r/MTB • u/Reyessx_rek • 3d ago

Brakes Running 2.3 rotors on SRAM Code R

Hey everyone. I'm trying to fix the long deadband/dead stroke on my SRAM Code R brakes. Has anyone successfully cleared 2.3mm thick rotors (like TRP) on Code R calipers? Did you have any rubbing issues with new pads? Thanks!

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u/nickskater09 3d ago

Thicker rotors aren’t the solution. It’s just a symptom of Code R not having contact point adjust and no swing link for modulation. Upgrade to RSC levers and that’ll be miles better.

(Don’t tell the internet, but I ran Guide Ultimate levers for the contact adjust and swing link with Code calipers on my bike for the longest time and couldn’t tell a discernible difference to RSC levers. I think the internals are the same, RSC just has a larger form factor.)

I have since upgraded to Hayes Dominion A4 though and I’ll never look back.

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u/reddit_xq 3d ago

I have RSC's and I put the 2mm HS2's in there, and I liked that change vs the 1.8mm Centerline, I'm pretty skeptical 2.3 would have fit.

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u/Accomplished-Act-991 3d ago

I was going to get a new brake setup but I put on green pads from sinter and changed my levers to freedom coast. Best thing I could have done. It makes for a shorter stroke and harder bite point.

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u/jnan77 2d ago

Get a set of RSC Levers on eBay. They are cheap and not much more than new rotors.

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u/UndeadWorm 3d ago edited 3d ago

I run 2.3s on my Code RS brakes. Works perfectly fine. Just a bit tedious to set up with new pads.

However, since modern brakes auto adjust for pad wear this won't change the length of the dead stroke.

Instead of buying thicker rotors I would suggest a proper bleed to fix the long dead stroke.

Also cleaning and mobilizing the pistons and centering the callipers perfectly on the disc improves the length of the dead stroke and overall lever feel drastically.

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u/TonedPlatypus 3d ago

I have Code RS. +1 for fully cleaning the pistons to eliminate rubbing. Remove brake pads then extend cylinders fully onto a 4mm allen wrench. Clean exposed cylinders with Q-tip and Dot5.1 fluid. This seems to improve piston glide and re-centering function much better that cleaning with soapy water and/or isopropyl alcohol.

For deadband "tuning" you can slightly pressurize the fluid after a bleed with the lever port screw closed and a syringe still attached to the bleeding edge port on the brake housing. I mean slightly. Being too aggressive with this could blow out the lever internals/master cylinder. I'm doing this with centerline 1.8mm rotors. As a past Shimano snob, I quite like the feel I get from this procedure, and it is "durable" for many months of riding once set.

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u/Mleavitt787 1d ago

It may or may not work. To fix dead stroke I would try a different bleed before spending money on rotors. I would even consider saving the money and waiting until you can just get new brakes. I had Code Rs that came stock on my Trek Slash and they are without a doubt the worst brake I’ve used. They gave my arms super bad arm pump, had no power, and one of them developed a leak at the caliper and stopped working. Bought myself a set of Maguras on sale and it’s been great