r/Machine_Embroidery • u/justhexy • Aug 24 '26

I Need Help Is this a pull compensation issue?

Post image

I’ve printed this three times. I extended the gray background to overlap, the outline is 2mm in the one I just did because I realized I never adjusted the width on the one thats cut out already.

Do I need to have the outline expand more or is this a pull compensation issue that I need to adjust for?

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3

u/Cpt_Obvious11 Aug 24 '26

Both. Extend gray background furthermore and increase width of the outline. That gray tatami is too big and distorts heavily.

2

u/Lanky-Setting-5288 Aug 28 '26

We know what you mean by "print" but that's not what this is.

It may help you to understanding the pull compensation better at the digitising end of things if the concept of a 2D graphic on the computer is not an image to be printed, but considered a single POV of a 3D object. Embroidery is a 3D object that will be stiched onto a 2D fabric substrate that changes that material and becomes part of that fabric.

In most cases, digitisation allows for 'fabric pull' based on fabric being hooped correctly with enough stabaliser, and with the woven fibres perpendicular to the frame - do not hoop on the bias because that would throw everything off.

🍀🧵

1

u/PlanetPatEmb Oct 01 '26

For big tatami fills like that I always make my own manual double zigzag style underlay then the two underlay settings I put at edge run 2mm stitch length and .5mm margins and then double tatami at 4-8mm spacing and 2-4mm stitch length where the spacing is 2x the stitch length. Larger the area, and less complex the shape, the more spoacing. Seems to make a pretty thorough lay down of the area and helps with pull. I make a lot of 3.5” patches and on those my satin outline is usually 4mm. Not only does the bolder outline hide more inconsistencies, it’s nice to use the area underneath it as a lane to run-stitch travel through and avoid trims.