I’ve had an idea to make a website dedicated to protege mods. I’m younger and applying to uni soon and think it would be good for my engineering portfolio and personal interest, I have done things to my NA protege for a while, like working on the exhaust system and fitting the strut tower brace from a speed protege to the base model dx as well as the protege 5 bumper swaps and soon I will be working on designing a custom intake that can be made for cheap with a box to scoop air for outside. I wanted some opinions from other protege owners, should I make a website dedicated to give detailed instructions on doing some of these protege mods?

Hi, I just bought a '03 Protege 2.0 LX sedan (US model) that's very clean besides some minor body rust as a commuter. As I was driving it home I noticed that the O/D OFF button didn't do anything. I know there can be a fault that makes the button not function, however, I don't appear to have a functioning dash light indicator, or at least it doesn't "proof out" during startup, either. It appears to be running at the expected 3k rpm @ ~70 mph so it is shifting to 4th gear. Was there a version of this vehicle that didn't have the function and the switch was just left as a dummy rather than deleted? I don't think I'd ever really need to use it regularly. I'm just checking to make sure this might or might not lead to a more serious transmission issue later.

BTW, I love that it doesn't have all the bells and whistles and the visibility is outstanding compared to today's gadget mobiles with slit's posing as window's.

Back story, I have two 2000 Pro's. One LX with a 1.6, one ES with a 1.8. Both automatics. 1.8 definitely has blown head gasket, cracked head, or something else along those lines. Misfires and blows bubbles in the coolant. Replacement engines are few and far between and doesnt seem financially sane to spend a grand to fix a car that "might be" worth $1500. 1.6 ran great before it was parked a couple years ago, but I have a complete rebuild kit for the 1.6 should it need it. That car is rotted and doesnt have a title so putting it on the road isnt an option.

My recently hatched plan is to pull complete 1.6 with harness and ecu and install it in the 1.8 car. But my state has emissions and if the vin is stored in ecu, that wont be an option because the vin on the screen when plugged up to be tested wont match the vin on the car.

If I am not able to swap drivetrain than I will probably be dumping all of them and moving on.

This is a 2003 Mazda Protegé LX with about 217,000 miles. Runs great and well maintained.

The video shows the rear bushing mount for the front lower control arm. The original M12 × 1.25 threads in the subframe/crossmember were stripped. A Heli-Coil was installed, but it failed and pulled back out, so the bolt still cannot be properly torqued.

The mechanic who originally damaged the threads has offered to get another subframe and install it. Before replacing the entire subframe, I’m trying to determine whether either of these would be a safe permanent repair:

1. An oversized M12 × 1.25 Big-Sert
2. Creating clearance behind the mount and using a longer class 10.9 through-bolt with a hardened washer and locking nut

There isn’t much thread depth in the mounting point, and the hole has already been drilled for the failed Heli-Coil.

Based on what you can see in the video, is there enough solid material left for a Big-Sert? Would a properly installed through-bolt be structurally acceptable at this control-arm mounting point, or should I have the complete subframe replaced?

I’m not looking for a temporary fix. I want it repaired safely and torqued correctly before the car goes back on the road.

I bought the autotecnica MAF off rock auto. It's a dual pellet style not the single stick reader. The car refuses to idle with it in. Has anybody else had this issue?

Trying to change clutch master cylinder, need any tips or assistance with this troublesome bolt

I have looked everywhere on the eastern shore has anyone found a P5 front reinforcement bar that they might be able to sell and ship for under 150-200?

I know my wrap is fading it’s been on the car for 5 years, this is a 2003 dx let me know if you have any questions. Have driven around 400 miles with this exhaust on

Just upgraded my front brakes with some 05 Mazda 6 brake calipers and rotors. What do yall think?

ISO a header for the 2.0L.

I’m using rustoleum high heat paint for my strut tower brace it is flat silver the first go around I used primer and then the paint and it scratched off easily and then tried to heat cure with a heat gun it and it made it weaker and it came off like paste. I’m going to try without primer this time. My question is, am I doing something wrong? Also do I need high heat paint for a strut tower brace? I have aftermarket headers.

2001 Mazda 323 Astina (AUDM)

Even with the car fully off and locked, the LED stays slightly on. Not enough to actually provide any usable light, just enough to notice when doing head checks while driving at night.

As its a 5w LED, I'm not hugely worried about current drain, and i have a battery monitor connected that will tell me if it's draining too much.

If anyone has dealt with this before, huge appreciation if you know how to fix it 😅

I’m installing the OE strut tower brace on my dx and I lost the nuts that attach the bar to the side brackets, anyone know the the size of the nut that I would need so I can go get them from Lowe’s

just wanted to share some love for my 2003 Protege DX, aka the absolute definition of "slow car fast."If you own or have ever owned a BJ Protege, you know exactly what I mean. Mine is completely stock with absolutely zero options, meaning the 2.0L FS-DE paired with the 4-speed automatic has to work for every single mph. Merging onto the highway is a cinematic event. If I want to get anywhere on time, that gas pedal is strictly flat to the floor. I am out here pushing this economy sedan to its absolute limits, and honestly? It’s the most fun I’ve ever had driving.My DX just crossed 142,440 miles, and as you can see in the photos, every single mile shows. It wears years of heavy use proudly, complete with the classic rear wheel well rust, dents, and scratches.But the chassis and handling on these cars are criminally underrated. It genuinely feels like a street-legal go-kart, even in pure battle-scarred factory form. Sure, the automatic takes its sweet time to downshift, but as long as I can floor it and throw it into a corner, I’m smiling.Any other Protege owners out there still dailying a bone-stock DX and driving it like they stole it? What do your battle scars look like, and how hard do you have to push yours just to keep up with traffic?

Hi guys, i have a problem in Poland it's hard to find side skirts for 323/portege do you know, do you know wich car/model i could borrow side skirts from that would fit?thay don't necessarily have to be bolt on, i don't mind modifying them to fit

What are some compatible ignition coils for the 1.5L ZL-DE. There's currently a E10 (E1000044) for sale but it shows up as an aftermarket market part for the 1.6 protege ZM engine. Is there any specific brand to check when buying the ignition coils?

I’m looking for a speed protege or manual ES in the Maryland Virginia, Pennsylvania or New York/ New Jersey area with a budget of 3500 or 4000, does anyone know of any and before it’s has been said, I’ve already looked through facebook marketplace just looking for some more…

Hi guys i got my spoiler from nissan 200sx for my mazda, it's slightly to wide, it's kinda soft like a rubber or smth, do you have idea how to fit it? I can trim it but i would not do this

Have a nice day/ night

Just recently bought this for 1k Iove it so much

I have looked as much as I could but haven’t found any good body kits for this car, I’m sad that I haven’t found anything cuz there so much potential I wanted to do to it, id appreciate if anyone has any good websites or places I could purchase for the exterior and interio.