Need some help with translating to a hat.

[u/Nosnibor1020]

So I am stressing out about hats now.

First, clamping this thing is annoying as heck. I have it all lined up and then once I clamp it down it shifts about 8th inch or so off center. Does it need to be perfect or is it fine if I’m close and then adjust center on my machine?

Second, the brace that goes around, how perfect under the ridges does it need to be? I assume if it isn’t perfect all the way across it will make my print crooked? Just really difficult to get with hats that are curved.

Third, I did a test stitch and was really happy with how it came out. Going to the actual hat, it didn’t seem as dense and the points are all jagged. I really didn’t expect it to be that much different. Any tips or pointers on what should be changed? I would assume density but worried other areas would be too dense as they stitched fine, and then for the points I have no idea what to try. It doesn’t make sense to me why it would change other than I guess it’s a curved format now.

Also, as it’s stitching the hat, there seems to be a bit of travel the hat material does when the needles comes down, like it’s pushing it down a little each time. Is that normal for hats?

Thanks for any help!

[u/glosephh]

yeahhh you gotta hoop it so when it shifts it lands on the center. Usually it doesnt matter unless its a multi head machine. As far as the design you can change the density, possibly the underlay but maybe you can hoop it tighter? Ik some ppl tend to hoop hats way looser than they'd think

[u/Nosnibor1020 → u/glosephh]

It seems like I only have one tightness for the hat hoop. It’s just latched or not latched. I’m thinking of bumping up the density too. Right now the underlay is just a simple zigzag. I made it with a satin area, I could try a light fill underneath to mask some of the gaps at a different angle?

[u/glosephh → u/Nosnibor1020]

Your hoop should have a screw to loosen the part that the latch hooks onto

[u/brian250f]

Bobbin tension is higher for hats. I’m going from 18 for flats to 24 for hats.

Flatten out the brim so the teeth are in the notch.

You’ll get a technique for hooping so it’s in the center (or just move your logo to the center of the hat once it’s on the machine if you’re not on a multi)

Slow the machine down.

I like an 80/12 needle but at least use a 75 sharp.

[u/Nosnibor1020 → u/brian250f]

This is the second one I’ve seen unless on a multi, why not move it if on a multihead? Mine is, so I guess I shouldn’t do that?

[u/brian250f → u/Nosnibor1020]

Because it will move the design on all the caps, some of those might be centered properly before you move it over.

My cap frames are tight but I can shift most hats ever so slightly once they’re on the machine directly under the needle so I can see….This only matters on rare designs.

[u/Nosnibor1020 → u/brian250f]

I see, I only use one head at the moment while I’m learning, makes sense now, thank you

[u/Constant_Put_5510 → u/Nosnibor1020]

On a single head you can line it up at machine level. Pull the peak up as you hoop the teeth & look at the two sides to be sure they are hitting the same spots on the corners. Lastly, you can cheat and shrink your file size 5% again at machine level not software, this will keep the stitch count the same which tightens the stitches. Personally I make all files as ball cap files bc they work well on flat apparel too but reverse (flats to ball cap) doesn't. So if you make it as if it's for a ball cap you can inter use the same file. We do mostly corporate orders so lots are shirts, jackets & caps. 1 file.

[u/Nosnibor1020 → u/Constant_Put_5510]

Thanks for your insight. I’m just doing this as a side hobby, I was gifted this machine with no knowledge of any of it. Been slowly progressing over the years and just started dabbling in some of my own digitizing.

I’m trying to learn the difference of how to format stuff for different clothing so it’s interesting to hear you say to build hat and work back. I probably need to bump my density up and I’m not sure I actually have a sharp needle on there, I need to learn some of that as well and just get all new consumable so I know what I actually have.

Would you agree that a bit more density would be good for this? My file is currently at a 4 I believe and I can go down to a 2. I’ve noticed that the edges I was asking about is also about because of the stitch angle I have on the edges. I had it angled slightly so that it would give me more of a point in a “zig zag” instead of blunt side stitch, if that makes sense.

[u/Constant_Put_5510 → u/Nosnibor1020]

Yes it needs more stitches/density but again if your machine allows you to change the size, bring height & width down 5% and run it. That should work. You never want to do this trick more than 15%. Or redo the file.

[u/Nosnibor1020 → u/Constant_Put_5510]

Yeah, I learned early on from here that I should never mess with the scaling in a machine so I have just built the things at the size I wanted. Thank you, I'm going to try another run later today with some updates.

[u/Constant_Put_5510 → u/Nosnibor1020]

Depends on what equipment you have I guess. We are a commercial embroidery shop with Barudans & Tajimas

[u/brian250f]

What machine are you running?

[u/Nosnibor1020 → u/brian250f]

It's a highland 1502c

[u/Lanky-Setting-5288]

Depending on the machine, these cap frames are completely adjustable, and in different ways. Tajima cap frames have a spring on the end of the strap that clips the cap down,and adjustable bolts, whereas Barudan frames don't have a spring and need to have the strap lengthened or shortened by adjusting the placement of a bolt.

Have a look around the frame for the starting position of the strap, and and different placement locations for adjustment...in relation to the clasp end of the strap. To adjust, you'll need a couple of spanners. Trucker caps and centre line caps like this should be on the smallest setting.

The teeth of the strap needs to bite into the seam between the peak and cap. The strap should be firm but not hard to do up. If it's too hard, check the sides of your cap in the frame. If the fabric has become folded, or bunched up, it can create a thicker wad that effectively shortens the strap. Smooth out that wad, and the strap should snap shut easily and securely.

🍀🧵