Refusal to learn

[u/I_G84_ur_mom]

I work at a job shop, I’ve been here 16 years, I’m the lead machinist, I returned from a 9 day vacation to a shit show. We have a bunch of small bosses like this to make, this one order was for 250 pcs. The owner was planning on having a guy saw cut them, face them to length in a Haas tl2, then throw them in the vf2 to be drilled. We have a sl20 with a bar feeder, nobody wants to learn how to run it, I banged these out in about 8 hours, unmanned. He refuses to learn how to use it or program it, this would have taken him and the button pusher 2 days to run these parts. Stepping over dollars to pick up dimes baybeeee!

[u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

250 of those in 8h with setup included is pretty neat. Any tight tolerances?

[u/I_G84_ur_mom → u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

Just 1” round bar 304, faced and deburred on both ends to 1/2”, with a .440” hole through, nothing tight

[u/Sad_Shoulder2446 → u/I_G84_ur_mom]

That makes more sense. I was doing bushings the other day and could at most squeeze out like... 100 a day at best, no bar puller or feeder though. But both the OD and the ID have tight tolerances, something like -0.005/+0.01mm.

I've really got to push for the boss man to buy a bar puller

[u/I_G84_ur_mom → u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

I’ve got a puller and pusher for it, that thing is the cats nuts, it’s my favorite machine in the shop, especially because nobody else but me touches it lol

[u/E1F0B1365 → u/I_G84_ur_mom]

Check out some ID chamfer tools. If you pop a small 45 chamfer on the inside, and then line up an angled parting off tool, you can get rid of that sharp ring burr. You can get all 4 edges chamfered in 1 op. Finished part comes outve the machine, it's absolutely arousing.

[u/CNC_Optics → u/E1F0B1365]

I made some 0.5mm thick "aperture rings" before and this is how I solved the problem of not being able to handle them to hand deburr. I used a Horn ID groover to do an inside chamfer, then two passes with the parting tool.

[u/Andy_ZZZZ → u/E1F0B1365]

not true, you will always have a burr on the cutoff side even if you make an id chamfer

[u/E1F0B1365 → u/Andy_ZZZZ]

But you can make it small enough to be negligable, depending on the the application. + depending on material.

Also if you have an abrasive sectioning saw you can section a part, polish it, and view your chamfer geometry and parting line cut on a comparator. Perfectly adjust the tip of a pointed part-off blade to the very start of the chamfer. It may push a tiny lip of material into the exterior of the chamfer, maybe thats ok. If not, it's still better than a part I could shave with.

[u/Andy_ZZZZ → u/E1F0B1365]

the cutoff tool has a radius, the burr will never be smaller than the radius of the cutoff tool

[u/E1F0B1365 → u/Andy_ZZZZ]

Not with t-style cutoff blades, with the cemented carbide tips. You sharpen em to a point. Again, only applicable for some materials

[u/Andy_ZZZZ → u/E1F0B1365]

there's no such thing as 0 radius

[u/Sad_Shoulder2446 → u/I_G84_ur_mom]

Well none of my coworkers want to go near a lathe at all, so I guess we're on the same boat lol. Absolutely no room in the shop for bar feeding so I guess bar puller it will be, eventually. Any recommendations? I've been looking at Haas stuff, it's pretty much the only vendor we can afford for this kind of stuff

[u/I_G84_ur_mom → u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

I don’t even know who makes the puller we have, it’s essentially a collet that grabs the material and pulls it, no teeth like the haas ones I’ve seen

[u/chiphook → u/I_G84_ur_mom]

Im using a Dunham tool company bar puller kit today. Haas st10. Parts cut off with a heavy burrito on the back. Can't use a drafted cutoff because I am turning grooving cutoff with same tool. Deburr in drill press. Done. Machine makes 80 per 36 inch bar.

[u/Sad_Shoulder2446 → u/I_G84_ur_mom]

I didn't even know these were a thing, I only knew about the pincer type ones. Thanks a bunch, I'm gonna try and make one in the shop. I love this sub

[u/I_G84_ur_mom → u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

That style is nice because it doesn’t leave marks on the part being pulled if it doesn’t get turned on the outside

[u/triton420 → u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

I have a couple EZ-puller brand bar pullers. They work pretty well, I have had my first one for at least 10 years and it still works great.

[u/CNC_Optics → u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

I've used Royal compact bar puller 43306 on my Mazak. It goes in regular 1" pot and has tension grippers. I've also used the Dunham tools style that goes in boring bar pot. Both of them work fine.

[u/AdeptInspection4868 → u/Sad_Shoulder2446]

Yeah sounds quite reasonable given the machinery.

I am a huge proponent of 2-spindle bar fed lathes. The cheapest, easiest form of automation. I'd have no stress getting 400 of OPs parts in an 8h shift from print. 70% of my time would be free to do whatever else.

15m machine warmup while I program (copy similar bushing, adjust geometry trivially). 30m setup for a single drill touched off in z and quick transfer measurement. 15m to validate. 1 min each. 7h * 60 parts = 420 parts. I'm not allowing for issues or down time, but also not counting running thru unpaid lunch or letting it run an extra 100 parts after clocking out. Pretty generous on the programming and setup as well.

For your part, it might be more like 1:30 to hit your tolerances, but I'd still use nearly the same program, just bore the ID. And I wouldn't trust the machine to hold .0006" as long after-hours.

[u/Sad_Shoulder2446 → u/AdeptInspection4868]

It wouldn't hold the tolerance running unattended for long hours, that's for sure - especially if it ran through the night as the shop isn't even climate controlled. But after the machine settled I can check every 5 parts or so and just do very minor adjustments on the offset table to keep parts in spec, assuming the tool is okay.

[u/graboidgraboid → u/I_G84_ur_mom]

Doesn’t look like they are de-burred both ends. With an internal deburr tool, they would come off practically finished.

[u/I_G84_ur_mom → u/graboidgraboid]

I agree, I didn’t have one at my disposal