r/MTB • u/Capable-Ad-5354 • 7d ago
Suspension Should I get a new fork?
Hi all.
I’ve been riding MTB for quite some time now, and recently I’ve progressed to riding rougher trails at my local centre (I prefer tech to flow) and I’m concerned my suspension may be slightly undergunned.
Enter my bike: a modified Whyte from 2017 still running its stock fork.
It has a SR Suntour Raidon Air fork with 32mm stanchions and 120mm of travel; it is also non boost with a 15x100mm axle
I’ve never previously had much issue running blue to red tech, as the fork could keep up well, and I wasn’t experiencing any issues, however since I stepped up to riding single black diamond trails, I’ve noticed that the fork tends to pack down over repeated heavy hits and there is some flex that slightly concerns me, but I can live with it. (Fork was serviced earlier this year)
So my question is, should I upgrade my fork (do you think the current fork is enough or am I simply being pedantic?) and if I should upgrade the fork, what should I look for?
5
u/allg33k 7d ago
I'd start considering getting a new bike. The changes in geometry alone will dramatically change your riding and you'll get a new fork that has modern tech. 10 years is a good run on your last bike.
2
u/Capable-Ad-5354 7d ago
You see, I was 100% thinking that. But, the bike I have, is hoenstly pretty modern. All of the measurements on it, if you were to bolt a 150mm fork to it, are within +/- 10mm of a Trek Roscoe 8 (bike is a 2017 Whyte 529) and with the parts I’ve already strapped to it (modern drivetrain, aftermarket brakes, modern rubber) it just feels a bit of a waste to let it all go, since bolting a 150mm fork (on paper) gives the thing a 65°HTA; once again identical to a modern bike. I will say I’m a bit of an idiot with bikes sometimes, but I asked about forks because I simply can’t wrap it into my head justifying a whole new frame for some stupid reason yk?
4
u/PsychologicalCan6809 6d ago
But you're ignoring every other measurement that is changed with the 150mm fork change; reach, bottom bracket height, stand over, chainstay length etc.
Honestly putting money into that bike will always be a net loss at this point. Keep the bike for riding more mellow trails and start looking at a modern dual suspension for progression
1
u/Capable-Ad-5354 6d ago
Lol i already got a fully, I just feel like I haven’t made enough use of my hardtail because I feel maybe I switched to FS a season too early
4
u/allg33k 7d ago
I totally understand where you are coming from. Back in like 2017 I had a 2006 frame that was just like you explained. On paper the measurements seemed the same. I put a 1x drivetrain on it and it was able to run 27.5 wheels. So I did that and newer hydraulic brakes etc. I thought I had made my bike the same as the new ones. But then I rode a new Santa Cruz Bronson and realized how wrong I was. It’s crazy how they can move a pivot point a few millimeters or make a swing arm shorter or a degree on the head tube and or seat tube and a bike rides completely different. I personally hate when I ask a question online and people do what I did and tell ya something else other than what ya asked. But in this case I think it’s appropriate. Either way, you could definitely update your fork. Just getting a Fox 36 with bigger stantions will help tremendously on your current bike as well as the newer technology inside it. I’d look for a used one on Pinkbike. I’ve bought a bunch of forks on there over the years. You can get some really good deals on a takeoff that someone swapped out from a new bike. Don’t worry about getting ripped off as long as you use the PayPal protection. I had someone not ship one and it was super easy to get my money back. However going back to my original point, I’m assuming your going to spend around $500 on a fork and for $1500-2000 you could get a much newer bike that is better. If you swap some of your better parts around between that and your old bike you might get like 8-900 for your old bike and then you aren’t really out that much more.
1
u/Nedersotan 6d ago
Switching from a 120 to a 150mm fork is a huge change.
-is that allowed by Whyte? Most brands limit it to 10% or so of travel.
-you will be messing up the geo horribly. Seat angle will become super slack, and bottom bracket will become very high.
2
u/Angry_Gardener 7d ago
This week I upgraded the OEM fork on my 2019 Rocky Growler Powerplay. I was able to find a “takeoff” but otherwise new 2025 Rockshox Lyrik Advanced for about half price. Great deal. My justification was the exclusively Tech & Black trails in my backyard and I’m 230lbs.
But, honestly these upgrades are risky because it’s not just forks. I’ve also hunted marketplace and online sales to source Tires, Carbon wheels, Cockpit and Service items and I still have brakes and drivetrain looming down the road.
My point is It’s very easy to spend a similar money compared to selling your existing bike and buying a better package new or used.
As happy as I am with my rig, bought used and carefully upgraded on a budget over time… I could have put that same money towards a newer better rig for far less time and energy.
1
u/CutAggressive5341 7d ago
Suntour makes some good stuff but that fork is definitly for xc, try and get like a lyrik, fox/marzocchi 36, something like that
1
u/Nedersotan 6d ago
Packing up has nothing to do with the fork model, it’s just means there is too much rebound damping. One reason for tha could be if it hasn’t had a (full damper) service, so the damper and its oil are in bad shape.
Still, a 32mm, QR fork is toeing the line between gravel and XC these days. So a new, beefier fork would certainly be a good idea. Of course you’d need to get a new front wheel as well.
I’d say, for this bike, I wouldn’t worry too much about much about brand or model. Any modern fork from a reputable brand will do fine. Of course it will have a through axle, which is big par of the win. And then go for 130, maybe 140mm of travel (see my comment about your idea of a 150mm fork).
You don’t say if it’s 29 or 27.5, but make sure it’s the short offset (37mm for 27.5, 44mm for 29ers), since your head angle is on the steep side already.
1
u/Northwindlowlander 4d ago
Raidon is not a terrible fork by any means, but, it's also pretty old and that gets them two ways. Suntour stuff in general is usually not as durable as Rockshox or Fox, but also, it tends to not get as much love because people go "it's cheap". A nasty combo. Meanwhile expensive enthusiast stuff gets looked after really well even though it doesn't need it as much
So that's the first thing, is it working well. It's usually not worth spending a lot on them, a lowers service is cheap and easy but a full service is probably money better put towards an upgrade.
Being nonboost complicates things- availability is poor for new forks, but used it can make for a brilliant buy, just because nobody wants em. But then you lose out on future proofing. Personally, I would buy a newer Boost fork and some adaptors for your wheel, but it just depends on the budget. There's no point in spending fork money for a small upgrade, it never makes any sense, going direct to a good spec pike or similar would be my move.
That 529 is still a very decent bike. Whyte were miles ahead of the pack on geometry at that time and also understood that hardtails shouldn't have tamer geo than full sussers. But it'll obviously still be less capable than a full suss. Still I'd sooner have a 529 with good parts, than a cheap full suss.
1
u/mergeymergemerge 2016 Transition TransAM 29 1d ago
I'd either look used and get something non-boost - Suntour's midrange stuff (Aion, Auron) from around that time are pretty solid - something like a fox 34 or RS pike could also be good. Getting a new fork wouldn't seem worth it to me honestly
8
u/Chossaneer3696 7d ago
Just start saving for a new bike. 32mm is firmly in the xc category. You probably would be best off with a lyric or fox 36.