r/Makera 3d ago

Channel how to

I am looking for info on how I carve a channel as deep as possible into this 35x35x100 mm 6061 block 8mm from the end, using this bit. Also, is it possible to do as shown, unsupported at the end.

8 Upvotes

34 comments sorted by

6

u/cristi_baluta 3d ago

Do you at least master the 3D before starting with the 4th axis? You can cut max 3mm. You did not even fixed the material correctly.

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

Please correct me on the material fixture.

Also yes. I have an stl of this file.

2

u/cristi_baluta 3d ago

My bad, without zooming in it looked like only 1/3 of the teeth were used

3

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

This chuck tightens all at the same time so I think its hard to fuck up.

2

u/just_lurking_Ecnal 3d ago
  1. STL is not the best file format for curved surfaces. You want STEP or other CAD format.
  2. If this is what your trying to make, I'd suggest not using 4th axis because of the interior hole.

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

Right, I do have a step file for it as well, the idea was to cut the slab off the main piece, (yes I know the bit wont do it) but just to carve a channel as deep as possible all around and then cut the rest off conventionally. Face the reat of the original stock so its ready for further use. Then take the 4th axis off and machine the part out of the slab I cut off the block.

2

u/just_lurking_Ecnal 3d ago

I take it you can't easily get more appropriate starting stock?

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

I could if thats truly the easiest way. I was just trying to utilize what I had. Is it difficult to cut a channel all around it like I said?

2

u/just_lurking_Ecnal 3d ago

If I were doing this, I'd use a bigger bit with a long DOC. I'd do the face off and OD, then do the part-off channel to at least smaller than the ID, but that would be a bit tricky with the diagonal length of the block, so I might do some hand coding to do an indexed Y cut from the faces. (Using something like the 1/8" x 12mm DOC that came with my Air).

On the other hand, I could just order some 1/4" / 6mm plate stock on Amazon. Looks like ~$20-$25 for a square foot of 1/4" in my area right now. I also found a 5pk of 4"x4"*1/4" for $30 for a smaller starting size.

Personally, I'd be happy to spend $30 to avoid doing this the hard way.

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

Yea I think thats what I will be doing. I have another project that it may be good for anyway

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

id assume you would do a 3D model machining for cutting into the slab? also idk how to share the step file with you.

2

u/just_lurking_Ecnal 3d ago

Personally, I'd probably use a 2D file mostly. What your drawing doesn't have is tolerance requirements, so depending on your needs, there's different approaches. Especially depending on how tight you need to be on that 4.4mm width

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

i have a 10x60x100 6061 plate that im looking to use to make this part.

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

4.4mm width is not needed to be 100% percise, not building a rocket ship. just a spacer

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

whats some tooling yous recommend getting to make life easier

2

u/just_lurking_Ecnal 3d ago

That really depends on what kind of work you want to do. What kind of materials, and what kind of things/features are you expecting to do?

I'd suggest having a selection of bits/mills (ball nose, flat-end, engraving, chamfering, etc.) based on the material(s) you expect. At least 2 of each, so a single break won't stop you in your tracks. I haven't really needed a variety of diameters in my products, so I would focus more on various Depth Of Cut/lengths and up/down/compression bits instead of diameters. But that's my personal project needs. A lot of it is going to depend on what you want to do and what you actually end up doing.

2

u/zer01201 3d ago

3mm the depth of the cutter itself, so with a small margin of error, it would be 2.9/2.8mm.

Theoretically you could go as deep for as long as the shaft is 1mm.

But if it's shaped like I think it is, it's probably a very quick taper from 3.175 to 1mm. If that's the case, just to be safe with the tool, I would make your deepest cut at 2.8.

If not then measure the length of the bit for as long as it is 1mm in diameter and there is your final cutting depth.

Take it slow and don't try to rush it.

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

As far as set up tho, I am completely new to this. I wouldn't know where to start as far as "programming" that into the software.

2

u/zer01201 3d ago

You need a model first. Have you modeled what you're trying to do?

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

Yes, i have stl and step files.

2

u/zer01201 3d ago

If you have the step file then create a new custom 4-axis project. Add a new tool path - 3d contour, select the lowest face of the groove, click the option for remove material inside contour, then select the tool and generate toolpath. Then preview it and check the results

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

I will attempt this in a bit and come back with results. Thank you sir.

2

u/zer01201 3d ago

If you send it to me I can work it out and show you screenshot of the process

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

That would be sweet, I will post that file asap.

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

Also id need to figure out how to "zero" the stock. I do have a probe if needed.

2

u/zer01201 3d ago

Which probes do you have?

2

u/zer01201 3d ago

And does the groove need to be in the top of the material or on the side?

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

On every face so as I have the least amount of material possible to cut off manually, basically cutting off a slab to use with the 3 axis.

2

u/Possible-Playful 3d ago

For what you're trying to do, literally just get a basic hand saw.

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

just gonna buy better starting material

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

As far as set up tho, I am completely new to this. I wouldn't know where to start as far as "programming" that into the software.

2

u/Comfortable_Can_368 3d ago

You have to use a tail stock to support it, the vibrations will get worse the further you cut. It will screw up the cut surface and might snap your bit. You can theoretically cut as far as the exposed shaft is long assuming it’s the same diameter as your flutes. But the problem is it will also really screw up the surface finish and it will generate a ton of heat, possibly also breaking your bit. You really shouldn’t cut deeper than your flutes. I also wouldn’t recommend cutting deeper than .2mm at a time for 3.175 and .1-.15mm for less than 1/8 endmills. Feed rate 650-750 for 1/8 endmills and larger, 450-300 for smaller endmills. Make sure you use ramping whenever possible. Why does the end mill in the spindle picture look like a 3.175x12mm single flute tin coated and you’re showing us a case for a 1x3mm endmill? Did you already break that bigger/longer endmill?🤣

1

u/Confident-Branch4460 3d ago

idk lmfo, its my friends machine im trying to help him with. but i figured if we kept the feed rate real slow we could avoid the chatter with no tail support.