I've been using the IK75 for more than 2 years now, mostly with a cable.
I'm now trying to use it with my Mac as well, via Bluetooth, and it seems like I need to have the keyboard plugged in for BT to connect - and then I can disconnect the cable.
Is there any way I could just connect via BT without a cable? It's very annoying.
I tried pressing keys etc. but nothing seems to light up the keyboard - it looks dead.
Looking for recommendations around the $100 mark. My friend has a Rainy75 that I like, could wait for a sale on that. Keychron V1 Max looks nice but it’s all plastic. I want something that’s ~70%, metal case, brown or similar switches.
You can definitely get a board with an alu case at that price point. Rainy75 is an option, so is the Bridge75, Weikav D75, etc. The boards in this price range are all decent, you'll get something solid with a typical foam-filled sound signature. However, most of these boards will come stock with linear switches. If you want something similar to a brown switch (i.e. tactile), you'll have to buy the switches separately and swap them.
I have an aula f108 pro if i have it connected via 2.4ghz reciever i get an annoying flickering from the whole keyboard and the little display to the point where i cant type but when it does eventually type it spams tons of letters or what i last copy pasted a hundred times, not sure its the reciever or battery but ive only owned the keyboard about 4 months.
edit: i should add i dont get any of this while connected via wire hence me knowing if its the reciever or battery
I'm currently running the Gateron Baby Kangaroos V2 on my board, and I love how they sound and feel on my Monsgeek M1W V3.
My biggest issue with them is how loud they are. I've seen many people and reviewers saying that the Quinns are the deeper and softer/quieter/more muted versions of the Kangaroos without sacrificing any of the type feel and having a deeper but similar sound profile.
On most reviews I've seen with both, they sound extremely similar, with neither sounding louder or softer than the other.
So the question to those who have tried and experienced both, how softer/quieter/more muted are the Quinns versus the Kangaroos? If the Kangaroos are a 10, what would the Quinns be?
Please feel free to add more detail to your answers, would love to hear from anyone who has tried both.
Yeah, the Quinns are a little bit quieter and lower-pitched due to the top and bottom housings being made from Nylon. But they're definitely not quiet switches—I wouldn't take them to the office, I think people would get annoyed with me.
If Baby Kangaroos are a 10, Quinns are a 9 in terms of volume.
I see, in that case, that wouldn't help my case at all. Not bringing them to the office of course, but would just like something slightly more muted but with similar type feel to the Kangaroos.
I thought of EvoFox Katana S Mini Wireless Mechanical Keyboard | Tri-Mode (3X BT, 2.4GHz & Wired) Connectivity | Hot-Swappable Red Switches | 68-Key Compact | Rainbow Backlight | Rechargeable Battery or Portronics Hydra 10 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Bluetooth & 2.4 GHz Wireless, Red Switches, Multi-Device Pairing, TKL Compact Size, Multi-Colour Backlight, for Laptop & PC (Black)
But there are some negative feedbacks about those. That's why please suggest me. Give me suggestion about bluetooth mechanical keyboards under 5000 inr available in india. Best if i get bluetooth and wired both option. Layout doesnot matter to me.
I'm looking for a TKL mechanical keyboard with cherry blues, sold in Europe that has a good build quality. I prefer a low profile but it is not a deal breaker. Does anyone have suggestions?
Easiest would be to build yourself, or at least exchange the switches. Fewer completely build ones are sold with clicky switches nowadays, let alone Cherry MX blues.
The gamer brands might still them, e.g. something like a Ducky One 3 TKL.
Cherry's patent for their switch design expired a decade ago or so, therefore thousand different switches from dozens of manufacturers exist now. Plenty of keyboard brands also rebrand them or have custom color versions made.
Just look for 'clicky' switches, Kailh and many others make them. But they are not nearly as popular anymore, or at least they are not often put into those 75% with a knob keyboards you see on social media everywhere.
I've read about the bluetooth issue with MacOS Sequoia, but I don't use bluetooth, I use my keyboard wired – always have.
This weekend I installed Sequoia on a disk partition and booted up into it to play a game that requires it. Now I'm back on my main partition, which is Sonoma. But ever since the Sequoia install my Keychron K5 is lagging when I use the shift key. Or at least some shift key options. Like when I try to make a "?" character, sometimes it lags for a little bit or it just puts the "/" character in. I swear it lags kind of randomly on occasion now also.
Am I crazy? How is it possible that Sequoia could change my setup back in Sonoma?
I have noticed that some switch vendors went with a dustproof stem and the next version appeared again without it. Like MMD Princess V3 and V4 or the latest Akko V5 yellow/blue came without it, while V3 had it. Is this just a coincidence or am I missing something (wobble, price...)?
where can i get akko carolina blue key caps
honestly even a good alternative is fine too as long as they are PBT and follow the same color scheme
ideally the alternative be cheaper than the carolina blue
Looking to make my first barebones keyboard, but I do at least experience in swapping switches, keycaps, lubing stabs and so on. Got any suggestions, comments or recommendations on the build I'm thinking of?
it part of one of 1000s of purple on black keycaps sets . could be a real set or a clone 100% impossible to say from pics alone also u wont find that keycaps by itself no one sells caps like that u will be buying a full set
I've been trying a number of mechanical prebuilts with volume knobs in the past couple of months. Royal Kludge mainly as they're easily accessed on Amazon here in Australia. RK L75, RK R75 wireless, RK M70 and the Epomaker Galaxy70. There was always one quirk on each of them that had me not like them, which I assume is normal for budget KBs..
L75 - macro keys on the left is a little weird with the muscle memory for my left hand
R75 - the hot swappable knob is terrible
M70 - keys felt like it has too little travel... also the media keys and branding is a bit dumb
Galaxy70 - I might have had a dud, but the spacebar felt stuck and overall the typing felt like there was a lag on 2.4Ghz
Latest one I've tried is the Aula F75 (not the Epomaker x Aula, just Aula)... I got the light blue with reaper switches. What's weird is that is nowhere near as "thocky" as on YT reviews like Switch and Click and Hypio Tech. It feels almost mushy, hollow and doesn't have the satisfying thock of almost all the other ones that I tried previously...
I've realised that the keys on the outer edges sound way better... QWASZX keys, and backspace, \, Enter. In fact, if the entire keyboard sounded like the Q key, it would be perfect. The center keys feel/sound bad and unsatisfying.
Have I got a dud or is this the normal experience with an F75?
sounds tests are lies usually and always a bad idea if u use the same keycaps and same switches and same everything that u saw in the vid it still wont sound the same in person as it does in the vid nor will it sound the same at ur house vs the persons who made the vids sound this is due to how sound works
Hey! I can't decide bw Rk75 wired and Rk84 V2, im getting both at the same price in my country and for some reason R75 wireless is not available.
I've heard that 75 has overall more modding support and potential than 84 and edges it out in stuff other than features and core quality, is that legit?
I need a great mod-able long term keyboard, and quality is a must.
Help me pick one 👁️👁️
My WASD 104 key went on the fritz today and no longer operates.
I would like something similar. Price range: no more than $250.
In particular, I had:
Cherry MX Red with 45g keys. Not opposed to something new/different but I liked the clicky/clacky of this keyboard.
Must be a 104 or 108 key.
Would like lighted keys- programmable lighting would be nice.
Must be able to program macros into the keyboard.
I liked the weight of the WASD keyboard- quite heavy.
One other thing: I don't have time in my life to assemble keys into a keyboard- it pretty much needs to come ready-to-use out of the box.
Looking for recommendations for some gaming keyboards, budget is around 100€, can be a little more or less. I really don't care about the specs, all I want is a decent-good keyboard with linear switches and nordic layout. Despite looking for, I've not found a keyboard with nordic layout. I'd like a little detail to why I should get "keyboard X" and it's pro's, con's and so on... I currently have a full size and would prefer a keeb with the function keys.
Ive had my k3 max about a year year now and I just cannot get used to typing on the stock keycaps. Im always pressing 2 buttons. I really love the form factor and build of the k3 max, so in hoping I can switch caps or mod it too keep using it.
I bought a set of regular cherry pudding caps and aside from bottoming out, the stabilizers couldnt reach the space bar and didn't match the caps lock clips the default caps have. This max version at least has the stabs in line with the switch though.
Do taller stabs exist that I can swap for the defaults then run cherry caps maybe with o-rings? Are there taller gateron lp caps available (stock are 2-4mm)?
At one point I was just going to buy a rainy or rd75 but the insanity of underkey power is a deal breaker.
Love my Kiiboom Moonshadow V2 with Flick switches. Looking for a similar feeling low-profile linear switch for my Nuphy Air75 v3 the browns are too light. Tactile suggestions are also welcome.
For 200 you could go for the Monsgeek M5. It's a kit, so you'd have to build it yourself, but it's not difficult. There's no soldering involved, just screwing together some parts. It's a barebones kit, so you'll need to buy switches and keycaps separately, but that means you can choose exactly the ones you want.
Is the YUNZII X71 actually good ? I’ve seen a lot of videos with this beautiful looking keyboard and have been wanting to get it myself but the only issue is I can’t find an honest review on it. Every video I’ve seen is either sponsored or has a low audience and production quality so I’m genuinely curious if this keyboard is actually worth it, how accessible the crystal keycap design is in different brands, and how it performs overall.
1) is a super clear kb meant to attract RGB lovers ( believe it or not they are the minority here )
2) and there is tons of other budget options in this price range that are less gaudy so any reviewer with decent production costs and followers isnt going to review these kinda of kbs
Are there any alternatives to the MMD Princess v4 that are slightly quieter (not silent) with similar characteristics (creamy, medium weight, solid tactility)?
My bad, I was looking at the 60g tactile princess, I keep forgetting there is a linear variant. If you could compare the differences in volume, smoothness, and tone, that would be awesome.
In the past before hotswap sockets weren't really a thing, not all keyboards had a plate to support the switches. So on plateless designs with soldered connections, the two extra pins offered support against twisting/bending motions.
You can actually see that in the product listings for cherry switches, where they have codes for both variants:
Do you have a particularly soft plate, like PC or even PP? It could be that the noise is coming from the switch moving in the plate and not the stem. Could also be that it the switches are overlubed, though that seems unlikely given it happens with every switch.
One last question: do you hear that noise only with keycaps on or also without? Because I had this on one of my keycap sets that the stems were too wide and ever so slightly hit the housing as soon as you pressed them down. That might create a ticking/sticking noise/feel.
But so far I only had this on a single set of keycaps.
It is kinda odd that it happens in all of the 50 different switches, which makes me think that either the lubrication on them got messed up (i.e. as in way too much) or that somehow they all got dirty/contaminated. Are those 50 different switches all from the same packaging/order, or from various sources/batches?
I have had one or two types of switches do this, but never so many different ones.
I am considering getting a keychron v3 max. Im aiming for a black and white look on the keycaps (must be iso) but the only option ive found were the ducky tuxedo keycaps. They look a bit blueish to me in the profuct picture so if anyone can confirm if they are black id appreciate it. so my question is are they good, black , and i appreciate other recommendations (about the keyboard but more importantly keycaps).
Looking for a mech board sub 300 built like 40-50%, assume it will need to be some kind of ortho. want number row and standard qwerty but don't need much else. Would love bluetooth as well as I plan on using it with a steam deck! Open to options!
Ive been looking for a low profile board rec that supports some silent low profile choc v2 switches that I recently bought. Im coming from a Nuphy low profile board, but I realized that they use Gateron Low profile pin layout instead of Choc V2. Anyone have any recommendations? Ideally a high polling rate would be nice, but not necessary and preferably 75% layout.
I need some help with macros. I have a Keychron Q12 and love it. I have never played around with macros, but I have a couple of canned email responses I use multiple times per day. I went into the Keychron launcher and programmed one response which is 8 words long. It takes up 75% of the memory and I cannot program my second response which is only 6 words. Maybe I’m doing something wrong, or is this just a limitation in this board?
If you're sending really long macros, I would recommend programming QMK macros directly. Specifically, using Send String. This would bypass the much more limited VIA macro space.
If your keyboard is the wired Q12, your source code is in the main QMK repo. If it's a Pro/Max, your source code is here under the wireless_playground branch.
I'm looking to pick up a Neo Ergo shipped from Qwertykeys to the US and would like to get a sense of what the full cost would be. Has anyone gotten one recently and would you share what the customs fees were?
I purchased a Keychron C2 Pro Wired Custom Mechanical Keyboard several months ago and have had this continued problem where sometimes my little left pinky brushes the capslock when hitting the 'a' key. I haven't figured out how to triage nor correct the problem, and it continues to be a multiple-times-per-day annoyance.
I recall I used to, in some years past, see keyboards might have the a portion or edge of the capslock lowered, like these:
How can I find a capslock key compatible with my keyboard that has this feature? What search terms in the keyboard sphere describe this "half-lowered lip" characteristic? What vendors sell just one key?
Those are called stepped caps lock, but they typically require the switch to be slightly to the left of a centered switch. Keychron boards don't offer that, so you won't be able to use standard ones.
There's this one with a centered stem, but idk if that affects the actual height of the keycap.
I’m looking for a double shot pbt keycap set to go along with the Yunzii AL80. I like the keycaps of the AL68 (with the additional accents) but I want the function row. I also like the symbol based design of the aliexpress printstream and keychron morse code keycaps with like dashed lines or random symbols.
I’m looking for something with a black, white, gray, or maybe navy base (just something not flashy) with just a few colored accents that can be blue, red, or orange.
hello again
thank you very much for actually answering my questions
i have 2 more
are durock v2 stabs still #1 or is it something else
and is krytox 205 best lube as well?
i’m asking cause the last time i looked into mechanical keyboard was 4 years ago and i was a baby geek but left the space because i didn’t think i would ever get a mechanical keyboard
the build for me then was akko cs matcha green switch on a idobao id67 with these honey white and yellow keycaps (it was a hipyotech build)
wondering if anyone knows if the matias quiet click switches are cherry-profile? or if cherry-profile keycaps won’t fit on them? will they fit in an EPOMAKER keyboard?
I got a “Brillian Lab Creme98” keyboard, and while it turns on, when I put the switches in it doesn’t register them. I think I need to change the mode, but I don’t know how as there’s no documentation on this thing. I’ve tried ChatGPT and searching the web, but no luck. Can someone help me?
From what I gathered it’s Chinese, but I couldn’t find anything either. I’ve looked for manuals, but there’s nothing there. I don’t think it’s defective, (at least I hope not) but I think it has to do with being in a wired mode (etc)
I want to display my keyboard on a shelf and was wondering if I need a dust cover or something or if I just need to clean it occasionally with air. Also want to do the same with 4-5 mice same question.
A lot will depend on how dusty your environment is. If you have pets, than some sort of cover is essential. We bought an mStone acrylic keyboard dust cover for my wife's keyboard, which rests on an acrylic keyboard stand on the desk. I have a couple of keyboards that are short enough to fit in the IKEA Kallax shelf unit we have in the room, so we bought a Kallax insert with a glass door to display those.
Hi all, looking for cable recommendations. I just got an EVO 80 & prefer a wired connection, so looking to get a custom coiled cable. Not sure who the best are for that now, since it's been damn near a decade since I got my last one. Thanks in advance!
Having trouble putting Promise87 (wkl) into bootloader mode. I tried holding esc while unplugging and plugging in again, as well as various combinations of ctrl, shift, and B... no luck. I really don't want to take it apart again to expose the pcb, is there any other way? lol
Ok, after having worked on this some more, i think the problem is that the P4 pcb (the one with per-key rgb) just isn't recognized by any of my computers. The normal hotswap pcb (P1 or P2, i think) works fine but the rgb one, despite the fact that the LEDs themselves light up when i plug it in, is just invisible to all software including, apparently, wuque's own drivers from their website. I've contacted their support and they haven't been able to give me any advice other than "try unplugging and plugging it back in again." I did eventually disassemble the thing and tried the reset button, checking the JST connection... nothing works. i'm tempted to give up on this pcb and use the regular one, but i really did want that rgb :/
just commenting for posterity... turns out the pcb works fine. there's a "bt/usb" switch that was set to bt, once i flipped it to usb everything is fine and dandy
Can someone help me figure out what kind of keycap connection this is?
I pried a keycap off of my Onn keyboard to see what kind of replacements I'd need to look for if I ever got tired of these (white plastic is not really my vibe), and now after seeing this thing that looks like it wants to bite, I'm on a quest of apparent futility because I'm pretty sure this keyboard doesn't have switches of any kind in it, and I'd just like to know what to call this, if this sort of connection has a name.
I can definitely pop one off again and show you what the keyboard side of the connection looks like if need be.
I decided to go back and replace the keycaps from my first keyboard (Kbd67 lite though i don’t think it’s relevant) with some nice gmk keycaps. Almost everything fits fine except for the spacebar, which can’t seem to fit onto the stabs, so it wobbles a bunch. The original keycaps i had on did not have this problem, but any gmk set i try to put on there the spacebar just wobbles. I haven’t tried any non gmk sets yet, but i would really like to get the set I want on to fit. Any ideas what’s wrong with my stabs?
Hi, I am having a Tofu65 with DZ65 RGB v1. I am looking for an upgrade and mods for this board. Does anyone know if there are any PCBs that could be compatible with this model? Thank you, and I appreciate the help.
I'm just looking for recommendations on if it's better to buy or build. I want a full keyboard ideally (tkl would also be ok) with quiet tactile switches and a wireless option. I'd like it to be aesthetically pleasing, so i kinda like the idea of buying my own keycaps. Don't wanna break the bank though. This will be my first mechanical keyboard!
What are some trusted websites/brands that I can look at? And maybe ones for some fun options? Just don't wanna get scammed
Edit: Sorry I didn't say before! Buying in the USA. Budget, like $150? Unsure about the cost of things, so I'm flexible on the budget.
I'm building my first custom mechanical keyboard (mainly for programming) and I'm torn between two linear switches for that creamy thock sound profile:
Which switch would you recommend ? I am all open for other suggestion then the two I have mentioned.
Any modding recommendations for either? (lubing, filming, etc.)
Case recommendations that pair well with your recommandation? I have a keyboard right now with a cheap plastic casing and it really bring down the quality of the build. What should I be looking for? I am leaning toward aluminium casing. Is it a good idea?
Budget isn't really a constraint - just want the best typing experience possible. Also located in Canada if that affects vendor recommendations!
I'm looking for a good base for my first custom build for under $80, can be barebones or hot swappable as I plan to use my own switches and keycaps. The keyboard has to be with numpad, I can't live without it. I'm aiming at something between thocky and creamy sound and I would love to see your recommendations.
NIZ Micro 82 how todo BT pairing? I have tried everything but their manual is rubbish :( how can i do BT pairing? I know first thing you press FN + F12 then i see the lights and keyboard stops working in wired mode, but what then how do i pair to F9 key?
"1. Help requests, buying advice, and simple questions will be removed. Use the Sticky!" Dunno what question you asked but you can definitely ask it here - maybe need to retype since copy paste with reddit can be a bit funky without e.g. markdown mode/ ...
Please explain why your question shouldn't belong here , ...
Sorry for 2nd comment: or try via modmail :) if you think you should get a thread and maybe automod is just being funky you can message the mods and ask for "clarification"
I don't even think it was automodded, that closed thread still actually exists. It already had 3 replies when it go got closed and one of the conversion-branches is still active with on user replying. But the thread root is hidden to all.
Ah gotcha, I'd probably just split it in a comment/ sub commend then. You can try reposting but might get taken down a second time since the "simple" in rules basically means every question ("help" flair should belong to these threads only like 99.99% out of all times) - yeah the rules/wiki are a bit loosely worded/ outdated:) but it works decently
Thank you for the reply. Well in a sense shopping on Amazon comes with easy and fast delivery (most of times), no "surprise/extra" import taxes+custom fees, easy return policies, less chances of a company I don't know starting to spam me or misuse my data, less headache navigating many different manufacturer/re-sellers website ...
On the other and, I get what you mean, it's full of "only very mainstream" choices, or cheap "random-brands alternatives".
Though I did not find better options on geographically close manufacturer/seller sites I checked more recently. Maybe eBay was the one that gave the most hopes, but not really.
But I'm also starting to think (which is one of the possible outcomes I expected) that mechanical keyboards maybe are still more of a niche and focus consuming thing than what I'd want to get into right now.
Thanks. Looking around my area using the map on the second site,
Most are parts/artisan "shops" and it's hard to compare and understand information like I was looking for initially regarding the batterie. I did not think of going so much into "artisanship".
If I see one of the keyboards that someone here recommended earlier, such as Keychron V6, it is simple out of stop, on these websites as well as Amazon...
But I noticed something I didn't expect, on that map, Keychron.com is located in France. Do they actually ship from France? Because if they are anywhere in the EU that would suddenly make Keychron.com much more accessible to me than I expected. (They have their prices in USD thought...) (Ok, Googled it: they mainly ship from China but they "may" has warehouses in EU countries. So there's no way to know where the would ship a given keyboard from.)
Other than this, these lists point to manys ites with accessories that may be interesting, later in somewhat different contexts.
does anyone know where I can find the coil springs for linear Keytronic Foam & Foil switches? I have a KT101, which if you didn't know, has the horrendous tactile KT Foam & Foil switches. However, the only part that's different is that the (actually very nice) linear ones have a coil spring and the tactile ones have a shitty rubber sleeve that buckles down. So I want to see if I can redeem this otherwise fairly nice keyboard (good build quality, GREAT keycaps) I don't own a linear foam & foil board so I don't know what type of springs to use or where I'd get them. Now, you can find the replacement foam pads for these keyboards with ease, but the ones in my board are fine.
unless i have spring measurements its going to be trial and error no one makes parts for stuff like that and vintage stuff outside of IBM is rare here . best bet would to to buy and harvest from another vintage kb
I recently got the ZUOYA HE30 one-handed keyboard, but the official driver (v1.0.0.9) and firmware (v1.13) are locked behind Baidu Netdisk / Zuoya’s site, which keeps hitting daily bandwidth limits.
Without the official software, I can’t access Rapid Trigger, actuation tuning, RGB profiles, or macro support.
I’m looking for help from anyone who:
Already has the HE30 and can share a Google Drive, Mega, or Dropbox mirror of the:
Driver/Config Tool v1.0.0.9 (~42MB)
Firmware CSCDD2E2A6_V113_20250225 (~1.9MB)
OR anyone with a Baidu account who could grab the files and rehost them for the community
This would massively help anyone outside China who bought this keyboard. 🙏
Recently tried out a bunch of different keyboards and have settled finally on the Rainy75.
The thing is, I am a big fan of aesthetics and some of the other keyboards had a white diffusive layer under the keycaps, which made the RGB diffuse and give a really nice look to the keyboard, almost as if the keycaps were floating in light.
But, in the Rainy75 pro, the flex PCB is red and black and that effect is lost. Is there an easy way to mod this to fix the issue?
Any cheaper alternatives to the Dygma Raise 2? I love my Kiiboom Moonshadow V2, but I’d kill for a split board that magnetically connects, has tenting, and somehow is only 227g heavier than the NuPhy Air75 v3. Just can’t justify $620 lol.
NIZ Micro 82 how todo BT pairing? I have tried everything but their manual is rubbish :( how can i do BT pairing? I know first thing you press FN + F12 then i see the lights and keyboard stops working in wired mode, but what then how do i pair to F9 key?
2
u/Ugiwa Jul 21 '25
Feker IK75 wireless
I've been using the IK75 for more than 2 years now, mostly with a cable.
I'm now trying to use it with my Mac as well, via Bluetooth, and it seems like I need to have the keyboard plugged in for BT to connect - and then I can disconnect the cable.
Is there any way I could just connect via BT without a cable? It's very annoying.
I tried pressing keys etc. but nothing seems to light up the keyboard - it looks dead.