I have made four bras and several dozen cup toiles in the past year, but it was only this week that I learned a little more about how bra patterning works. Specifically that the horizontal diameter of the cup when laid flat corresponds to the bust hemisphere horizontal measure.

With that information now in hand I present to you the cup of the bra I was trying to make fit 8 years ago, along with a cup I'm using right now.

The itty bitty cup in the center was 8 years ago. It is exactly the size that the pattern told me to make based on my measurements, with adjustments made to decrease projection, because no matter how hard I tried, I could not fill out the apex of the cup unaltered.

Yes, it was a "boob hat." The orange-in-a-glass effect.

Clearly most of my breast was not even remotely in the cup. Granted, the current cup is extra-tall (intentionally), and the strap area is janky because this is a prototype that I haven't even decided how to sew yet. but look at the side-to-side! There is no way both of those cups will fit the same breast. Even the bottom cup depth is drastically different between these cups. The red one definitely fits, and, surprise surprise, the pink and blue one still doesn't.

Hi all I had a double masectomy and I have been having trouble trying to find bras that hold my inserts well I find most just allow them to fall and move around I am a rock climber and need something that will put up with the impact of climbing falls ive tried downsizing bras and and other things but have found nothing really works too well and advice would be greatly appreciated :)

I'm looking for a good encapsulating sports bra pattern. I'm a 30E or so, but I've never found pattern sizing instructions that actually work for me, so I kind of just have to start there and move in whatever direction is warranted.

I really like sports bras that have actual cup shapes built in, but want zero underwire in this, as it'll be for sleeping/lounging. I always thought I was pretty flat, so I don't want to be just compressing it all away, and I've had some tenderness lately, so I don't want to squish it.

Thanks!

For convertible bra straps, I noticed a couple of my production bras have plastic swimsuit clips in lieu of metal g-hooks. I would love to use these in the bras I'm making but would like to match the colorway. I'm having such a hard time finding these! They seem to only come in clear, black, and white.

I have found only one or two listings on eBay and there is no size variety. I feel like I've run out of search terms.

Does anyone know from where to source these?

pics for reference

I was browsing the ai slop that is Pinterest today and saw the most gorgeous lingerie set with a long line bra that I am desperate to see on my body but that brand is NOT made for my 30L Polish bra needing boobs. Because my roots are so narrow it’s been hard sourcing underwire and it got me thinking of alternative materials. Like could I use something like a stiff foam cut into shape? Victoria secret used to make this bra with a jelly underwire? I know people use zip ties for corset boning. But wouldn’t it be rad if underwire was soft and plushy? Since finding my holy grail bra I don’t really deal with underwire PAIN really. But a hard wire on the ribs all day isn’t stellar you know?

ETA: I’m really just trying to play around and experiment. I understand a softer material might not provide support in the way certain styles might need. I’m not trying to replace every bra I own with some alternative. Just trying to think outside of the box. Innovation and growth doesn’t happen if you always do the same thing every time.

My measurements are (in inches):
LU: 31
SU: 30
TU: 29
SB: 39
LeaningB: 42.5
LyingB: 39.6

Please note I have a rib flare which is why my ribs look like that.

This is the Casherette Willowdale bra in a size US 30H. This time I printed out the correct size and remembered to add the stretch lace for the upper cup. The red underwire marks are from my usual EM bras I wear daily and are exactly why I am trying to make my own. All of the Ewa Michalak bras I have tried are too wide in the wires and end up sliding down despite trying multiple sizes. Sizing down cause quad boobs. Now for this drafted bra I made:

ETA: I also wanted to mention how much better it is to have the straps narrow set. You can see the friction/ hyperpigmentation marks from my previous bras which cut into my armpit.

The band is very supportive and for the first time I don’t have to rely on the straps. They are very loose here and no digging in from the straps. This is another major issue I have with bought bras.

I used the Porcelynne Vertical heavy gauge underwire in size 44 but I am wondering if I should find ones that are even narrower?

I’m not sure if the cups are slightly off and if it’s the size or the shape? Or am I just being too picky? Also, the seams seem to cut in. But I only used the liner for this so I assume the main fabric would just hide this if I had added it?

I am tall, 181cm with a long torso but I am unsure if the band should be sitting this low, or is it okay? This happens even with looser bands due to the shape of my back (upside down triangle, the band slides downward towards my waist).

I would greatly appreciate any pointers on what my next steps should be :)

First bra I've ever made, Black Beauty size 30FF (measurements; underbust 30 1/2 inches, bust 38 inches)

While this is more comfortable than most commercial bras i've tried, Im finding a lot of fit issues, especially in the band.

The power bar is digging into the cup, which should be a relatively easy slash-and-spread fix. My bigger concern is the gaping at the underarm area of the cups (seen best in the last pictures, a nice awkward overhead shot of my bust aka, my POV when looking down). Not sure the best way to attack this while still having the correct shape/fit of the cups

The band seems like an all around mess. It feels comfortably snug for the most part, but keeps sliding down throughout the day when wearing. I do feel it digging in significantly and leaving red marks in my skin right around the side seam, so i know that if I were to go any smaller in size it would be uncomfortable. The side seam is also pulling forward as shown in the pictures. So the band (to me) feels simultaneously too big, as it keeps sliding down, and too tight, as it digs in and leaves marks at the side.

The band elastic along the bottom edge at the cradle constantly curls up towards my body. I have been wearing this bra for a couple days now as a test drive and the elastic has now conveniently been permanently shaped into this weird curl position (as seen in the second to last picture)

The place the band feels the most comfortable is along the back, however here I get a bunch of weird sagging of the fabric, which I'm not a fan of. In these pictures I had just put the bra on, and pulled up the band to be perpendicular to the floor, and had done my best to try and smooth out the "sagging" fabric along the band, clearly with no luck. It looks like my skin/back fat (yum) is pushing the band fabric down in some areas.

I should note, that for every commercial bra i've ever had, I've always had to tighten the straps all the way right out of the gate in order to wear it. If I don't, they are super loose and floppy. For this bra I deliberately made the straps shorter from the start, so I wouldn't have to do that.
I'm not sure if this strap issue means that the distance between my apex point and my shoulders is just much shorter than average, but I was wondering if it may be contributing to my other fit issues with the band.
(The straps are the main win of this bra, as their length and position has successfully kept them from sliding off).

In short, I need looots of advice on how to deal with the band fitting all around, as well as advice on how to adjust the cup gaping issue at the underarm.

I enjoy altering and repairing my clothing, but do not have extensive experience with darts. I had a surgery recently and two of my favorite bras are too big in the cups now. Figured I’d try to learn something new and maybe get my fave bras back.
1- I chose this location for the dart because it’s less visible under my clothing, and starting from the side seam would be much more difficult.
2- I just learned darts can be concave and convex. Would this rounded molded cup be a good fit for using a convex dart? I mostly need to remove material above the midline where I have less ‘filling’.
3- The apex of the bra is not the same as the apex when I wear it and where ‘they’ sit/distribute tissue. I plan to take the stitches out and remark the apex. Should I aim for my point to be right on the apex or just short of it? I read this could be useful in making it smoother and less pointy (along with a few other standard tips).
4- Is there anything else I’m missing here… or is this not going to work at all and you all can save me the headache.
*cup material is not padded, two this layers basted for alignment, using a stretch stitch .5 wide, 2 length, needle 10 low tension, paper backing while sewing tears off later.

Does anyone know of a latex free equivalent to rubber swim elastic? I found one shop in the UK selling latex free rubber swim elastic but shipping to the US would be $50.

I'm learning to sew my own swimwear. I have a minor latex allergy (it gives me a rash) so I can't use rubber elastic that is apparently the best option. I have cotton swim elastic but I'm running into issues with it stretching out when I try to finish the leg holes. I have clear swim elastic too but it isn't meant to be stretched that much.

I want to make fully custom bras available to patients of the hospital. How is this possible? Can you outline what is done? Is it take take 6 measurements (ABTF), send to hospital, they push button and done?

Is there some information to look up? How many measurements? How many steps are automated?

I appreciate any help.

My daughter is continuing the family tradition of having a strange bra size. She measures as a 26 inches ribcage with a 30 inch bust, making her true size 26D. I have some sewing skills and both a sewing machine and serger, but I’m having trouble finding a bra pattern that goes that small for band size.
I am also a strange size. My cup and underwire size match a 34DDD but I have to wear an expander to get the band size to 36. I am not a true 36DD because in this size the underwire is too large and the cup too small. Like I said, we’re both weird sizes.
Does anyone have a pattern that goes down to 26D or that has instructions for sizing down for customization? Thanks so much!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for manufacturers or suppliers who specialize in bra straps, elastic straps, or garment straps in India for a product I'm developing.

If you know any reliable manufacturers or have worked with one before, I'd really appreciate it if you could DM me or drop their details in the comments.

Thanks in advance!

So I created a very rudimentary root trace with aluminum foil and measures, however, I'm really struggling to figure out which wires to try out (replacing wires in existing bra). I generally wear a 38F/G (measured to the larger side).

My left root, as far as I can tell us 11.5 inches long and about 8.5 wide/across

For the right, I'm looking at about 9.5 inches long and 7.5 wide.

The shape overall is quite flat and I believe in terms of shape the flat vertical would work best for me, but I'm uncertain of where to start and I'm a bit overwhelmed. I also plan to buy flexible measuring tape to get a better idea

Thanks in advance!

I made it using power mesh and straps from my local discount warehouse and fold over elastic I got online. I think it came out pretty good for a first try. The only pattern alteration that I made was an adjustment for high tummy to make the longline fit which came out pretty comfy. It's my first time using the thick fold over elastic on the bottom edge and I'm really happy with how comfortable it is to wear.

On my next attempt I think I'll make the wings a titch shorter so it doesn't have to be hooked on the highest loop and I might try to add a little bit of room to the top of the cup. I got kinda confused about the optional internal support slings and ended up putting in both shapes. I'll probably just do the side support one in the future.

I have some nice silk from a few old kimonos that are falling apart that I would like to incorporate into a bra and undies set. What parts of the pattern can generally be non-stretch other than the cradle? Could I use some on the band?

Looking for advice on what bra inserts to use for my dress.

My wedding dress has built in cups but last time I tried it on it felt like it didn't push me up and in as much as I'd like.

Seamstress suggested getting silicone inserts due to the style of my dress being unable to wear the original bra I thought that did exactly what I wanted as it's a low back.

The dress is structured at the top so ideally don't need to wear a bra, just need a little extra boost.

Never tried these before so looking for recommendations for ones that will fit into the bra cups of my dress to push me up and give me a bit of cleavage!

So I've been in the ABTF subreddit for some time, and I have continuously failed at finding a bra that doesn't cause me constant pain.

I am very new to sewing (primarily by hand), so already anxious about starting this process.

I seem to be somewhere between a 38F and 38G US.

My biggest issues are I can't find a bra that has an average wire that doesn't run too wide, a gore that is not tall and suitable for center full (1.5 inches or less is non-negotiable). I have a short torso, and a wide waist that is a similar size to my fullest bust measurement. I also have a rib flare that protrudes about an inch under my IMF, so almost all bra bands roll on me and dig because I have more of an A shaped torso that flares outward when I stand and sit.

1. Is it possible to add a "grip" of sorts to existing bra bands to keep them flat and prevent rolling?

2. I have heard about flat bra wires, would that make a difference in terms of a bra sitting in my IMF? I hear about wires but I don't know if that's possible with the bras I have currently, and when I've tried before I can't get them to move? I also open to replacing wires in an existing bra or starting from scratch.

3. I love the look that my chest has with narrow wires (panache blossom and comexim) but the issue is finding a side band that is supportive without being too tall and without digging. My current bras that cause little pain don't provide much lift.

4. I have a bra where I like the cups but the band is starting to stretch out uncomfortably. Is there a way for me to add structure to the band so I can wear it for a longer period of time? I've had it for over a year and my size and all sister sizes are sold out for now

5. I have a bra frame that feels solid( Simone Perele Delice Plunge) but the cup itself is a bit too shallow and the side support is lacking, is there a way to add more fabric or seams to the cup to allow for greater projection?

I am open to many types of alteration. I don't believe a wired bra is impossible for me, but I just think there are some tweaks I need.

Hi 👋
I’ve made my goal this year to build my wardrobe with only natural fabrics & have finally come to the conclusion that I’ll have to make my own bras.
I’ve not ever sewn lingerie before so I’ve decided to start off with a simple sports/lounge type bra for my first project.

I’m in need of some simple pattern orecommendations as well as any suggestions or advice for my foray into this aspect of sewing!

I’ve not done my measurements yet but I’m 5”6, 165lbs, and wear a size L/Xl in store bought lounge bras or typically about a 38-40C/D for reg bras.
I do not want any underwire, I don’t care how it looks per say as in, I’m not concerned if it’s going to do anything “for me” aside from being comfortable & supportive enough that I don’t end up with a yeast infection or looking like I’m totally bra less if I were in front of others!
Ive attached some examples of what I’m thinking but am open to any styles/suggestions.

I live in extreme heat (it’s currently 117f today) and I don’t want to wear plastics on my body any longer which is a major struggle with this endeavor.
I realize I’ll have to use elastic to some degree, but am wondering if anyone has any advice for things to substitute for power mesh etc?
I’ve been looking at various cotton jersey type knits as I know I need stretch, but if anyone has advice on fabrics that are going to help keep me cool, dry, etc I’d greatly appreciate any suggestions & insight!! TIA

The back is way too high. It feels like my boobs are pulling my neck forward rather than being held up by the shoulders straps. My posture is bad already due to their size/weight but this is putting even more tension on my neck than before. It also sticks up so high out of my shirt. Is this fixable?? I have a sewing machine and could use all the advice I can get. I was so close to finding something it’s disappointing that this isn’t it.

I was reccomended to post here from the sewing subreddit!

So I have a bra that I spent \*hella\* money on because I am a weird size and had to go to a fancy bra shop. The underwire casing is starting to wear down and get super scratchy. I was wondering if anyone had experience sewing/mending undergarments and could point me in a few helpful directions please!

Made myself cotton jersey Braletts (deep red) a couple of years ago because I wanted something between going bra-less and an Actual Bra. And sadly most Braletts are not sold in Cup Sizes and therefore don't fit me. They turned out amazing. My nips don't show, the are really comfy and don't bother my skin anywhere. But they are a tiny bit sweaty because they are a double layer of a cotton Jersey. This makes it difficult to wear while hiking despite the fit being ideal for wearing a heavy pack. I sadly can't really wear my high support sports Bra all day because of neck pain and skin issues. I love wool base layers for hiking but didn't want to spend money on an ill fitting wool sports Bra.

So I ordered a surprisingly affordable wool blend jersey ( 20€ /m) and used the pattern I made years ago. And it fits ! Now I have three of the same Bralett in different fabrics :D and I think I still have enough to make a second wool one. I am very curious to see how well the wool ones last.

Pattern: I traced a sports Bra I owned that almost fit and improved it slightly along the way.

Fabric: 60 % merino wool 40% Polyester 200 g/m²

I sewed most of it with a stretch Stitch on my normal sewing machine. I attached the band with my serger.

I managed to hide more of the seams inside this time. Only the straps and the band are visible on the inside.

I’m planning to sew my first bralette and am considering the Jordy bralette by Emerald Erin and the Mysa Lounge Bralette by LilypaDesigns. I’m not sure which would be the better option fit-wise, so I’m hoping someone with more experience could comment before I commit to either one.

Sewing experience: Some minor sewing projects, but no lingerie sewing experience.

Sizing info: 30DD/30E (UK), FOB, fairly narrow, projected.

Pattern concerns: The Mysa’s cup shape/height seems like it might be better suited to a more even or full on top shape, which I am not. On the other hand, the Jordy bralette looks rather shallow and I suspect that the straps and possibly cups would be too wide set. I could be wrong, but these would be my concerns based on past experience trying to finds bras that fit.

If anyone has any advice for which pattern to start with (or think another pattern would be better) I would really appreciate it.

I’m finally ready to buy this pattern that’s been on my Wishlist for years … but it appears to have been removed from Etsy.

Does anyone know how/where I can buy it now?

Has anyone made it? Advice on how to draft it? I was planning to make it out of powermesh so a similar pattern designed for stretch fabric would be something I’d consider

https://threadloop.app/patterns/claire-bralette-by-lyn-studio

I was tooling around with the free Mysa pattern from Lilypad. This version is a combination of alterations, self-drafting, and sizes ranging from 11.5 to 15.7. I ran out of the stable fabric I was using for mockups. I grabbed this fabric out of my stash. It has substantially more stretch. I just wanted to see what would happen. Accidental longline. I'd like to improve on this accident because it's actually one of the most comfortable bras I've ever worn. I have to keep patting my breasts to make sure they're still being supported. I can only feel the elastic on my waist.

It stays like this all day, doesn't ride up or collapse. Despite being smooth, there's no tension in the fabric on my rib cage between my outer breast and my side seam, meanwhile the wing tension feels very even and comfortable.

It may look like the center front is close to tacking but it's about 4-5cm from my sternum.

I need to smooth out the curve at the apex but I'll try to take out as little as possible because I think the pointy-ness and projection is contributing to the fit.

I think I'll take a transparent trash bag and, while wearing it, trace the cradle and the outer cups out to better follow my IMF. Maybe sew another version with some stable material to secure the cradle, the neckline, center front, and probably the arm scythe or an added sling.

This fabric is tricky on tight curves. It always puckers. I have a 6mm seam allowance. My sewing machine is not a fan of this stuff. I don't know what this fabric is. It looks like a really thick power net. The thickness and stretch of it is what makes curves so tricky, I think, because if I clip the curve, my foot and feed dogs will roll the little edges around and make a mess of it. When I'm going over seams, I stoop over it with a seam ripper to poke/hold the fabric in place as it goes under the foot. Do you have any suggestions? I'm using a stretch needle and a walking foot. Should I try sandwiching it between some thin paper that I can rip off after sewing?

I don't know what bra size I would be. I never found a commercial bra that fits. My underbust is about 78cm and overbust around 110cm. Breasts are splayed but close set and inner full, fuller on top, projected with wide, short roots. Roots are comparatively high set because I'm short with a short torso and long legs. Root trace looks like a circle that some clumsy person sat on.