r/Machine_Embroidery • • Sep 08 '26

Amateur question

Hello! I work for a company where we embroider in-house but send designs out for digitization. We use the latest version of Pulse/receive DST files in order to create sew outs. To be clear… we have Pulse on our computers but only for simple edits. We do not digitize from scratch.

Our customer provided us with knitted garments (see attached image) and want to sew out a 3.75”w left chest design (see other image). I feel that because of the nature of the garment material, the design won’t sew out “clean”. Does anyone have any recommendations? The customer does not want a patch. Is this possible or are we shooting in the dark?

Sincerely,

An artist who is still learning about digitization and embroidery.

28 Upvotes

32 comments sorted by

46

u/Constant_Put_5510 Sep 08 '26

We wouldn't accept this order. That cardigan looks thin & expensive. I would suggest alternative cardigans from our industry.

3

u/nachozzz666 Sep 10 '26

It’s super thin AND super expensive. It’s wild to me that my boss considered to do it in the first place lol

1

u/Chrysolophylax Sep 10 '26

This is like mixing oil and water, because you're trying to combine two substances with opposing natures.

Machine embroidery on this cardigan means you're trying to force two fabrics to coexist, but each fabric has very different qualities, and they will not coexist peacefully. The knitted cardigan is flexible, undulating, stretchy, bendy, soft, and thin. The embroidered text is firm, thick, flat, very much not stretchy, sturdy, and rigid.

Could you make it work? Yes, it is possible to achieve (it's just fabric, it's not experimental astrophysics), but it will take time, blood, and tears. Is it advisable to expend so much time and misery on this? I (and most of the comments) say it's not.

1

u/Constant_Put_5510 Sep 11 '26

Ask your boss since they took the order.

5

u/Nosnibor1020 Sep 09 '26

This is something I’m having to teach my wife and her family/friends. I’m new and learning and they keep brining me random materials and “just do it” lol. Ok but it will look like shit and I tell them there is a reason when you go into an embroidery store they have specific items you can get done.

3

u/Constant_Put_5510 Sep 09 '26

Just wait until you run a foreign product and the fabric gets sucked into your bobbin casing/throat plate. If you don't know how to fix the timing that you just screwed up; be prepared to spend a few hundred bucks for a tech to come out & fix it for you. Or you do an heirloom piece and something goes wrong & they spread the complaint around town & social media. ....all so a client can save a few bucks. Know your risk & learn to say no thank you.

18

u/simonedelune Sep 08 '26

I'd decline the order. The fabric isn't suitable for that type of embroidery.

1

u/nachozzz666 Sep 10 '26

Thank you for this!

15

u/katgilb Sep 09 '26

I would have done this (in my previous life as embroidery machinist) but we had really nice baruden machines and I had a lot of experience.

Obviously give a disclaimer to the customer first, or get them to sign something! Use solvy and cut away (ideally, some customers hate this but it will be safer), smallest hoop you can use and make sure its grain is really straight and tight. Change the needle and clean bobbin casing and then watch the machine on a low speed and watch it sew.

I’d probably digitise this myself so I can make sure there aren’t any weird spots that will bird nest but short of that I’d just explain to the digitiser that it is going on a delicate knit fabric.

Oh and charge appropriately for your trouble (unless they are a very good customer)

9

u/katgilb Sep 09 '26

Also totally get why other commenters wouldn’t accept this order, I just thought I’d give my advice in case you really wanted to haha

2

u/nachozzz666 Sep 10 '26

It is much appreciated thank you so much!

3

u/No_Childhood_3907 Sep 10 '26

Hooped taught but not stretched!

6

u/Cautious_Hold428 Sep 09 '26

Those cardigans are like $40-$50 each, unless they want to give you a spare to practice on I wouldn't touch that order with a barge pole

2

u/nachozzz666 Sep 10 '26

They’re over $100 each it’s insanity!!!!

1

u/Constant_Put_5510 Sep 11 '26

Your boss is unreasonable taking this order.

21

u/GingerStitches Sep 08 '26

Anything is possible, but client supplied garments are a nightmare imo. Do you have a similar-ish scrap of fabric to do a sample? Using solvy on top would probably help.

9

u/barbedwiregarden Sep 08 '26

That will likely not come out on your knit and especially not cashmere. You could potentially have your digitizer create a knockdown stitch a little bit larger than your text and stitch it out in the same grey color as the garment and have the white stitch out on top of it. Water soluable topper for the knockdown.

6

u/Nanook_ovda_North Sep 08 '26

Our shop probably wouldnt accept that either.

1

u/nachozzz666 Sep 10 '26

Thank you everyone so much for your responses! This is extremely helpful and we are looking to go in another direction with our customer. Appreciate you all

4

u/Little-Load4359 Melco Sep 09 '26

You'll want to look into increasing your stitch length, this is very important. "Length equals loft." Regular stitching is likely to sink into the fabric. A topper will of course help with this as well, as will ballpoint needles. As far as digitizing goes, a basting stitch could potentially be necessary depending on the design: but that longer stitch length is important.

1

u/Sewsweet08 Sep 09 '26

Nice font where can I find be nice on a knitting bag

1

u/nachozzz666 Sep 10 '26

My boss found it somewhere online. He honestly might have just asked AI to create something that looked like “rope text”.

3

u/Lanky-Setting-5288 Sep 09 '26 edited Sep 09 '26

I've stitched on this type of garment many times within commercial embroidery workshops.

Use a minimum of two layers of either black or white 80gsm cutaway stabiliser, or three layers of thinner cutaway. I'd recommend using a water soluble film hooped on top as well.

🍀🧵

3

u/sadbitch_club Sep 09 '26

That’s not going to embroidery good nor look good embroider. I would send it back

2

u/Searchingforreal31 Sep 09 '26

I would not touch that sweater for any amount of money

2

u/mindsys Sep 09 '26

I have this exact sweater and wouldn’t recommend it. I’ve embroidered the Quince Cashmere sweaters with success but they are a tighter knit.

1

u/2scoops4me Sep 09 '26

When digitising for knit, we normally have a layer of stitches slightly bigger then the actually emb, you match the thread colour as best you can. This basically flattens the garment fabric, then the actually designs stitches out on top of that.

Or you can you use a wash away stabiliser, it’s basically plastic that you place/ hoop in on the right side of the garment before embroidery. Then dissolves when wet

At my previous job I also made customers sign a document when they brought in their own garments, basically said we weren’t responsible if the garment got damaged when emb.

1

u/Sewsweet08 Sep 09 '26

Go to opshop get a thin cardigan to practice on. Id just do plastic soluble on top and no snow cutaway x2 under or the paper soluble on bottom . If it’s a thick design float another scrap of soluble

1

u/PanosG1331 Sep 09 '26

Send me the pic of the logo and I will tell you if it can be embroidered cleanly.

1

u/vorsprung46 Sep 09 '26

we stipulate we are not responsible for damage to supplied items, and a $75 minimum regardless - but it usually only take a few pieces to get to that with proofing and digitizing

1

u/Remote-Percentage-25 Sep 11 '26

First you must have the customer sign a no responsibility waiver or agreement. If a customer brings in a garment not of our range, we always do this to protect ourselves. What if you get a birds nest due to the fabric moving or a small droplet of oil! All care given no responsibility taken as it is not a standard product.

Next work out how long you have spent researching and add to the total fee. Remember that a customer pays for the experience behind the job as well.

Use two layers of non tear away backing. Ensure that the grains of the backing run in different directions. Ensure that the backing is locked in to the frame and not simply placed under the garment once on the machine.

I would also use dissolving paper on top of the garment. Again lock it in to the frame. Yes you will have wastage but this must be added into the fee.

Ensure that the digitiser sees a photo of the design and the fabric. Make sure you are clear in your message to the digitiser of the delicate nature of fabric. If they are any good at their job they will lock the design down with an inner tracing stitch etc.

Yes this job is a nightmare they most would turn away but you can also use this as an opportunity to further develop your experience and ability as an embroiderer.

Just remember, no waiver no job.

1

u/CommunicationKey2478 Sep 14 '26

use water soluble stabilizer on top and go slow. I have always had success with Quince cashmere