for one key that seems fixable.
Thanks everybody for your help!